One last look........no visible wear or rippling......and no streaks.

Now that I saw the stiffer Bohning vanes made it though with no problems I moved on to the softer Duravanes which took such a beating out of the untuned WB..........same Carbon Express arrow.......same rest......same bow........only now it is tuned properly.

One more look at the Duravanes. No wear, no rippling and no streaks.

Thanks, nice post. I'm having the same problem. I'm shooting Carbon Express Terminator Hunter Select arrows and I have recently had a WB installed. I purchased and had Gander Mtn. install the WB for me. My vanes look like s***. Exactly like the images you provided. I'm not experienced enough to mess with my rest, do you have any recommendations? I could have them recheck it, but who knows if it will be right.

Take from this whatever you want. I have always said that 99.9% of people that have problems with a WB are shooting one that is not set up properly.

This little "experiement" really opened my eyes as to how and why some people out there cry about the WB tearing up vanes.........it can really do a number on them if it is setup poorly. It is just a shame that they blame the rest when a couple quick adjustments is all they need.

If you think about it the fact that the WB visibly marks vanes when poorly tuned is actually a GOOD thing. In no time flat you know that you need to get your gear tweaked because something is not right.........some people can't follow arrow flight well when shooting so this is a good method of instant feedback on your tune job.

It's a real shame that more people out there don't realize this and just rip the rest off or just think they have to live with it. A WB doesn't damage vanes..........a poorly setup one does.

Anyone out there that is ripping up vanes should go back to whoever setup your WB on your bow and tell them they need to fix it and refletch your arrows because they did a poor job and that is why your vanes are ruined.

If I were you I would find someone that is experienced enough to tune your rest or go to Easton's website and download the tuning guide and see what you can do yourself. It is really quite simple and if you mark where your rest is BEFORE you start to move it then no matter how bad you screw up you can always get back to where you started.

Good luck man............I feel bad for you. I think there are MANY guys like you out there that are at the mercy of a shop or store clerk that presents themselves as knowing what they are doing.............then they cover their mistakes by saying the rest is no good.

As I said in another thread , if everyone shooting the WB had the correct spine arrows and had their bow tuned to their arrows there wouldn't be a B2 biscuit.

Ya, this is my first bow hunting season, so when I first got my bow I relied on shops to set it up for me. Thanks to this forum and lot's of practice, I'm doing more and more myself. I'll take a look at the tuning guide you suggested.

I know what the problem is... your shooting carbon!!

[:'(]

Atlasman,

How far from centershot was the bow that caused the vane damage? I image it was WAY off!! I use to use the WB and actually loved the rest but like many I fell into the "Drop Away" craze. I love my NAP 2000RG and wouldn't use anything else except maybe back to the WB. I had amazing accuracy with mine and I use right helical feathers. My feathers did wear some but honestly the Tuned WB is just as accurate as my drop away if you want the honsest truth, very little difference in group size except out to 60+ yds then like I said very little difference. A lot of people will can argue this point but they really need to shoot one that is properly tuned to see the point. Very good post!

Here's a test I performed on the same bow with both the NAP 2000RG (before fine tuning, set only at Mathews recommended center shot of 13/16" from riser) and a well tuned WB (7 shots total using the WB with 4 shots in the one ragged hole!)