deer-hunter18,
The main thing is start with timing your cam. This is done by twisting your cable and both ends of your string. Check your timing holes in your cam and see if they are parallel with your string.Twisting your cable on the cam end will rotate your cam clockwise. Twisting the string equal amounts on each end will rotate the cam counter clockwise. Once your cam is timed checked all your specs with the limb bolts bottomed out. You can then make minor changes in the cable and string to bring the other measurements in spec. Keep in mind. Twisting your cable adds draw weight, and increases draw length. Twisting your string does the opposite, decreses draw weight and draw length., so it is a combination of these that will get your specs back in.

My brother-in-law purchased the Switchback at the same time I got my Allegiance and I gave him alot of grief for it but I shot it and it is a really nice bow. He has however had a real problem tuning it with consistent left tears and the pro shop said they have experienced this problem with several of the Switchbacks. I don't know the cause but told him if his bow was grouping well don't worry about it. He has been shooting it for about 2 months now and it shoots great so far. To all Allegiance shooters though your right the Switchback just can't keep up. The Allegiance is my first Bowtech after years of shooting Hoyt and Mathews and this is one of the finest shooters I've shot.

I haven't put enough arrows through a Switchback to know if there is a particular issue with that bow/cam, however left tears are EXTREMELY common with Mathews bows due to the grip shape/style.

For those not used to the Mathews grips (regardless whether its the classic/comp/inline, etc) , or the proper way to grip a bow, a left tear that cannot be corrected with normal arrow/rest tuning procedures(for a RH shooter) is unfortunately often the result.

Well guys, Brad and Larry went to a pro-shop today, they are there right now, so when they get back I will let ya'll know what happened and what was wrong!

As far as the left tear issue is concerned on the SB, it is an easy fix! The idler wheel is leaning slightly, so no matter how far you move your rest the tear stays. Draw the bow and have someone stand behind you. They can tell you which way the idler is leaning. Then press the bow and give the opposite side split cable a couple twists and check it again. Do this until the idler is straight at full draw and try the paper tune again. You will have bullet hole very quick!!

Yes, The cause of most of the left tear issued have been idler lean. Mine was leaning right causing my string to track right. This caused my left tear. I have had bullet holes since the adjustment to the left cable yoke. I do feel the Switchback is a little more sensitive to torque than the other Mathews. This is my 5th Mathews bow, and it is definetly the most sensitive to tune, but it shoots so well that it is worth the extra tuning. Very smooth, quiet, and vibration free bow, and pretty quick too!