JOE PA,

I've seen an awful lot of bows with wildly out of tiller and ridiculously high nocking points over the years.

Of course a high nocking point would require a lot of extra tiller to accomodate it.

The interesting thing is that whether the arrow runs downhill or uphill to get to the rest the tiller of the bow can be adjusted to suit the situation.

If the arrow runs downhill to the rest the lower limb needs a little extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.

If the arrow runs uphill to the rest the upper limb needs extra tiller for the bow to shoot straight.

In the case of the whisker biscuit sending the arrow through the rest at some absurd angle up, down, or sideways is going to put a larger cross-section of the fletching against the bristles, this will cause speed loss and complicate the tuning process.

I like to uncomplicate things as much as possible.

When I change strings and cables I adjust the bow to whatever the original specifications are at maximum poundage. If the limbs were evenly matched at the factory I think the tiller of the bow can be set pretty even by just turning the limb bolts out an equal number of turns each.

Raising the nocking point above square only serves to increase the nock pinch on your fingers or your release. The more acute the angle the worse the situation gets. So I nock at 90degrees to the bowstring.

I like to do all my tuning with a wrench.

You can set the arrow close enougfh to 90degrees to the bowstring by eye and you don't need a bowsquare.

The windage for the rest should be determined by grouptuning for the narrowest group at different distances. Setting your windage with a lazer doesn't always work.

Good luck tuning your bow!

Good luck hunting!
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