slim9300

I am having problems with my WB Deluxe. I must turn my vanes so that the inside vane faces the cable. This way the only damage to my vanes comes from my cable. (On a side note, I have my cables adjusted as far tweaked out as possible) The other two vanes are never affected. However, when I turn my vanes to avoid hitting my cable, the two lower vanes are damaged on the metal biscuit holder that protrudes into the circle. I tried using feathers, figuring that they may lay down better. But they don't work at all. They shoot a very inconsistent group and are tweaked also. I would guess that this is due to the large width of the feathers. Any help on which way to move the rest...

I really love this rest, it shoots very accurately with a newly vaned arrow. I have about a 6'' group or less at 40 yards with an arrow that has only been shot 20 times or less. And it allowed me to kill my third elk this year and I don't turn 20 years old until November.

Oh yeah, I shoot a Pearson Silencer Bow @ 77 lbs with Carbon Express CX-400 30'' arrows. The vanes are right cylinderical 4'' Carbon Express vanes. And I shoot fingers.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Conlan

atlasman

That is awesome man.............glad you got it straightened out.

Makes you wonder sometimes how qualified someone has to be before they turn them loose on people's bows []

atlasman

Way outta my league.............wish I could help but I wouldn't know where to start.........especially with you shooting fingers.

If your bottom vanes are slamming into the rest's outer ring then I would say your nocking point is too high or your rest is too low. I would check your nocked arrow position and see if it is level (90 degrees) to your string.

I'm sure your problem is much more complex then that and the cable contact I really have no clue on.

Wish I could help more.

Hopefully one of the gurus around here will give you some advice.


Good Luck and congrats on your 3rd Elk. Sounds like you shoot pretty darn well as it is!!

akaSharkey

Atlasman I have to disagree with you. The duravanes I shoot just dont hold up. They are on Goldtips with a 6 degree helical. They ripple like crazy. My bow shoots 305 fps through the crono. I dont know if the speed has something to do with it. I switched to Bohnning vanes and the problem disappeared. It is a B2 bisquit and I did not move it between the different vane types.Bohnnings look new and Duravanes look like this.

The bow is tuned perfectly, shoots great through paper. The duravanes are just too soft in my opinion. I have seen some pictures of vanes going through a bisquit taken with a high speed camera. They ripple on the way through. Some less than others. None of them were hitting the ring that holds the bristles.

HighDesertWolf

At dicks the only experience needed to tune a bow is what ever they put on their application, someone could lie through their teeth and say they have 10 years experience and BAM!!! they are now a full service bow technician. I would never let any fool at dicks even just look at my bow those guys are all quacks.

atlasman

All I can tell you.........and show you is how Duravanes look when shot from my bow. I shoot a Bowtech Patriot at 278 fps. My vanes are are not a 6 degree helical. They are 2 degree offset.

Maybe the extra 20 some fps combined with the helical is too much for the duravanes..........I don't know.

I so know that the Bohning vanes are tougher no doubt.........however they also took noticable damage out of my bow in just a few shots.

IMO and Experience a properly tuned bow is more important then what vane you shoot.


If you see no damage to your new Bohning vanes then I would stick with them.........especially if your bow is well tuned like you have said.

slim9300

Thanks for you help. For some reason I wasn't subscribed to the thread and didn't receive the response notification e-mail. But I have a correction to make to what I said, I am shooting the WB QS Deluxe, which is designed differently then the non-QS model. I took some pictures of what I was talking about and have come to some conclusions on my own. However, I lost the damn usb cable to download the pics from my camera, so I will just use a picture of the specific rest and my words for now. Here is the picture of the rest: (notice the holder/bracket on the bottom with the two allen screws, it may not look like it but it actually reduces the size of the biscuit in that 3/4'' area...)



What is happening is that the vanes will clear the outer ring without any contact. And the result is that two of the three vanes remain perfect. However, the vane that faces down toward that metal biscuit brace/bracket comes into contact with it. This is mainly because the brace/bracket reduces the circular bristle area. Then as one can imagine, I have damage to that one vane. You can actually see the marks from the vane on this brace/bracket where the vane is hitting. From this you would conclude that my arrow must not be level, however it is. Or at least the bow shop used a level to setup my rest and nock point, I watched them. I have a feeling this problem originates from finger torque, a result of shooting with fingers.

Anyways, I figured that there must be a solution, without switching to a release. So I thought of a few things that may fix the problem. First, I tried shooting feathers, figuring that they would lay down when they come in contact with the bracket/brace. This didn't work. Feathers are much wider then a vane and do not pass through the biscuit smoothly. Again, this is from my experience, but they grouped very badly. Not to mention they were damaged just as badly on that one side. Then I came to the realization that they make vanes with a shorter hight. So I figured that if I shot a shorter vane, meaning height, not length, I would possibly clear the lower bracket/brace. But I haven't had a chance to give this theory a try. What do you think, will it work? Also, I plan on swiching from the standard duravanes that Carbon Express uses to the Bohnnings. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.

slim9300

Notice how the damage only occurs to one of the three vanes. Well, if you problem was based solely on your arrow passing through the biscuit too quickely and heat warping, then wouldn't all three vanes become equally rippled? It seems that your vane that is being damaged is coming into contact with the outer edge of the biscuit or the biscuit's bracket/brace much like mine is. Maybe the new bohnnings that you switched to have a shorter height and clear what ever your duravanes were hitting. But this could be optimistic thinking. Anyways, I obviously have my own problems.

MA8191

I have the Drop Tine version of the Biscuit on my Justice. I am shooting 4" feathers with a 6 degree helical. The feathers all sustain some damage over time, but the one at the 4 o'clock position is the worst. My theory is that since the other two feathers are on either side of the opening where you load the arrow, there is more give to the fibers where those feathers pass through. The feather at 4 o'clock is about opposite the opening, where the fibers would have the least give as the fletching passes through.

I was wondering if it is typical for the vane in this position to also take more damage.

I am thinking of trying some vanes. The CAP website recommends the Bohnings and also Flex Fletch. Some people on this site rave about the Bohning Blazers also.

Joe...

I just registered here and felt compelled to reply to this thread. I have been shooting fingers for more than twenty years, and have always used flipper rests, & springy rests. I am intrigued by the WB, and almost bought one. However, it has been my belief (hunch) that the dynamics of an arrow when released from fingers is going to be problematic with a rest that "contains" the arrow. Since the arrow has to roll off the tips of the fingers and move to the left pretty sharply (for a right handed shooter), it seems that the WB is inviting trouble. That said, I want to hear from someone who has had no problems with it while shooting fingers. Alternatively, what other rests are people having success with for finger shooting? Thanks.