Rick James

I know what center shot is, I am just curious as to what others consider center shot and how they find it.

I am a big proponent of walk back tuning. I will first of all set 2nd and 3rd axis on a medicine stone bow vise. Once this is done, I will first shoot a 3 arrow group @ 20 yards and then walk back to 40 yards. I will hang a plumb bob from center of the 20 yard group and then shoot with my 20 yard pin or scope setting from 40. If the arrow drops vertically and I am using a pin sight, I then go to check paper tears at 5, 10, 15, and 20 yards. If all appears well there I let it be and sight it in. If I am using a scope (like on my FITA bow) I will actually walk back tune it to 70 meters. The most I cancomfortably hold a predictable group is out to 70 meters so that is why I will go back there instead of 90 meters w/ my fita rig. The place where I do a lot of my tuning has 60 yards indoors so I can do this kind of walkback tuning so that the arrow doesn't have wind to affect flight for the majority of it.

As far as papertuning for spine..........................

I have read a lot about this, but nearly every arrow I shoot is overspined according to OnTarget2 and any chart you might see because I shoot a lot of linecutter style shafts for spots, and 3D. Specifically I shoot Pro 22's and 30X Pro's. I never see symptoms of overspine on these arrows in terms of nock right tears once my walkback tune has been completed. As a matter of fact out of the 6 different types of arrows I have made up right now for different purposes only one set is spined correctly, and that is my skinny K&K Angel 405's that I use for out to 90 meters for FITA. Do you guys actually see these types of tears for too stiff of a spine? If so, why do I not see this?

I know a lot of guys that say that spine is so critical of accuracy, however I am shooting 445-448 with34-38X's on a 3 spot vegas face right now. When I miss, I know it isn't because of the spine, it is because of a poorly executed shot.

AllenRead

Did you try this arrow with a 125 grain point? According to OnTarget2 the arrow is a little stiff. Of course as Rick pointed our, OT2 tends to recommend weaker spined arrows. Also, I am making a lot of assumptions on your bow that could significantly change the spine recommendations.

Checking with heavier points would be a cheap way to test.

BobCo19-65

I kind of figured you did.

I have, yes.



Just wondering what the deflectionsare of these various arrows. It's interesting to me that your setup/tune is not effectedusingvarious arrows.

My experience showed that most of the charts out there were too stiff. The last compound that I tuned for myself was a 2004 Darton Tundra Extreme which was tuned for broadhead well with a 2216 Easton.

I'm also a proponent of walk back tuning, but I usually used to do it in reverse order (set center shot (as close as possible), paper tune, walk back).

Rick James

The pro 22's are a .300 spine arrow, and I shoot them w/ a 31 grain insert and a 65 grain pdp screw in point, so as you can imagine they spine for about a 100lb bow. They shoot great out of my 70lb Apex 7 as my primary IBO 3D and local 3D arrow, and during the summer time I am actually shooting spots games with this bow as well and carrying a respectable mid to high 440's average.

The 30X Pro's are actually a .150 spine.............yeah that's right. I shoot them w/ 180 grain points for spots out of my regular Apex @ 57.5lbs, and out of the Apex 7 with150 grains up front @ 70lbsfor ASA 3D. They are 26/64's outside diameter. They shoot lights out, much better than my 2512's did cut long and with LOTS of weight up front to break down to appropriate spine.

All of these arrows shoot bullet holes in paper after doing a walk back tune. The thing I have found is that they MUST be cut about 1/2" in front of the blade, and that blade thickness seems to be critical, they seem to like a thinner blade, I shoot a .010 blade.

BobCo19-65

But it seems that you are actually changing the setup (different weight tips, bow poundage,etc) when you are usingthe different arrows shafts correct? You're not changing the centershot once you have found it, because as we said, there is only one centershot. I can now understand why you are getting a good paper tear after walkback tuning. It's because your various set ups are tuned. For some reason, I was under the impression that nothing was changed at allwhen usingdifferent arrow shafts.

It seems you are using paper tuning for kind of a double check on your tune, where I use it as a tool to get me closer to the centershot, then the "eyeballing it" method, before walk back tuning.

I also like how you mentioned that you do not walk back tune further then you can confidently hold a good group. If someone tries this that doesn't use that concept, there will be a lot of...................