RE: QUICK HELP- Bowtech mod & draw stop chart?
DaveC,
The guys helping you here online, have way more experience than I do with these bows. I just got into archery a couple months ago. What is listed below in this paragraph is throwing me way off. Rick James post on page one has a great picture with the red and blue arrows; however, I obtained my 80% let-off by doing exactly the opposite of what he has listed. Maybe I’m crazy, but my bow is dead-on accurate and dead-on 80% let-off. I have tested my bows accuracy with the let-off set the way Rick listed and the accuracy wasn’t the best it could be. His way did give me a bigger valley, but my bow also felt sloppy at full draw and accuracy wasn’t there. Now my bow feels very tight, it’s accurate; I have a solid wall and 80% let-off. I couldn’t ask for more. See below for what I did to tune my bow.
Seems nobody has used your terminology yet to help you understand what cable to twist to restore your let-off to 80%. I adjusted my cable twists to best accuracy, which happened to be at 80% let-off. So with using your words, the top cable nearest the axle is the cable to add the twists to (the cable that makes a tighter bend). For example my top cam has 5.5 dots past limb and my lower cam has 4.75 dots past limb. This was achieved by adding twists to my top cable closets to the axle. I have a very accurate scale system and it was right at 14 pounds hold weight for a 70 pound bow. My stop peg is in the 80% position and the secondary stops are just kissing the cables at full draw (with new cam mods installed). You have to twists bow in hand 90 degrees to the left at full draw to see the secondary stop location. If you have a spongy feeling at full draw then the secondary cables are making too much contact with the cables. Adjust stop peg in very small increments until the spongy feeling just barely goes away and then rig timing of drop away rest. After that is done, then you add twists to top cable as required to get 80% let-off. If you fool around with your drop away timing, you then have to reset let-off. That’s why twisting the cables a couple turns, should be complied with last. I wish I would have tested let-off at each step along the way to see if the stop peg or the cable twisting is responsible for the 80% let off.
Rick,
What tool are you using to check your let-off?