New hunter question
12-11-2004, 02:18 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cross Lanes, WV
Posts: 67
New hunter question
This is my first year hunting. Deer season didn't go real well but a friend of mine wants to take me bear hunting. I'll be using a Winchester 12ga. pump with Remington Sluggers. My question is, what is the best shot placement ? Is it the same as a deer ? Also, you're not aloud to use bait in WV, how would you suggest I hunt them ? Can you use a ground blind like you would with deer ? I dont have a tree stand. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Steve
Steve
12-13-2004, 09:12 PM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chester Pa USA
Posts: 39
RE: New hunter question
Guide I konw in NY likes to shoot them in the shoulder so they go down fast and can't run away , i think its because he has seen people lose them because the blood trail peters out pretty fast from the fat clogging the wound.
That said i shot 1 with a 30-06 ,220 grain bullet just behind the front shoulder , hewent nowwhere, i would probably not take a shot dead on at the sternum , but .... might get too excited to not shoot too. ..
Hel likes 12 guage slugs for bear also , but myself i liked the 30-06
That said i shot 1 with a 30-06 ,220 grain bullet just behind the front shoulder , hewent nowwhere, i would probably not take a shot dead on at the sternum , but .... might get too excited to not shoot too. ..
Hel likes 12 guage slugs for bear also , but myself i liked the 30-06
12-14-2004, 08:22 AM
#6
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location:
Posts: 52
RE: New hunter question
Handloader cites a very good reference book. Boddington knows his stuff well.
A PH and a veterinarian by profession, Kevin Robertson (I believe that's his name) wrote a prior addition dealing with African game. Anatomical diagrams are accurate. Both of these books are available though Safari Press.
Always make sure to use enough gun for the animal you are pursuing. If you don't use the right caliber/ammo and aim for a shoulder of bone, you rick fragmenting/shattering a little bone and not even contacting the vitals. I favor my Browning .30-06, but, for example, on some African game a .270 or .375H&H is recommended or in some cases required.
For thin skinned NA game like whitetails, if presented with a broadside shot with time for near-perfect placement, you can shoot directly behind the shoulder so as not to take out the shoulder and ruin too much meat. But when you are dealing with dangerous game or an animal you really don't want to run (which should theoretically be any species), playing it safe and breaking that shoulder upon entrance into the vitals usually anchors the animal and drops him. Thicker-skinned animals or those who are "slow to give up the ghost" may require a heavier caliber, a mushrooming bullet (e.g. Trophy-bonded bearclaw by Federal) and/or patience for a quartering-to/fro or broadside shot. In my opinion, you have one of the widest ranges of error if you can select for a broadside shoulder shot. Use caution though, as too low of a shot will probably just give your quarry a broken leg, not the clean kill we want.
Check out those books, and best of luck to you!
Kimberly
-------------------
Field Staff Writer, WomenHunters
A PH and a veterinarian by profession, Kevin Robertson (I believe that's his name) wrote a prior addition dealing with African game. Anatomical diagrams are accurate. Both of these books are available though Safari Press.
Always make sure to use enough gun for the animal you are pursuing. If you don't use the right caliber/ammo and aim for a shoulder of bone, you rick fragmenting/shattering a little bone and not even contacting the vitals. I favor my Browning .30-06, but, for example, on some African game a .270 or .375H&H is recommended or in some cases required.
For thin skinned NA game like whitetails, if presented with a broadside shot with time for near-perfect placement, you can shoot directly behind the shoulder so as not to take out the shoulder and ruin too much meat. But when you are dealing with dangerous game or an animal you really don't want to run (which should theoretically be any species), playing it safe and breaking that shoulder upon entrance into the vitals usually anchors the animal and drops him. Thicker-skinned animals or those who are "slow to give up the ghost" may require a heavier caliber, a mushrooming bullet (e.g. Trophy-bonded bearclaw by Federal) and/or patience for a quartering-to/fro or broadside shot. In my opinion, you have one of the widest ranges of error if you can select for a broadside shoulder shot. Use caution though, as too low of a shot will probably just give your quarry a broken leg, not the clean kill we want.
Check out those books, and best of luck to you!
Kimberly
-------------------
Field Staff Writer, WomenHunters
12-14-2004, 08:47 AM
#7
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wall SD USA & Jamestown ND
Posts: 11,474
RE: New hunter question
My Bear hunting has all been from tree stands and all with the 45-70. I like the high shoulder shot if they are broad side and the spine if its a straigh above shot. I assume you are talking about Black Bear?
12-27-2004, 09:28 AM
#8
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 5
RE: New hunter question
Hi Steve ....
First - if you're using a 12 gauge - ONLY use "copper solid" slugs. Lead slugs shatter on impact and the bear will eventually die - IF you find it. It can go for a mile with those little pieces of lead thoughout it's body.
Second - shot placement is excellent if you use this method ..
- imagine drawing a line down the middle of the bear from head to tail - right in the center - then draw another imaginary line vertically in half. Where these two lines meet - come ahead toward the head about 6" - THAT'S the perfect kill zone. The bear will bolt and drop within 20 yards. AND the copper solid slug will stay intact.
If there's anything else you'd like to know - OR - you can view the success of my personal methods ... please drop by my web site.
www.goldeneaglecamp.com
Good Luck Steve.
First - if you're using a 12 gauge - ONLY use "copper solid" slugs. Lead slugs shatter on impact and the bear will eventually die - IF you find it. It can go for a mile with those little pieces of lead thoughout it's body.
Second - shot placement is excellent if you use this method ..
- imagine drawing a line down the middle of the bear from head to tail - right in the center - then draw another imaginary line vertically in half. Where these two lines meet - come ahead toward the head about 6" - THAT'S the perfect kill zone. The bear will bolt and drop within 20 yards. AND the copper solid slug will stay intact.
If there's anything else you'd like to know - OR - you can view the success of my personal methods ... please drop by my web site.
www.goldeneaglecamp.com
Good Luck Steve.
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