Never seen it , but if your arrow looks that goofy going down range I'd suggest some bare shaft tuning.

I saw corkscrewing arrow flight when my rest was offset in BOTH a left and down position. I think it must be a combo of low or high AND left or right.

Up and down adjustments will fix porpoising and left and right will fix fishtailing. A combo of both should fix your corkscrewing.


I adjust my rest until I get perfect straight arrow flight. I can shoot bare shafts at 30 yards that fly like darts. They do hit a little tip low but that is due to weight of tip pulling the nose down.


I get my arrows flying straight off the string and I am done.........I don't play with my poundage because I am comfortable with it now and my broadheads group awesome when arrow flight is perfect.

I am sure many people fine tune more then I do...........but as long as my arrows are coming off the string in a straight line to the target I am happy.


Good Luck

I have a friend who has the deluxe model and is getting contact on the bracket also. This bow is tuned great bare shafts hit 1/2 inch low of the fletched ones at 30 yards. I emailed CAP and suggested that they make the biscuit a slightly larger diameter for next years model. I think this would solve a lot of peoples problems. All I got was a reply back about how I did not know how to tune a bow. Made me so mad I am selling my Biscuit and buying a Trophy Taker. I loved mine and had absolutly no problems after switching to Bohning vanes. Try to help out a friend and make a suggestion to a manufacturer on how to possibly improve a product and get a smart remark back from them. After the season mines up for sale, and I wont suggest them to anyone.

akaSharkey,

If you are having contact with the bracket you are either shooting the wrong spine arrow or the bow and/or the rest is out of adjustment.

Most bows will shoot a level arrow if the bow has been set at an even tiller and the arrow is nocked at 90degrees to the bowstring.

If the arrow is being pitched downward upon release and the arrow is being slammed down into the bracket you may need to remove a little tiller from the lower limb bolt to even the bow tiller.

A larger diameter hole in the biscuit is not neccessarily going to help tune an out of tiller bow.

Most people who use the biscuit to hunt with can use either size biscuit with carbon arrows and get great results.

The biscuit does peform better when there is a few thousandths extra room around the arrow. Some of the fatter aluminium shafts could use a .44" hole instead of the .36" hole that is in the aluminium biscuit.

The biscuit can be adjusted to accomodate larger diameter arrows, and that is probably why there isn't a larger size biscuit in normal production.

Good luck hunting!
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I was not suggesting they make the hole bigger, but the whole biscuit. If the biscuit was larger I think it would get rid of a lot of problems. My bow with the dual cams is set with nock at 90 degrees my friends is set slightly above with his single cam bow. The one vane hits on the lower right portion of the deluxe models bracket where it sticks up slightly above the biscuit.The bow shoots bare shafts great out to 30 yards and is tuned perfectly as far as I can tell. If the diameter of the biscuit was larger or the mounting bracket did not stick up everything would be fine

akaSharky,

The tiller of the bow will determine the attitude of the nock end of the arrow when the arrow leaves the bowstring.

An even tillered bow will launch a level arrow.

An unevenly tillered bow will pull the nock end of the arrow in the direction of the limb that has the additional tiller.

You can fine tune the tiller of the bow in order to launch a level arrow.

If the arrow goes through the center of the rest level in will not be hitting the bracket unless the windage is out of adjustment or you are shooting too weak a spine arrow.

Good luck hunting!
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Exactly! But, do you think a shorter vane (refering to height) would solve this problem? It seems like it's barely making contact with the bracket, but since the arrow is moving very rapidly the minimal contact ripples the vane.

If the bow is set at an even tiller the arrow will go through the rest level.

Any additional tiller added to the lower limb will push the arrow down onto the rest.

You can add tiller to the upper limb or subtract tiller from the lower limb to keep the arrow from pushing down on the rest.

Good luck hunting!
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How do you adjust tiller? So you are saying that if the arrow is forced downward apon release, that the tiller of the upper limb must be adjusted to compensate? If you can, tell me how to add tiller to the upper limb.

Thanks,

Conlan

And remember to vote, for Bush that is.

Conlan,

You adjust tiller by turning the limb bolts.

You can get real close to an even tiller by simply turning both limb bolts in and then backing them out an equal number of turns each.

You add tiller by tightening the limb bolts.

You subtract tiller by loosening the limb bolt.

I highly reccomend that you set your bow at an even tiller before you set your nocking point at the 90degree point on the bowstring.

If both limbs are pulling evenly (even tiller) then the bow should be capable of shooting the correct spine arrow in a level fashion from the 90degree position on the bowstring.

If the bow has had an additional turn on the lower limb bolt then it is going to push the arrow down into the rest when the bow is shot. If the downward force is sufficient enough to cause fletching contact with the windage bracket you have to adjust the bow tiller in order for the bow to shoot the arrow through the center of the biscuit.

Good luck tuning!

Good luck hunting!
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