Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
06-09-2008, 12:54 PM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
Alright, I finally received my replacement part for my press, so I could get back to work on timing my cams on my 101st. Well, I got them to where they are just missing the cables when the o-ring is completely compressed. Problem is now the cables are not sitting in the center of the cable stop channels. In fact, as I draw the bow back, you can hear the edge of the cable clipping the outside edge of the cable stop. I have absolutely no idea why this is happening, but I can assume it's not good. Below, I've included pictures of the cams at full draw so you can see what I'm talking about:
Bottom Cam:
Top Cam:
Any suggestions?
Bottom Cam:
Top Cam:
Any suggestions?
06-09-2008, 01:26 PM
#3
Nontypical Buck
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: MECHDOC
What is the greything on the left side axel in picture?Is that how it is supposed to be?It looks like cam is leaning.
What is the greything on the left side axel in picture?Is that how it is supposed to be?It looks like cam is leaning.
06-09-2008, 02:06 PM
#5
Nontypical Buck
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: PABuck_HNTR
Are your cables crossed correctly on the rollers?
Are your cables crossed correctly on the rollers?
06-09-2008, 02:37 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 4,679
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
Could be a lot of things, including torque being applied with the way you are bringing it to full draw. I didn't do any of this stuff with my Constitution, just made sure the arrow**** the same spot from various parts of the draw cycle (creep tune), and that my DL was perfect.When the rubber meets the road a good creep tune and decent arrow flight is all that really matters when it comes to timing.With what I did to set mine up, it shoots good enough for me to hit 16 X's on a 30 target course from the open stakes yesterday.......[8D].
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
06-09-2008, 03:01 PM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: Rick James
Could be a lot of things, including torque being applied with the way you are bringing it to full draw. I didn't do any of this stuff with my Constitution, just made sure the arrow**** the same spot from various parts of the draw cycle (creep tune), and that my DL was perfect.When the rubber meets the road a good creep tune and decent arrow flight is all that really matters when it comes to timing.With what I did to set mine up, it shoots good enough for me to hit 16 X's on a 30 target course from the open stakes yesterday.......[8D].
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
Could be a lot of things, including torque being applied with the way you are bringing it to full draw. I didn't do any of this stuff with my Constitution, just made sure the arrow**** the same spot from various parts of the draw cycle (creep tune), and that my DL was perfect.When the rubber meets the road a good creep tune and decent arrow flight is all that really matters when it comes to timing.With what I did to set mine up, it shoots good enough for me to hit 16 X's on a 30 target course from the open stakes yesterday.......[8D].
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
As to creep tuning, I'm not sure exactly how well I will be able to creep tune this thing. It about wants to rip my arm out of its socket whenever I catch myself creeping. There's very little valley on these things, so it may be hard to shoot from the front of it, but I'll give it a try. Thanks for the advice.
06-09-2008, 03:15 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 4,679
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: MGH_PA
The cable stop edges are actually hitting my cables though, which is a concerning since the cable should obviously be hitting in the center of the channel. It could quite possibly be due to the torque from me drawing it from the hook. I'm going to get around to building a draw board, but a 3/4"x4" j-hook set into a floor joist probably isn't going to go anywhere...the bow could take your head of if you're not careful though when you let it up
As to creep tuning, I'm not sure exactly how well I will be able to creep tune this thing. It about wants to rip my arm out of its socket whenever I catch myself creeping. There's very little valley on these things, so it may be hard to shoot from the front of it, but I'll give it a try. Thanks for the advice.
ORIGINAL: Rick James
Could be a lot of things, including torque being applied with the way you are bringing it to full draw. I didn't do any of this stuff with my Constitution, just made sure the arrow**** the same spot from various parts of the draw cycle (creep tune), and that my DL was perfect.When the rubber meets the road a good creep tune and decent arrow flight is all that really matters when it comes to timing.With what I did to set mine up, it shoots good enough for me to hit 16 X's on a 30 target course from the open stakes yesterday.......[8D].
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
Could be a lot of things, including torque being applied with the way you are bringing it to full draw. I didn't do any of this stuff with my Constitution, just made sure the arrow**** the same spot from various parts of the draw cycle (creep tune), and that my DL was perfect.When the rubber meets the road a good creep tune and decent arrow flight is all that really matters when it comes to timing.With what I did to set mine up, it shoots good enough for me to hit 16 X's on a 30 target course from the open stakes yesterday.......[8D].
Also as a side note.................it scares the crap outta meseeing you guys use a hook in the rafters to check this stuff. One mistake and that bow would take your head off on the way back up, and god only knows what would happen if that hook came out. Seriously, build yourself a draw board. It's only gonna cost you like $50 and it way safer than what your doing and much more practical as well.
As to creep tuning, I'm not sure exactly how well I will be able to creep tune this thing. It about wants to rip my arm out of its socket whenever I catch myself creeping. There's very little valley on these things, so it may be hard to shoot from the front of it, but I'll give it a try. Thanks for the advice.
06-09-2008, 03:59 PM
#9
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cogan Station, PA
Posts: 2,298
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: Rick James
....then you can forget about all this cam timing nonsense and start worrying about what really matters........the guy behind it.
....then you can forget about all this cam timing nonsense and start worrying about what really matters........the guy behind it.
In all seriousness, though, I went out and did some blank baling just now and was looking at my cable stops when drawn normally, and sure enough, the cables are not centered (they're sitting offset in the channel). What's worse is my cables have wear marks now where they cable stops are pinching when they come to rest. Should this be of concern?
06-09-2008, 04:05 PM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 4,679
RE: Bowtech Guys...And non-bowtech...cable stop issue
ORIGINAL: MGH_PA
I suck, so I'm trying to come up with technical excuses In all seriousness, though, I went out and did some blank baling just now and was looking at my cable stops when drawn normally, and sure enough, the cables are not centered (they're sitting offset in the channel). What's worse is my cables have wear marks now where they cable stops are pinching when they come to rest. Should this be of concern?
ORIGINAL: Rick James
....then you can forget about all this cam timing nonsense and start worrying about what really matters........the guy behind it.
....then you can forget about all this cam timing nonsense and start worrying about what really matters........the guy behind it.
In all seriousness, though, I went out and did some blank baling just now and was looking at my cable stops when drawn normally, and sure enough, the cables are not centered (they're sitting offset in the channel). What's worse is my cables have wear marks now where they cable stops are pinching when they come to rest. Should this be of concern?