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paper tuning question

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paper tuning question

Old 06-26-2006, 07:01 PM
  #1  
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Default paper tuning question

Its my 1st time paper tuning, and I think I know what I'm doing, but I'm not seeing major results when I make adjustments to the rest. I really hope that doesn't mean the problem is my form!
The tail end of the arrow is tearing consistantly 1/2 - 1" to the right of the entry hole. The arrow is brand new and straight, there is no contact between the vanes and cables, and I'm comfortable with my form. My nocking point may be a bit low, but I'm not seeing any problems with elevation, the nock is always entering the paper directly to the right of the field point hole. I shoot with a release directly on the string.
Could it be a stiffness issue with my shafts? I shoot a short arrow because my DL is only 26", they are Easten 2213.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 06-26-2006, 08:00 PM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

Move your rest to the right. If it doesn't seem like it helps, move it alot to the extreme in one direction or the other just to see if it makesa difference. Moving it to theright should do it....

Um.....man, I always mess up on this one.......change the weight of your points.....for a right tear.......um.......change to a lighter point...I think....I'm gonna go check that one....BRB....

Well, for some reason, I can download the tuning guide from Easton....but I can't open it. Dern...oh well.....If you are getting a consistent tear one way or the other, it prolly isn't bad form. If it varies alot, I would say you are torquing the bow, but not in this case I don't think.
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:37 AM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

I'd make sure your nocking point is set correctly before going any further.
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Old 06-27-2006, 11:44 AM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

I am never an advocate of moving the rest during tuning unless I absolutely have to. It is best to keep it at centershot if at all possible, which is basically only one position. I'd much rather tune the arrow to the bow by shortening it (start with longer arrows) if need be or added or subtracting weight to the tip. A compound is also nice in that you can adjust the poundage of the bow to aid in tuning.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:51 PM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

ORIGINAL: BobCo19-65

I am never an advocate of moving the rest during tuning unless I absolutely have to. It is best to keep it at centershot if at all possible, which is basically only one position. I'd much rather tune the arrow to the bow by shortening it (start with longer arrows) if need be or added or subtracting weight to the tip. A compound is also nice in that you can adjust the poundage of the bow to aid in tuning.
What do you consider centershot, and how would you personally measure this?
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:09 PM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

I just went through the opposite tear with my patriot. A Right tear would indicate an overspined arrow, try a 125 grain tip if you are shooting 100's now and see if it changes. If you have to move the rest so far that the arrow looks like it has a lot of offset, move it back to the factory reccommended center shot. BowTech is 7/8" from the riser. I even put a new rest on to make sure it wasn't the Trophy Taker with something bent. I ended up getting the tear as small as I could, sighted the bow in, then tuned my broadheads to my target tips. As long as my BH's are hitting where I'm aiming, and I don't have to adjust my sights between shooting BH's and target tips, I'm in good shape.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:13 PM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

Hi Rick, check out this link. It explains center shot pretty well. I wouldn't suggest their way of finding center shot however. One thing that hasto always be assumed is that the individual doing the tune is very consistant,and that there is no torquing issues at full draw. Ofcourse that is never 100% with a person.

http://www.skookumarchers.com/Archery%20Library/Compound%20Bows.htm


Anyway, how did I used to get centershot without calling the manufacturer or using one of the gizmos out today?

I used toplace my compound bow onthe rollers of mypress and put a levels on the back of each limb at the pockets. Then I'd take a very long arrow (usually the samediameter that I planed on using) and put a 220 grain field tip on it, place it on the string and let it hang freely while checking the levels (limbs parallel to the floor).Then I'd match the left right adjustment of my rest to match perfectly. This would get me extremely close assuming there is not a limb twist problem.
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:00 PM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

This is from the link provided above.
Center Shot:

There is only one place for the rest to be set. That is on the true center shot. If you are expecting the arrow to come out of the bow dead straight, the only way this can happen is if the rest is dead inline with the travel of the string. On an accurately made bow with no limb twist either at rest or full draw this is a simple measurement to make. Simply put a bit of masking tape half way up the limbs. Measure from the side of the limb to the face of the cam and transfer this measurement to a line in the tape. Then with an arrow in the bow, stand back and line up the string with the line just to the right for a right handed archer. Because most bows particularly the latest fashion for split limbs do have some limb twist at full draw, this measured centershot is seldom the precise working center shot, but will be a good starting point.


Now let's dissect this paragraph.

First they say that there is only one place for the center shot and then they start with a few caveats but miss several more. Then they say,"On an accurately made bow with no limb twist either at rest or full draw this is a simple measurement to make.", but again fail to analyze the full complication of really identifying the location of the center shot.

They finally get to the real meat of the subject with the last statement "...this measured centershot is seldom the precise working center shot, but will be a good starting point."

While they mention limb twist, they fail to mention such things as misaligned axles, cam lean, cam bushing wear (which can amplify cam lean), static verses dynamic cam lean and limb twist. Then there is the issue of risers bending under full load. Consideration should also be given to the fact that some cam designs run the string in a line that is NOT parallel to the limbs or riser.

The best advise they gave was part of a sentence: "...stand back and line up the string...". Of course, you have to 'guess' as to where to line it up. Then, and only then, do you proceed to 'adjust' the centershot until you find that 'sweet spot'.

Of course, some of the others things that have to be considered when paper tuning are arrow straightness, arrow spine, nock alignment, type of rest and the characteristics of that rest which can dictate proper installation of that rest, proper form, proper release, proper draw length, etc., etc., etc.

It's not rocket science, but it can much more complicated than most give it credit; that is, if it's done properly.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:36 AM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

I agree Len. They did leave a lot out. The paragraph was not very technical. And any "eyeball" method of getting to centershot will only get you close depending on who is doing the "eyeballing".

One other point that was mentioned which to me is the meat and potatos of the paragraph this:

There is only one place for the rest to be set. That is on the true center shot. If you are expecting the arrow to come out of the bow dead straight, the only way this can happen is if the rest is dead inline with the travel of the string.
Although they leave out how to identify centershot 100% in the paragraph, and leave out a lot of the variables, I believe this is a true statement.


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Old 06-28-2006, 07:15 AM
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Default RE: paper tuning question

Len and Bob,

Your posts bring up a question. No matter what I did, I couldn't get rid of a tail left tear. It would indicate a weak spine, but at 60# with a 28.5" GT 5575, I would think the spine is OK with a 100 Gr. tip. I got the same tear with a 7595 and a 125 Gr. tip. This led me to believe it was rest position. No matter what I did, the tear wouldn't get any better than about 1/2". I did have the local pro shop shoot it through paper to make sure it was not my form or hand torque, they got the same tear. I adjusted the rest to get the smallest tear possible, then I shot target tips and BH's, and adjusted the rest until both would hit the same spot on the target. The adjustments were very minor, and at 20 yds. both are right on.

Would you say that the bow is not shooting center shot? I would, but I also consider this tuned, as both tips are shooting to the same point of impact (at 20 yds.). With your statements above, are you saying my penetration is not what it should be if the arrow was shooting true center shot? Am I losing performance?

I'm just trying to learn a little something here, so educate me. I am positive that the bow will not shoot a bullet hole through paper, but as long as I'm not changing my sights between BH's and target tips, and the arrows are going almost all the way through my Yellow Jacket target I believe it will kill whatever I shoot at.
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