If you want to put your bow's tiller back to the factory settings, measure from the belly side of the limbs right where they join the riser out to the string. The factory setting is the same measurment on each end.

BUT, the factory setting may not be right for your shooting style. You adjust the tiller on your bow to accomodate your grip, so that both limbs work equally. Draw your bow slowly. If the bow pulls UP during the draw the top limb is too strong, and you need to take some tension off the top limb bolt. If the bow pulls DOWN, then the bottom limb is too strong and you need to take tension off of that limb bolt. You want the bow to remain dead steady in your hand as you draw straight back. That is the proper tiller setting for your shooting style with that particular bow. Result, it will be much easier to hold steady as you aim and it will help tame any recoil or 'shock' you may be experiencing. And it will improve the bow's consistency.

Also, my theory is that a bow will do exactly the same thing during the shot that it does on the draw. If a bow is pulling up during the draw, then that stronger limb will overpower the bottom limb during the shot and cause the bow to rock in the hand. Straight and level nock travel? No hope of it. If your form varies the slightest bit, then accuracy is out the window.

Getting both limbs to pull evenly will straighten out your nock travel and improve your bow's forgiveness. Possibly even get faster arrow speed as well, with more energy going from the bow to the arrow, rather than that energy being used up with one limb fighting the other. Doing like most guys nowadays and just cranking down both limb bolts down as far as they'll go... They'll never get the best performance or accuracy that their bows are capable of delivering.

Adjust your tiller to fit you and achieve a level launch attitude for the arrow. Then adjust your rest, nock height and nock/fletching alignment to eliminate rest contact. I believe that is what arrowman was trying to get across.