slim9300

I am planning on buying a new bow around Christmas and have been doing a little research. I am currently shooting a 2001 Pearson Silencer (43.25'' axel to axel) at 74 lbs. draw weight with fingers. I shoot Carbon Express CX-400 carbon arrows w/ Muzzy 100 grain 3-blades. The bow shoots very accurately out to about 65-70 yards with broadheads. The problem I am having is consistancy in the long term. The bow is very accurate, however it seems to change windage overnight. I will shoot about 6-8'' groups at 65 yards one day and the next I will put that same group 6-8'' to the right or left of the center. So I adjust for the windage and the rest of that day it shoots great. This cycle always continues to repeat itself. What the hell, I am not imagining this. But I do have a feeling this has something to do with the finger torque I put on the string, since I shoot with a peep. And obviously, I am not doing this on purpose.

With this bow I have killed two elk in the last three years. So it's not like I am just changing bows for changings-sake. I really want greater accuracy and consistancy. My dad always pushed me toward shooting fingers, but I feel like it's leading to the inconsistancy. So there is my background info/story, on to the questions...

The most important aspects I am looking for in a new bow are: (in order of importance)

1.) Consistant accuracy!
2.) Reliability (I don't want to worry about cam, string, or cable problems where the bow always has to be readjusted or meticulously checked)
3.) Forgivness
4.) Quietness

I am looking at three bows:

1.) Hoyt XTEC or VTEC (draw weight: 80 lbs., 31.5'' draw length, 75% let-off, axel to axel length: 35.5")

2.) Hoyt PROTEC w/ XT 4000 limbs (draw weight: 80 lbs., 31.5'' draw length, 75% let-off, axel to axel length: 46")

3.) BowTech Liberty VFT (w/ Freedom Cam, draw weight: 80 lbs., 30'' draw length, 80% let-off, axel to axel length: 33.25")

For the record I used to shoot 84 lbs. with no problem, but my cables were cut and after they were re-built the bow had a 74 lbs. draw weight. I couldn't tell you why, they were built to the specs on the sticker. Also, I am 6' 3'' and have a very long wingspan. I am not sure what the draw length is on my bow but it greater then 30''. If I had to guess I would say it's 32''. I don't hunt in a tree stand, so a short axel to axel length isn't important. Actually, I am under the impression that a longer axel to axel length is more forgiving. I think that's it, I just wanted give you guys the best background info possible. Now give me your opinions and experiences with the above bows. I am leaning toward either of the Hoyt's.

Also, I don't know what release to go with. I have heard good things about Scotts...

BGfisher

You are looking at some pretty good equipment there. I don't know about the Bowtech though. I just don't keep up with everything. I would give the Martin lineup a look before buying. They make several bows with good specs for finger shooting. The new Shadowcat with Elite limbs and Nitrous cams would be nice, or even with the TruArc. Another one is the Razor X, again with the Elite Limbs. These are bows that have an ATA in the low to mid 40's. Take a look at www.martinarchery.com.

I shoot release and am presently shooting a SlayR with Nitrous cams. It's an incredible bow compared to all the ones I've had before.

walks with a gimp

The BowTech Sampson is gone from the line up in '05. The new Allegiance will be available up to 100 pounds but only 30 inch draw. The new BowTech Old Glory will go to 31 inch draw but only 70 pounds, do you really need 80 pounds??? I'd highly recomend going to using a release to increase your accuracy, a different bow might be adjusted to fit you better but try a release with your old bow and see if it makes a difference

muzzyman88

Slim, not to pick on you or anything, but one statement stands out to me...

Unless your sight or rest is coming loose, this sounds more like an inconsistant form issue. I'll get a day or so like that where I hit more the left side or right side of my aiming point and its almost always me getting lazy on form.

On the bow note you have quite a handful of good bows there. My advice would be to shoot them all until you find which feels best to you. I personally shoot an Xtec and really like it. Being that you're a finger shooter a longer ATA bow would be a better fit for you. The Xtec is 35 1/2" ATA. You may want to take a look at either the ProTec or the UltraTec if you're looking for more added length.

Oh, and don't foget brace height. The Xtec, Ultratec, and the Protec are 7"+ in the catagory too.

Don't get hung up on one brand though. Bowtech is coming up with a lineup that has a couple bows in it that would do you nicely as well.

Be patient and shop around, shoot em all, then decide.

Bigpapascout

I have ownes at least one model bow from all the well known Manufacturers
but the highest quality bow I have ever owned is Archery Pro LLC/Newberry bows Bar NONE.

End Of Story!

slim9300

I will definately switch to a release when I buy a new bow. I don't like the idea of shooting fingers on a bow less then 40'' ATA.

And yes, I definately want an 80 lbs. draw weight.

slim9300

What does brace height mean? What is the advantage of a longer brace height? Stability?

Also, what does Reflex Geometry mean?

You said to look at the ProTec as an additional option. That's my number 2 choice. I do like the longer ATA length, but remember I am not shooting fingers with any new bow I buy. I will definately shoot a release.

So you don't think finger torque could play a role in the inconsistancy?

Straightarrow

Almost every bow made is equally accurate. Consistency comes from the archer form and his ability to tune the bow.

The reliability you're referring to, comes from the quality of the string. I highly recommend getting a custom made string to eliminate any concern in this area. Most stock strings are adequate at best. Since you should regularly replace your string, it's my opinion that you should start out with what you'll always be shooting. There are many guys making reasonably priced custom strings that will not creep and will not stretch after a very short break-in period.

Forgiveness - It sounds like the bow you're currently shooting is designed on the more forgiving side than the ones you're considering.

Quiet - Almost alll new bows are quiet - even the very inexpensive ones. If they aren't, a few cheap add-on silencing products will quickly make it so. I personally would not choose a bow based on this requirement. It's simply too easy to get almost all current bows to shoot very quietly.

As a side note, I think a guy with your draw length should stay will the longer ATA bows. An 8" or longer brace (distance from deepest part of grip to the string) will also add some forgiveness. A reflex bow has the limbs attached in front of the bow's grip. A deflex riser would have the limbs attached in the rear of the grip - towards the archer.

Arthur P

I've got a 33.5" draw length and shoot fingers and, when I shoot a compound, it's a ProTec with an axle to axle length of 46" and 8" brace height. I've got LXPro limbs on mine, but Hoyt has discontinued them and replaced them with XT4000 limbs this year. (Looks like the same limb but with a different name?) I'd suggest the ProTec with Cam 1/2 and XT4000 limbs. It is available up to 80 pounds draw weight. Unless you just want to switch to release shooting[:'(], this is the bow that best fits your requirements.

I had a Pearson a few years back and had the same problem with wandering windage. I tracked the problem down to the grip. For some reason, I couldn't grab the handle the same way, from one day to the next, and the bow was extremely 'torque-y'. So, I replaced that tacky, soft rubber grip with their optional wood grip. The bow was still very particular about how it wanted to be gripped, but it was much easier to get it consistent from one day to the next.

Also, it sounds like you need to get your string and cable twisted up some to get your draw weight back.

Straightarrow is right on the money, IMO. The longer an arrow stays on the string, the longer you've got to screw up the shot. With my 33.5" draw and 8" brace height, my arrow travels with the string for 25.5" before it's free. If I had a bow with a 6.5" brace, it'd be on the string for 27". That's another inch-and-a-half of travel time. Another 1.5" for me to move my bow arm. Another 1/5" for the bow's torque to mess with my arrow flight. Another 1.5" where the string can interfere with the arrow's paradox.

As far as speed goes, the longer the arrow is powered by the string the faster it goes, BUT! How much power stroke do you need, anyway? Somebody with a 30" draw and a bow with a 6.5" brace height winds up with a power stroke of 23.5". If you've got a 32" draw and use a bow with an 8" brace, you've got a power stroke of 24". You've still got the other guy beat and are using a more forgiving brace height.

The big thing about reflex vs deflex risers is torque. With a reflex riser, the bow's grip is between your string hand and the limb butts. Your bow hand has enough mechanical advantage to really twist the snot out of the grip, especially on a high letoff bow. The deflex riser puts the limb butts between the grip and the string hand, eliminating the bow hand's mechanical advantage. Deflex risers are very resistant to torque and are much more stable and 'forgiving' as a result.

Reflex risers are for short armed little twerps who want more arrow speed and are willing to deal with all the torque problems of a reflex riser to get a low brace height and longer power stroke. Ape armed guys -like us- can get the benefits of a high brace height AND deflex riser and still get more power stroke than the stubbies can. [8D]

BobCo19-65

I agree that the ProTech may be what you are looking for. Another one to look at is the Darton Tundra Extreme.