Whisker Bisquit Experiment with pictures
#61
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 0
From: Eastern PA USA
I would agree that most bows can be tuned pretty well with the Biscuit, but having a few single cam bows with apparently bad nock travel that have been a bear to tune leads me to question if all bows follow this "rule." Perhaps adjusting the tiller could have helped, but I'm doubtful on that one. I know guys who are setting their nock point over 1/2" above square to get good flight with some singles and drop away rests. The one I recently had would "slam" the back of the arrow down, hitting the bracket, and putting black marks on my Bohning Blazer vanes. Broadheads shot low with this setup. I experimented with a drop away, and the broadheads now shot high, and a little right (with the same field pt. POI as with the Biscuit. When I put on a shoot through rest, it settled things down, but made a ringing vibration in the rest. I solved that problem by selling the bow, and replacing it with a Darton CPS system bow. No problems tuning now at all.
#62
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
ORIGINAL: Arrroman
Conlan,
You adjust tiller by turning the limb bolts.
You can get real close to an even tiller by simply turning both limb bolts in and then backing them out an equal number of turns each.
You add tiller by tightening the limb bolts.
You subtract tiller by loosening the limb bolt.
I highly reccomend that you set your bow at an even tiller before you set your nocking point at the 90degree point on the bowstring.
If both limbs are pulling evenly (even tiller) then the bow should be capable of shooting the correct spine arrow in a level fashion from the 90degree position on the bowstring.
If the bow has had an additional turn on the lower limb bolt then it is going to push the arrow down into the rest when the bow is shot. If the downward force is sufficient enough to cause fletching contact with the windage bracket you have to adjust the bow tiller in order for the bow to shoot the arrow through the center of the biscuit.
Good luck tuning!
Good luck hunting!
Remember to vote!
Conlan,
You adjust tiller by turning the limb bolts.
You can get real close to an even tiller by simply turning both limb bolts in and then backing them out an equal number of turns each.
You add tiller by tightening the limb bolts.
You subtract tiller by loosening the limb bolt.
I highly reccomend that you set your bow at an even tiller before you set your nocking point at the 90degree point on the bowstring.
If both limbs are pulling evenly (even tiller) then the bow should be capable of shooting the correct spine arrow in a level fashion from the 90degree position on the bowstring.
If the bow has had an additional turn on the lower limb bolt then it is going to push the arrow down into the rest when the bow is shot. If the downward force is sufficient enough to cause fletching contact with the windage bracket you have to adjust the bow tiller in order for the bow to shoot the arrow through the center of the biscuit.
Good luck tuning!
Good luck hunting!
Remember to vote!
Thanks for your help
#63
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From:
JOE PA,
I've seen an awful lot of bows with wildly out of tiller and ridiculously high nocking points over the years.
Of course a high nocking point would require a lot of extra tiller to accomodate it.
The interesting thing is that whether the arrow runs downhill or uphill to get to the rest the tiller of the bow can be adjusted to suit the situation.
If the arrow runs downhill to the rest the lower limb needs a little extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.
If the arrow runs uphill to the rest the upper limb needs extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.
In the case of the whisker biscuit sending the arrow through the rest at some absurd angle up, down, or sideways is going to put a larger cross-section of the fletching against the bristles, this will cause speed loss and complicate the tuning process.
I like to uncomplicate things as much as possible.
When I change strings and cables I adjust the bow to whatever the original specifications are at maximum poundage. If the limbs were evenly matched at the factory I think the tiller of the bow can be set pretty even by just turning the limb bolts out an equal number of turns each.
Raising the nocking point above square only serves to increase the nock pinch on your fingers or your release. The more acute the angle the worse the situation gets. So I nock at 90degrees to the bowstring.
I like to do all my tuning with a wrench.
You can set the arrow close enougfh to 90degrees to the bowstring by eye and you don't need a bowsquare.
The windage for the rest should be determined by grouptuning for the narrowest group at different distances. Setting your windage with a lazer doesn't always work.
Good luck tuning your bow!
Good luck hunting!
Remember to vote!
I've seen an awful lot of bows with wildly out of tiller and ridiculously high nocking points over the years.
Of course a high nocking point would require a lot of extra tiller to accomodate it.
The interesting thing is that whether the arrow runs downhill or uphill to get to the rest the tiller of the bow can be adjusted to suit the situation.
If the arrow runs downhill to the rest the lower limb needs a little extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.
If the arrow runs uphill to the rest the upper limb needs extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.
In the case of the whisker biscuit sending the arrow through the rest at some absurd angle up, down, or sideways is going to put a larger cross-section of the fletching against the bristles, this will cause speed loss and complicate the tuning process.
I like to uncomplicate things as much as possible.
When I change strings and cables I adjust the bow to whatever the original specifications are at maximum poundage. If the limbs were evenly matched at the factory I think the tiller of the bow can be set pretty even by just turning the limb bolts out an equal number of turns each.
Raising the nocking point above square only serves to increase the nock pinch on your fingers or your release. The more acute the angle the worse the situation gets. So I nock at 90degrees to the bowstring.
I like to do all my tuning with a wrench.
You can set the arrow close enougfh to 90degrees to the bowstring by eye and you don't need a bowsquare.
The windage for the rest should be determined by grouptuning for the narrowest group at different distances. Setting your windage with a lazer doesn't always work.
Good luck tuning your bow!
Good luck hunting!
Remember to vote!
#64
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I figured out how to fix my vane wear/contact problem and like I suspected it was mostly due to the vane setup. I adjusted the tiller out of curiosity, but it didn't substantially seem to actually affect the nock travel. The change of vanes on the other hand made all the difference in the world. The company's name that makes the vane is Arizona Archery Enterprises Inc. They have developed it specifically for the whisker biscuit. It is a little bit lower profile then say a duravane, but it's made of a lighter and more resilient material. I am shooting an agressive right helical (maybe 5 degrees??) on a 4'' vane. There doesn't seem to be any difference in arrow flight (with field points or broadheads), even at 60 yards. And I have shot the same arrow 50 times or so without any wear/contact problems. The main reason they work so well with the Wisker Biscuit is because of their low profile.
Hear is a link to the AAP vane: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...ainCatcat21424
Hear is a link to the AAP vane: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...ainCatcat21424
#65
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I had a whisker biscuit installed at a local arrow shop. He set it up with a laser...have several different types of arrows and vanes........have shot quite a lot in the last couple of days and have noticed no problems........my groupings are very tight at 20 and 30 yards which they werent before so I think it is because it was laser set....loving it too




