Paper Tuning Question
#1
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
From: Burke, VA (raised in MD)
I am having an issue paper tuning a 2006 Bowtech Allegiance.
The bow is set at approximately 65 lbs with 27.5"fast module. I am constantly getting the attached tear. The Easton Tuning guide calls for moving the rest (whisker bisquit) to the left but I am at the end of left adjustment.
My release is a TRUball Xtra.
My arrows are 27" Carbon Express 6075. My arrow spine correct according to all charts - I have also tried shooting 27" 4560 arrows with the same results. My arrowappears to haveadequate clearance on the cables and I have tried my best not to create hand torque.
To elimate a high tear, I had to move the bisquit in the opposite direction suggested in the tuning guide. The tuning guide suggests this as a possibility with certian combinations of personal form/arrow.
Has anyone else had to make opposite corrections with the Whisker Bisquit?
Any suggestions on what to do to elminate this tear?
Or, should I just shoot it and forget it?
Attachment (1)
The bow is set at approximately 65 lbs with 27.5"fast module. I am constantly getting the attached tear. The Easton Tuning guide calls for moving the rest (whisker bisquit) to the left but I am at the end of left adjustment.
My release is a TRUball Xtra.
My arrows are 27" Carbon Express 6075. My arrow spine correct according to all charts - I have also tried shooting 27" 4560 arrows with the same results. My arrowappears to haveadequate clearance on the cables and I have tried my best not to create hand torque.
To elimate a high tear, I had to move the bisquit in the opposite direction suggested in the tuning guide. The tuning guide suggests this as a possibility with certian combinations of personal form/arrow.
Has anyone else had to make opposite corrections with the Whisker Bisquit?
Any suggestions on what to do to elminate this tear?
Or, should I just shoot it and forget it?
Attachment (1)
#2
If you are sure that you have the static center shot set up correctly:
Try turning the arrow nock 120 degrees and see if the tear changes. If it does, turn the nock 120 degrees again and see if the tear changes. If it does, then get another arrow. You cannot paper tune correctly if you are using an arrow that is not spined correctly. By turning the nock you are able to check the spine of the arrow you are using. If it is not spined correctly it will shoot differently because you are essentially moving the stiffer part of the spine from, say, the top to the lower left or lower right and then moving it again. By moving the stiffer part around you get different arrow flight. (One of the things we did in Len's seminar
)
If your static centershot is correct and you are using a good arrow:
You can try increasing the draw weight to 68lbs and see what happens. If the tear gets smaller but does not go away increase the draw weight again.
Or you can try moving the rest to the right just a very little (1/32")at a time.
I would try to correct it wit the draw weight first.
Try turning the arrow nock 120 degrees and see if the tear changes. If it does, turn the nock 120 degrees again and see if the tear changes. If it does, then get another arrow. You cannot paper tune correctly if you are using an arrow that is not spined correctly. By turning the nock you are able to check the spine of the arrow you are using. If it is not spined correctly it will shoot differently because you are essentially moving the stiffer part of the spine from, say, the top to the lower left or lower right and then moving it again. By moving the stiffer part around you get different arrow flight. (One of the things we did in Len's seminar

) If your static centershot is correct and you are using a good arrow:
You can try increasing the draw weight to 68lbs and see what happens. If the tear gets smaller but does not go away increase the draw weight again.
Or you can try moving the rest to the right just a very little (1/32")at a time.
I would try to correct it wit the draw weight first.
#3
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 0
From: Burke, VA (raised in MD)
Bruce,
Thanks, I will trygoing up 3 lbs. and then the 120 degree rotation tonight. If this doesn't help, I will try to move the rest to the right - which is opposite of what should work.
The tear is not huge but I want to try to correct it.
I have done my best with the static center shot, but you loose that
setting as soon as you make a paper tuning right/left adjustment, right?
Thanks for the advice,
Kevin
Thanks, I will trygoing up 3 lbs. and then the 120 degree rotation tonight. If this doesn't help, I will try to move the rest to the right - which is opposite of what should work.
The tear is not huge but I want to try to correct it.
I have done my best with the static center shot, but you loose that
setting as soon as you make a paper tuning right/left adjustment, right?
Thanks for the advice,
Kevin
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
The 6075 is extremely stiff, but the 4560 should be fine. According to Ontarget2. It usually gives me stiff results, but yours is extremely stiff.
If rotating the arrow doesn't result in a bad arrow, I would change out the whisker bisket myself. That could be your interference. Are you straight fletched? Blazers I suppose.
If rotating the arrow doesn't result in a bad arrow, I would change out the whisker bisket myself. That could be your interference. Are you straight fletched? Blazers I suppose.
#6
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,188
Likes: 0
From: Balt, MD (orig: J-town,PA) The bowels of Hell!!!
bigcountry is right about the arrows.
Both arrows are overspined at 65 lbs. The 6075's are extremely overspined even with a 100 gr tip. With the 4560's if you go up to 68 lbs you are in the ball park of a good spine with 100 or 125 gr tips. A little stiff with the 100 and a little weak with the 125. At 70 lbs the 4560 w/ 100 grain is pretty good. Try going to 68 w/ the 4560's and see what happens.
The big issue with me though is the rest position. If you are the whole way to the end of a WB with an Allegiance something is off. I had a WB on mine and still had 1/4" on the right side to the end of the horizontal adjustment post.Are you still centered in the valley on the riser?
I know some of the guys here are starting to think I sound like a broken record on this. However, a different approach is to try is French Tuningif you have access to a range or field to shoot at 50 to 55 yds. Walk back method if you have a range out to 40 yds. Sometime paper tuning can drive a person nuts trying to track down a problem. However, I've found French Tuninggives youfaster results and after tuning shot thru paper with a perfect bullet. Site in a pin to be dead on at 4 yds. Then go back to 50 to 53 yds. You need to find where the arrow crosses the axis at the further distance. If your group hits left move your rest right. If it hits right. move the rest left. You need a low wind/ no wind day for this. I wouldn't mess with the vertical adjustment if your vertical tear is gone.
If you're interested in the literature for this method email me with an email address I can send an attachment to.
Both arrows are overspined at 65 lbs. The 6075's are extremely overspined even with a 100 gr tip. With the 4560's if you go up to 68 lbs you are in the ball park of a good spine with 100 or 125 gr tips. A little stiff with the 100 and a little weak with the 125. At 70 lbs the 4560 w/ 100 grain is pretty good. Try going to 68 w/ the 4560's and see what happens.
The big issue with me though is the rest position. If you are the whole way to the end of a WB with an Allegiance something is off. I had a WB on mine and still had 1/4" on the right side to the end of the horizontal adjustment post.Are you still centered in the valley on the riser?
I know some of the guys here are starting to think I sound like a broken record on this. However, a different approach is to try is French Tuningif you have access to a range or field to shoot at 50 to 55 yds. Walk back method if you have a range out to 40 yds. Sometime paper tuning can drive a person nuts trying to track down a problem. However, I've found French Tuninggives youfaster results and after tuning shot thru paper with a perfect bullet. Site in a pin to be dead on at 4 yds. Then go back to 50 to 53 yds. You need to find where the arrow crosses the axis at the further distance. If your group hits left move your rest right. If it hits right. move the rest left. You need a low wind/ no wind day for this. I wouldn't mess with the vertical adjustment if your vertical tear is gone.
If you're interested in the literature for this method email me with an email address I can send an attachment to.
#7
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,413
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From:
My arrow spine correct according to all charts -




