Bow Choice? Give me your opinion...
#31
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
ORIGINAL: Dairy King
Why are you changing your tiller so it doesnt hit?
Why are you changing your tiller so it doesnt hit?
Arrowman was the one that gave me the advice. Look at the above link to a previous post.
On a side note: Do you put moleskin on the grip? What is the advantage? Other then your hand staying firmly in place.
#32
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Roodhouse Illinois
On a side note: Do you put moleskin on the grip? What is the advantage? Other then your hand staying firmly in place.
#33
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
ORIGINAL: Dairy King
Are you talking to me, because of my signature? I have moleskin on my bow to quiet it down. Its underneath the string on the limbs, to quiet string slap, and around my rest, so before i got my WB it would keep my arrow from clangin.
On a side note: Do you put moleskin on the grip? What is the advantage? Other then your hand staying firmly in place.
So, do you have any pictures of the moleskin on your bow?
#34
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Roodhouse Illinois
So, do you have any pictures of the moleskin on your bow?
#35
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
Likes: 0
If you want to put your bow's tiller back to the factory settings, measure from the belly side of the limbs right where they join the riser out to the string. The factory setting is the same measurment on each end.
BUT, the factory setting may not be right for your shooting style. You adjust the tiller on your bow to accomodate your grip, so that both limbs work equally. Draw your bow slowly. If the bow pulls UP during the draw the top limb is too strong, and you need to take some tension off the top limb bolt. If the bow pulls DOWN, then the bottom limb is too strong and you need to take tension off of that limb bolt. You want the bow to remain dead steady in your hand as you draw straight back. That is the proper tiller setting for your shooting style with that particular bow. Result, it will be much easier to hold steady as you aim and it will help tame any recoil or 'shock' you may be experiencing. And it will improve the bow's consistency.
Also, my theory is that a bow will do exactly the same thing during the shot that it does on the draw. If a bow is pulling up during the draw, then that stronger limb will overpower the bottom limb during the shot and cause the bow to rock in the hand. Straight and level nock travel? No hope of it. If your form varies the slightest bit, then accuracy is out the window.
Getting both limbs to pull evenly will straighten out your nock travel and improve your bow's forgiveness. Possibly even get faster arrow speed as well, with more energy going from the bow to the arrow, rather than that energy being used up with one limb fighting the other. Doing like most guys nowadays and just cranking down both limb bolts down as far as they'll go... They'll never get the best performance or accuracy that their bows are capable of delivering.
Adjust your tiller to fit you and achieve a level launch attitude for the arrow. Then adjust your rest, nock height and nock/fletching alignment to eliminate rest contact. I believe that is what arrowman was trying to get across.
BUT, the factory setting may not be right for your shooting style. You adjust the tiller on your bow to accomodate your grip, so that both limbs work equally. Draw your bow slowly. If the bow pulls UP during the draw the top limb is too strong, and you need to take some tension off the top limb bolt. If the bow pulls DOWN, then the bottom limb is too strong and you need to take tension off of that limb bolt. You want the bow to remain dead steady in your hand as you draw straight back. That is the proper tiller setting for your shooting style with that particular bow. Result, it will be much easier to hold steady as you aim and it will help tame any recoil or 'shock' you may be experiencing. And it will improve the bow's consistency.
Also, my theory is that a bow will do exactly the same thing during the shot that it does on the draw. If a bow is pulling up during the draw, then that stronger limb will overpower the bottom limb during the shot and cause the bow to rock in the hand. Straight and level nock travel? No hope of it. If your form varies the slightest bit, then accuracy is out the window.
Getting both limbs to pull evenly will straighten out your nock travel and improve your bow's forgiveness. Possibly even get faster arrow speed as well, with more energy going from the bow to the arrow, rather than that energy being used up with one limb fighting the other. Doing like most guys nowadays and just cranking down both limb bolts down as far as they'll go... They'll never get the best performance or accuracy that their bows are capable of delivering.
Adjust your tiller to fit you and achieve a level launch attitude for the arrow. Then adjust your rest, nock height and nock/fletching alignment to eliminate rest contact. I believe that is what arrowman was trying to get across.
#36
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
ORIGINAL: Arthur P
If you want to put your bow's tiller back to the factory settings, measure from the belly side of the limbs right where they join the riser out to the string. The factory setting is the same measurment on each end.
BUT, the factory setting may not be right for your shooting style. You adjust the tiller on your bow to accomodate your grip, so that both limbs work equally. Draw your bow slowly. If the bow pulls UP during the draw the top limb is too strong, and you need to take some tension off the top limb bolt. If the bow pulls DOWN, then the bottom limb is too strong and you need to take tension off of that limb bolt. You want the bow to remain dead steady in your hand as you draw straight back. That is the proper tiller setting for your shooting style with that particular bow. Result, it will be much easier to hold steady as you aim and it will help tame any recoil or 'shock' you may be experiencing. And it will improve the bow's consistency.
Also, my theory is that a bow will do exactly the same thing during the shot that it does on the draw. If a bow is pulling up during the draw, then that stronger limb will overpower the bottom limb during the shot and cause the bow to rock in the hand. Straight and level nock travel? No hope of it. If your form varies the slightest bit, then accuracy is out the window.
Getting both limbs to pull evenly will straighten out your nock travel and improve your bow's forgiveness. Possibly even get faster arrow speed as well, with more energy going from the bow to the arrow, rather than that energy being used up with one limb fighting the other. Doing like most guys nowadays and just cranking down both limb bolts down as far as they'll go... They'll never get the best performance or accuracy that their bows are capable of delivering.
Adjust your tiller to fit you and achieve a level launch attitude for the arrow. Then adjust your rest, nock height and nock/fletching alignment to eliminate rest contact. I believe that is what arrowman was trying to get across.
If you want to put your bow's tiller back to the factory settings, measure from the belly side of the limbs right where they join the riser out to the string. The factory setting is the same measurment on each end.
BUT, the factory setting may not be right for your shooting style. You adjust the tiller on your bow to accomodate your grip, so that both limbs work equally. Draw your bow slowly. If the bow pulls UP during the draw the top limb is too strong, and you need to take some tension off the top limb bolt. If the bow pulls DOWN, then the bottom limb is too strong and you need to take tension off of that limb bolt. You want the bow to remain dead steady in your hand as you draw straight back. That is the proper tiller setting for your shooting style with that particular bow. Result, it will be much easier to hold steady as you aim and it will help tame any recoil or 'shock' you may be experiencing. And it will improve the bow's consistency.
Also, my theory is that a bow will do exactly the same thing during the shot that it does on the draw. If a bow is pulling up during the draw, then that stronger limb will overpower the bottom limb during the shot and cause the bow to rock in the hand. Straight and level nock travel? No hope of it. If your form varies the slightest bit, then accuracy is out the window.
Getting both limbs to pull evenly will straighten out your nock travel and improve your bow's forgiveness. Possibly even get faster arrow speed as well, with more energy going from the bow to the arrow, rather than that energy being used up with one limb fighting the other. Doing like most guys nowadays and just cranking down both limb bolts down as far as they'll go... They'll never get the best performance or accuracy that their bows are capable of delivering.
Adjust your tiller to fit you and achieve a level launch attitude for the arrow. Then adjust your rest, nock height and nock/fletching alignment to eliminate rest contact. I believe that is what arrowman was trying to get across.
This post has really helped me and it's my hope that it will help others in a similar position.
#37
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Yorkville, IL (Kendall County)
Mathews Ovation: 
Specifications
IBO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 300
AMO Rating
(FPS) (approx.) 230
Cam(s) Straightline OVHP Cam
Draw Weight 40, 50, 60, 70 lbs.
Draw Length 28-32 in. Half Sizes 28.5 - 31.5 in.
Note:The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%
Axle to Axle Length
(approx) 40 in.
Brace Height
(approx.) 8 in.
Riser Length 27 1/8 in.
Physical Weight
(approx.) 4.5 lbs.
Letoff (%) 80%, 65%
String/Cable Length String 106 1/4" Cable 41 7/8"
The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%, however, the 32" 80% is adjustable to 65%(31 1/2")
That is all the specs on the Ovation.

Specifications
IBO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 300
AMO Rating
(FPS) (approx.) 230
Cam(s) Straightline OVHP Cam
Draw Weight 40, 50, 60, 70 lbs.
Draw Length 28-32 in. Half Sizes 28.5 - 31.5 in.
Note:The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%
Axle to Axle Length
(approx) 40 in.
Brace Height
(approx.) 8 in.
Riser Length 27 1/8 in.
Physical Weight
(approx.) 4.5 lbs.
Letoff (%) 80%, 65%
String/Cable Length String 106 1/4" Cable 41 7/8"
The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%, however, the 32" 80% is adjustable to 65%(31 1/2")
That is all the specs on the Ovation.
#38
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
ORIGINAL: 3 Shot
Mathews Ovation:
Specifications
IBO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 300
AMO Rating
(FPS) (approx.) 230
Cam(s) Straightline OVHP Cam
Draw Weight 40, 50, 60, 70 lbs.
Draw Length 28-32 in. Half Sizes 28.5 - 31.5 in.
Note:The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%
Axle to Axle Length
(approx) 40 in.
Brace Height
(approx.) 8 in.
Riser Length 27 1/8 in.
Physical Weight
(approx.) 4.5 lbs.
Letoff (%) 80%, 65%
String/Cable Length String 106 1/4" Cable 41 7/8"
The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%, however, the 32" 80% is adjustable to 65%(31 1/2")
That is all the specs on the Ovation.
Mathews Ovation:

Specifications
IBO Rating (FPS) (approx.) 300
AMO Rating
(FPS) (approx.) 230
Cam(s) Straightline OVHP Cam
Draw Weight 40, 50, 60, 70 lbs.
Draw Length 28-32 in. Half Sizes 28.5 - 31.5 in.
Note:The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%
Axle to Axle Length
(approx) 40 in.
Brace Height
(approx.) 8 in.
Riser Length 27 1/8 in.
Physical Weight
(approx.) 4.5 lbs.
Letoff (%) 80%, 65%
String/Cable Length String 106 1/4" Cable 41 7/8"
The 32" 65% Cam will NOT adjust to 80%, however, the 32" 80% is adjustable to 65%(31 1/2")
That is all the specs on the Ovation.
#39
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,640
Likes: 0
From: Roodhouse Illinois
Slim, Seriously check out the Oneida Black Eagle. You can get it in camo too, check out the pic.
Specs Black Eagle
Short: (24" - 27") Short Cams
Speed: AMO 238 fps IBO 290 fps
Brace Height: 6" - 6-3/8"
44" tip to tip
Max Let-Off 75%
Medium: (28.5" - 30")
Speed: AMO 242 fps IBO 298 fps
Brace Height: 6-3/4" - 7"
45" tip to tip for finger or release
Max Let-Off 80%
Long: (31" - 33.5") Medium Cams
Speed: AMO 242 fps IBO 298 fps
Brace Height: 7-3/4"
48" tip to tip
Max Let-Off 80%
Specs Black Eagle
Short: (24" - 27") Short Cams
Speed: AMO 238 fps IBO 290 fps
Brace Height: 6" - 6-3/8"
44" tip to tip
Max Let-Off 75%
Medium: (28.5" - 30")
Speed: AMO 242 fps IBO 298 fps
Brace Height: 6-3/4" - 7"
45" tip to tip for finger or release
Max Let-Off 80%
Long: (31" - 33.5") Medium Cams
Speed: AMO 242 fps IBO 298 fps
Brace Height: 7-3/4"
48" tip to tip
Max Let-Off 80%
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Toxophiliac
Traditional Archery
9
02-22-2002 09:54 PM




