help with trap shooting
03-28-2004, 09:09 PM
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: May 2003
Location:
Posts: 920
RE: help with trap shooting
DearSlayer, try going to trap shooting or shotgun sports the both offer a wealth of information and have forums also.
doubleA
doubleA
03-29-2004, 08:44 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Coralville, IA. USA
Posts: 3,802
RE: help with trap shooting
I'm a pretty good trap shooter, but I've never had any "formal" training, so to speak. I've just been shooting trap since I was a kid and I think it's just practice. But I'll give you some tips that I picked up along the way.
First, using the right choke is important. A clay pidgeon is a small target so pattern density is important. Use too little choke and there's more chance that the clay will fly right through your pattern untouched. I always shoot full choke as do most others, regardless of which yard line I'm shooting from (I shoot from whatever line the others in my group want to shoot on, I'm not picky. I do OK back to 24 yards then my scores start to drop off). Full choke ensures the pattern is dense enough to break any clay that gets in its way. It also allows you to "read" your breaks. By reading your breaks I mean that even if you hit the clays consistantly, you can tell if you're overleading, underleading, or shooting over or under by watching which direction the broken pieces of the clay go when hit. For instance, if you are shooting from station 3 (the middle station directly behind the trap house), and you have a clay fly almost straight out and when you break it one or two pieces fly off to the right with the rest of the clay continuing straight or veering left, it means that you hit it with the left fringe of your pattern. In other words, your shot was off to the right a bit. This is really helpful when dealing with figuring out whether you're leading a little too much or too little on the high deflection shots, and will also diagnose if you're bead is too far under the bird al well. Most people I see don't have too many problems with shooting over the clay, because if you did it'd probably be blocked out by the barrel and you wouldn't see it. Most people have lead/swing problems, or shoot under the clays. Of course, the goal is to dust 'em every time. Not only does that mean that you're dead on, but it's also kindof cool to watch!
[8D]
Use #8 shot, with at least 3/4oz of shot. I use the cheap Winchester Universal #8 1 1/4oz. trap/skeet loads that come 4 boxes for $15 at Wal-mart. They arent the greatest for reloading if you want the hulls to last more than one or two reloads, but since I don't reload shotshells I don't care. I shoot them and leave them lie, because there are a half dozen guys who circle like vultures for any hulls they can get, including mine. The reason is once again pattern density. Smaller pellets means more pellets, and more pellets in the same area means higher pattern density. Some guys who shoot handicap from the 27 yard line use #7 1/2 shot and extra full chokes to give them the ability to really reach out and touch 'em at a distance. But these are also guys who've been shooting trap longer than I've been breathing, so they can get away with it!
At the 16 yard line where you'll do most of your shooting for awhile, you'll be close enough that #8 is more than big enough to break clays every time.
Keep both eyes open, depth perception is important because the farther away the clay is the more you have to lead it.
When I shoulder my shotgun where I initially hold the bead depends on which station I'm at. If I'm at station 1 or 5 (the end stations), I hold on the top corner of the trap house closest to me. At station 2 & 4 I hold on the top edge of the trap house midway between the center and the closest corner. And at station 3 I hold at the top edge and centered on the trap house. The reason is to make sure I'm below and not too far behind the clay when it first becomes visible. If, for instance, you always aimed at the center of the trap house, and you were at station 1 (far left) and had a clay come out crossing to your left then you'd be way behind it from the get-go, and you have to swing very fast to catch up and will probably miss. Some guys prefer to always hold on the stake that's about 10ft in front of the trap house, but it's really personal preference.
Swing smoothly with the clay and follow through. Don't try to snap shoot unless you have an uncanny knack for timing and hand-eye coordination, because you'll more often than not miss. Did I mention, FOLLOW THROUGH! Lake just about every other sport it's important, so just do it. Nobody will laugh at you, especially the folks that don't follow through whos butts you just stomped![8D]
Get yourself a shell box holder that clips to your belt, or a trap vest to hold your live shells. The other four guys shooting with you won't like you much if you're fumbling in your pockets for loose shells, or dropping them on the ground. And if you do drop a shell, let everybody know that you're going to get it before you do.
If you have a hard time seeing the clays against the background, there are shooting glasses available with specially colored red lenses that make red and orange clays stand out like flares. Some guys also wear blinders on their glasses because either they are easily distracted by the guys next to them, or they fancy themselves horses. I don't use them.
If you are saving your hulls to be reloaded, make sure you have a way to catch them before they hit the ground. Don't pick up hulls from the ground during a round, it's not safe, and I guarantee the other guys won't be amused when you flag them. Many guys with O/U's have the ejectors set so they extract but don't eject the shells, and there are little devices that you can clip over the ejection port of a semi-auto or pump that catches the spent shell in the port.
Don't load your gun until it's your turn to shoot. Load only one shell at a time unless shooting doubles.
When you have to rotate from station 5 to station 1, always walk behind the other shooters for obvious reasons.
If you are the on the station farthest to the left when you begin, it is customary for you, the first shooter, to ask the other shooters if they are ready, then ask the scorekeeper if he's ready, and then ask "to see one." The scorekeeper will then throw one clay so everybody can see how it flies and if it crosses the post at the perscribed height. If it's too high or low then the trap thrower should be adjusted (but it's rare at clubs with high quality equipment).
I can't think of anything else, other than practice, practice, practice.
Mike
First, using the right choke is important. A clay pidgeon is a small target so pattern density is important. Use too little choke and there's more chance that the clay will fly right through your pattern untouched. I always shoot full choke as do most others, regardless of which yard line I'm shooting from (I shoot from whatever line the others in my group want to shoot on, I'm not picky. I do OK back to 24 yards then my scores start to drop off). Full choke ensures the pattern is dense enough to break any clay that gets in its way. It also allows you to "read" your breaks. By reading your breaks I mean that even if you hit the clays consistantly, you can tell if you're overleading, underleading, or shooting over or under by watching which direction the broken pieces of the clay go when hit. For instance, if you are shooting from station 3 (the middle station directly behind the trap house), and you have a clay fly almost straight out and when you break it one or two pieces fly off to the right with the rest of the clay continuing straight or veering left, it means that you hit it with the left fringe of your pattern. In other words, your shot was off to the right a bit. This is really helpful when dealing with figuring out whether you're leading a little too much or too little on the high deflection shots, and will also diagnose if you're bead is too far under the bird al well. Most people I see don't have too many problems with shooting over the clay, because if you did it'd probably be blocked out by the barrel and you wouldn't see it. Most people have lead/swing problems, or shoot under the clays. Of course, the goal is to dust 'em every time. Not only does that mean that you're dead on, but it's also kindof cool to watch!
[8D]Use #8 shot, with at least 3/4oz of shot. I use the cheap Winchester Universal #8 1 1/4oz. trap/skeet loads that come 4 boxes for $15 at Wal-mart. They arent the greatest for reloading if you want the hulls to last more than one or two reloads, but since I don't reload shotshells I don't care. I shoot them and leave them lie, because there are a half dozen guys who circle like vultures for any hulls they can get, including mine. The reason is once again pattern density. Smaller pellets means more pellets, and more pellets in the same area means higher pattern density. Some guys who shoot handicap from the 27 yard line use #7 1/2 shot and extra full chokes to give them the ability to really reach out and touch 'em at a distance. But these are also guys who've been shooting trap longer than I've been breathing, so they can get away with it!
At the 16 yard line where you'll do most of your shooting for awhile, you'll be close enough that #8 is more than big enough to break clays every time. Keep both eyes open, depth perception is important because the farther away the clay is the more you have to lead it.
When I shoulder my shotgun where I initially hold the bead depends on which station I'm at. If I'm at station 1 or 5 (the end stations), I hold on the top corner of the trap house closest to me. At station 2 & 4 I hold on the top edge of the trap house midway between the center and the closest corner. And at station 3 I hold at the top edge and centered on the trap house. The reason is to make sure I'm below and not too far behind the clay when it first becomes visible. If, for instance, you always aimed at the center of the trap house, and you were at station 1 (far left) and had a clay come out crossing to your left then you'd be way behind it from the get-go, and you have to swing very fast to catch up and will probably miss. Some guys prefer to always hold on the stake that's about 10ft in front of the trap house, but it's really personal preference.
Swing smoothly with the clay and follow through. Don't try to snap shoot unless you have an uncanny knack for timing and hand-eye coordination, because you'll more often than not miss. Did I mention, FOLLOW THROUGH! Lake just about every other sport it's important, so just do it. Nobody will laugh at you, especially the folks that don't follow through whos butts you just stomped!
[8D] Get yourself a shell box holder that clips to your belt, or a trap vest to hold your live shells. The other four guys shooting with you won't like you much if you're fumbling in your pockets for loose shells, or dropping them on the ground. And if you do drop a shell, let everybody know that you're going to get it before you do.
If you have a hard time seeing the clays against the background, there are shooting glasses available with specially colored red lenses that make red and orange clays stand out like flares. Some guys also wear blinders on their glasses because either they are easily distracted by the guys next to them, or they fancy themselves horses. I don't use them.
If you are saving your hulls to be reloaded, make sure you have a way to catch them before they hit the ground. Don't pick up hulls from the ground during a round, it's not safe, and I guarantee the other guys won't be amused when you flag them. Many guys with O/U's have the ejectors set so they extract but don't eject the shells, and there are little devices that you can clip over the ejection port of a semi-auto or pump that catches the spent shell in the port.
Don't load your gun until it's your turn to shoot. Load only one shell at a time unless shooting doubles.
When you have to rotate from station 5 to station 1, always walk behind the other shooters for obvious reasons.
If you are the on the station farthest to the left when you begin, it is customary for you, the first shooter, to ask the other shooters if they are ready, then ask the scorekeeper if he's ready, and then ask "to see one." The scorekeeper will then throw one clay so everybody can see how it flies and if it crosses the post at the perscribed height. If it's too high or low then the trap thrower should be adjusted (but it's rare at clubs with high quality equipment).
I can't think of anything else, other than practice, practice, practice.
Mike
03-29-2004, 09:45 PM
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 242
RE: help with trap shooting
good pointers! that's about my game plan when i go... i have only shot trap maye 10 times, but i shoot about 17-20 out of 25, so not ad. i still want to improve though... i will try the full, i usually use modified cylindar for it...
03-29-2004, 10:02 PM
#6
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Coralville, IA. USA
Posts: 3,802
RE: help with trap shooting
I think that you'll find that you have a lot fewer times when you're just SURE that you should have broke the bird when you didn't if you go with full choke. My average rose from about 21/25 to 23-24/25 when I did. And the ability to read your breaks really help a lot to see where your problems are. I don't shoot as much as I should due to the costs ($3.75/box of shells and $4/round adds up quick), and I'd love to join the leagues if I could afford the time and money, but with school don't have either as much as I'd need.
I do get a kick out of showing up at the trap club with my BPS and schooling some guy with a $3000 purpose built trap gun. I never gloat, but I do get a little kick out of seeing the looks on their faces when I beat them round after round! Must be the blinders, I think!
Just goes to show that it's not about the gun so much as the guy behind the trigger. I will admit that my Browning does shoot very nice pattern, and fits me about perfectly, so that probably helps, but I didn't shell out $3000+ for it either! Not to begrudge all guys with high dollar trap guns, because there are some guys that are very, very good, but I do think that many have them just to fit in or because they think they "need" such a gun to shoot well. To each their own, right?
Mike
I do get a kick out of showing up at the trap club with my BPS and schooling some guy with a $3000 purpose built trap gun. I never gloat, but I do get a little kick out of seeing the looks on their faces when I beat them round after round! Must be the blinders, I think!
Just goes to show that it's not about the gun so much as the guy behind the trigger. I will admit that my Browning does shoot very nice pattern, and fits me about perfectly, so that probably helps, but I didn't shell out $3000+ for it either! Not to begrudge all guys with high dollar trap guns, because there are some guys that are very, very good, but I do think that many have them just to fit in or because they think they "need" such a gun to shoot well. To each their own, right?Mike
