JimBow

Hi ,I am having some problems with my Q2xl. The cam I have is SL2-BR. On the Q2 xl this should be a 30 Inch draw from what I understand. The problem is I have to put alot of bend in my bow arm just to hit my anchor point next to my mouth. My old FX was 29.5 and It seemed I could shoot with a slight bent bow arm and didn't have the torque problems I have now. I want to a pro shop and had him take a look at me drawing and he said It looked way short. He drew it and swore up and down it was only 28 or 29 inches. I have had consistancy problems with this bow ever since I purchaced it. I pretty much narrowed it down to hand torque and a uncomfortable bent arm. I'm only 6'9'' so I should't have that long of a draw, Only kidding I'm 6'.

I had him install a loop To see if that helps. I want to get a accurate measurment With a arrow at full draw what point on the riser do you measure off?

PS.I also installed a winners choise string and made sure it was the 30/31 inch.

Paul L Mohr

Did you actually measure the draw length? He shouldn't have to "swear to it" You were in the shop, why didn't they just measure it for you? I refuse to not know what my draw length is within a quarter to half an inch.

How long are your arrows? They should be close to what your draw length is, unless you shoot an overdraw of some type. If you are supposed to have a 30 inch draw length, have 29 inch arrows and they hang past the front of your riser at full draw, then your draw is most likely short.

If your draw length is wrong, how do you know you have the correct arrows for your set up? The correct place to measure you arrow at fulll draw is right above the deepest part of your grip. Normally one of the mounting holes for the rest will line up with this point. Mark that, and add 1.75 inches to it, that is your AMO draw length. Your correct arrow length should be about an inch past where you marked the arrow, for a conventional rest set up. It doesn't have to be perfect though. Like say you have a 30 inch draw length, you could cut your arrow between 30 and 29 or so inches and still be good. The spine charts are guidlines and starting points, not hard etched in stone science. Every bow is different. The important thing is to not get too weak of an arrow, that will make broad head tuning difficult.

If you shoot some sort of a drop a way or other type rest with some sort of overdraw to it you could shoot shorter arrows if you want. Just make sure you account for it in the spine chart. The charts get your draw length from your arrow length. Give the wrong arrow length and it will assume your draw length is something other than it really is.

Here are two links for you to check out. Must reads for the inquisitive archer.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
Check out the 2004 shaft selector software, and the Tuning guide. The shaft selector has the tuning guide in it pretty much. The other is a PDF file. If you don't have acrobat there is a link at the bottom of the page where you can download it.

Where did you buy the bow? Most mathews dealers would have made sure the draw length was correct to begin with. And if not should swap out cams for you to get it right. They may even do it if you bought it used, as long as you are trading the cam, not purchasing a sperate one. It shouldn't be hard to tell if your harness or string is the wrong size. I think the demensions of the bow would be off. Brace height, axle to axle that sort of stuff. Not 100 percent sure on that though. I'm not a dealer or anything. You may need to find a better shop.

I'm sure some mathews nut will answer here though.

Good luck,
Paul

Bigpapascout

sounds like they have the wrong cam on the bow

JimBow

The problem I have is I purchaced this bow on line. I was still new in box . I have been having tuneing problems ever since. Before this bow I had a FX. I wanted to upgrade a little so I purchaced a Q2xl. I was able to hit a pie plate sized target consistantly at 40 yrds with my FX and broad heads pretty much followed my field points. This bow has been shooting all over the place for 2 years now. The mathews dealer will not work on it and said they don't have to because I didn't buy it there. The bow is a little uncomfortable to shoot so I think the main problem is torque. Honestly I think I'll just start over with a new bow this year. Maybe a LX or a good bow Tech, we'll see. I can tell you one thing though I'll never buy a bow without drawing it and shooting it again . This will be my last Online purchace for archery equipment.

Paul L Mohr

My advice, I wouldn't buy a bow from the place you just mentioned. Screw 'em. They should have been willing to help you anyway even if you didn't get it there. They would most likely charge you, but they should have helped. I would even call mathews and let them know. I doubt they will care, but it's worth a shot. It does no service to anyone to have someone shooting a badly fitted bow. Whether you are upset about them buying it from you or not. Like they said, they don't HAVE to work on it, but they should have been willing to help you. I would find a different shop, even if it means not getting a mathews.

And now you know why we tell everyone to go to a shop and get thier bow. Even if you know your draw length. Every bow and manufacturer is different. If you upgrade to a more expenisve more powerful bow, but you don't shoot it better, or it doesn't fit did you really upgrade? That is a nice bow however, I say try to get the problem worked out somehow. Even if you have to drive to another area, or work with mathews directly. You might have to pay for a new cam or something, but I doubt it would be much more than a new string and harness in the long run.

If mathews has a messege forum like this try there and see if you get some better info. I don't know if they have one or not. I'm surprised you didn't get more responses here. Lot of mathews shooters here, and probably a dealer or two.

Good luck,
Paul

By the way, I have a bowtech and love it! Module type adjustment with a post for fine tuning and awsome strings from the factory.

JeffB

IIRC when going to the 30" or 31" cam on the Q2XL, they use a different cable and string length than the shorter draw lengths (Q2 required the new cable and string with 30" draw)

If this dealer swapped a cam to match your draw length, he may not have put the right string/cable on.

How is the cam timing?

JimBow

I Put a new winners choice string and cable on it last year I made sure to get the 30/31 inch. and it is way out of sync. The alignment holes are are not close to being parell to the string. They look like the string is too short. Who knows? I pretty much have my mind set to get a new bow for this year. Probably a Bowtech
The only problem I have is dealers. The Mathews dealer I went to is also a Bowtech dealer.They are the closest dealers aroud and they are 35 miles out. There is a possibility they thought I wanted warranty work. I ask the guy if the cam was wrong on a bow I was getting could they change it out and the 1st thing he ask was "are you getting the bow here". I was there to buy a rest and didn't have the bow yet at the time. When I told him I ordered it from a guy on line. He called Mathews and made a big deal about buying new bows via the internet being against Mathews dealer rules. He wanted the name of the dealer etc. I didn't press it.

The problem with dealers is the 50 mile rule makes it hard to find more than one dealer.
Mathews has this rule and I think bow tech also has it.

nub

I'd find another dealer. Even if I had to shoot a Hoyt product.

Bigpapascout

If you are serious about changing bow manufacturers give Newberry a chance.
once you try one you wont go back to Mathews that I guarantee!

and you dont have to buy the whole cam to make a draw length change.

Paul L Mohr

Well your dealer does have a point, your not supposed to be able to buy new mathews over the internet. And one of the reasons is because of what just happened to you. The other is to insure that the dealer can sell the bows they order. That way you can't go there and shoot one, then go home and order one for hundred dollars less on the net. That however does not stop someone from buying it, then selling it right a way. Then it isn't new anymore. It's used even if it has never been shot. And the waranty is not transferable when you sell a mathews, it's for the original owner only I believe. You should have said you were getting one "like new" from someone on the internet. Or just said you were buying it from some guy knew or something. Sometimes mathews will still warranty the bow any way though.

Paul