Kanga

Dave.

Not being a smart a$$ but the best way to check which cable is which draw the bow and look to see what cable goes in what direction

DaveC

Jim243src, by all means join in. I'm here to learn. You post does make some sense, but without the bow here to tinker with I'll just have to rely on my memory. Both cams were hitting the stops at about the same time (close as I could tell), but we only got 71% out of it.
Thepull cord was set up for 28" draw, so when the 29" was attempted I guess the cord was thentoo short. If this is true dealers may be (should be?) reluctant to serve in a drop away when they don't know what DL module may be used in the end.

Ausie-guy- Now that I think back the cable anchored near the axle is just an alternative anchor point instead of anchoring them outside the limbs?
If so, the cable on the outside of the cam is the one people are referring to as top or bottom. I know this should be second nature, no questions needed. But after reading so much about binaries I finally get to screwing with one and there sit's two cables on each cam- one towards the axle and one towards the outside. I wasn't expecting that at the time.

I know somewhere in cyberspace Gibblet is reading this thread shaking his head "oh crap, here we go again" [8D]. Sorry Charlie, I just had to.....

gibblet

dave, i would never do that.......

eugene, strange because they didn't even have the cams on my bow in '05.

MilDotMaster

DaveC,

The guys helping you here online, have way more experience than I do with these bows. I just got into archery a couple months ago. What is listed below in this paragraph is throwing me way off. Rick James post on page one has a great picture with the red and blue arrows; however, I obtained my 80% let-off by doing exactly the opposite of what he has listed. Maybe I’m crazy, but my bow is dead-on accurate and dead-on 80% let-off. I have tested my bows accuracy with the let-off set the way Rick listed and the accuracy wasn’t the best it could be. His way did give me a bigger valley, but my bow also felt sloppy at full draw and accuracy wasn’t there. Now my bow feels very tight, it’s accurate; I have a solid wall and 80% let-off. I couldn’t ask for more. See below for what I did to tune my bow.

Seems nobody has used your terminology yet to help you understand what cable to twist to restore your let-off to 80%. I adjusted my cable twists to best accuracy, which happened to be at 80% let-off. So with using your words, the top cable nearest the axle is the cable to add the twists to (the cable that makes a tighter bend). For example my top cam has 5.5 dots past limb and my lower cam has 4.75 dots past limb. This was achieved by adding twists to my top cable closets to the axle. I have a very accurate scale system and it was right at 14 pounds hold weight for a 70 pound bow. My stop peg is in the 80% position and the secondary stops are just kissing the cables at full draw (with new cam mods installed). You have to twists bow in hand 90 degrees to the left at full draw to see the secondary stop location. If you have a spongy feeling at full draw then the secondary cables are making too much contact with the cables. Adjust stop peg in very small increments until the spongy feeling just barely goes away and then rig timing of drop away rest. After that is done, then you add twists to top cable as required to get 80% let-off. If you fool around with your drop away timing, you then have to reset let-off. That’s why twisting the cables a couple turns, should be complied with last. I wish I would have tested let-off at each step along the way to see if the stop peg or the cable twisting is responsible for the 80% let off.

Rick,

What tool are you using to check your let-off?

DaveC

Mildotmaster, I have been following your other thread about binaries and read it with much interest. Your description of the cables is exactly opposite of what I thought they were trying to tell me.I was all prepared to twist the cable on the outside of the top cam when the time comes to do so. I’m somewhat hoping my bow doesn’t show up until AFTER my dealer makes it to the Bowtech dealer’s school. I’m hoping they would show him what to do there.

I’m thinking of just shooting with a fixed rest until after he returns from the school.
Maybe I’ll have it figured out by then. Your dots won’t add up to my dot’s as your shooting an Allegiance, but the principle should be the same. Once I get a better grasp on what to do I planned on mimicking your bare shaft test to tune the bow best to my liking.

We were using his digital scale that showed the peak draw weight and holding weight on two different readouts. I didn’t catch the name on it though.

Lady Forge

Dave if you have the bow in specs from the factory 1st thing I do is mark my cams where the limb crosses them so I know if there is any string strech or other issues. When I put new sting and cables on my bow I measured the cables and the string to make sure they were made to the proper length and then I made sure that I had the same # of twists in each cable if I didnt have the same # of twists in each cable the cams wouldnt line up with my limb marks I made on the cams... then we used the Easton Bow Force Mapper to measure the draw weight and the holding weight to figure the letoff...
Draw Weight Minus Holding Weight Divided By Draw Weight= Letoff
Example:
70# draw. 26# Holding Weight
70 - 26 = 44/70 = 62.8% Letoff
Remember when you add 2 twists to the up cable when installing a dropaway through the cable or on the cable slide that the top cam will move out of alignment with your top cam limb marks you make on your cam
I wish I could of made the Bowtech Univertsity... there is still so much I want to and need to learn about the Bowtechs.
Found my2006 Bowtech Equalizerwas 32 7/8 A to A with a 7 " Brace Height as were all the other 2006 Bowtech Equalizer Model Bows in our shop... so I called Bowtech Tech Support and they informed me that the bow was supposed to be 33" A to A and the print specs that said they were 32 A to A and their website specs were a misprint... Hope this saves someone some headaches with their 06 Equalizer... I know it caused me some worry!!!!

Jerry/NJ

I havent called Bowtech yet but on my Allegiance, I took it out of the box and measured/marked everything from the factory and along the same lines, their website shows a 34" A2A for an Allegiance but I had 33 5/8"......so the head scratching begins[:'(]....well after changing a few things, I figured there is no way I can get a 7" BH and a 34" A2A! So Crackers told me most bows are showing up with 33 5/8" A2A measurements.
So if it seems weird, double check b4 you make any adjustments.

eugene1e®

{You said} my consti doesn't have the holes, and the tooling hole shouldn't be cut in half. that may be '05 info you're posting for it with the old, large cams.

{Now you say} eugene, strange because they didn't even have the cams on my bow in '05.

The 05 CONSTITUTION Had the same cam type just diffrent style the info I posted is for the 06 line up verified by bowtech take it for what it is its just a place to start