TFOX

With the armslap,make sure you rotate your hand over so your hand is basically perpendicular to the grip.This will create much more space for the string to clear.It will also reduce the torque.If you are having trouble with arm slap then I would also assume that there is induced torque going on.Reducing draw length can help but it is a bandaid cure and not fixing the real problem.


You can also cause torque with your face.Your anchor may be the problem but that is real easy to check.Just hold the string away from your face when you shoot it through paper to see what the tear looks like.With certain releases,I have a big problem with this.


My 9 year old daughter is doing the same thing with her grip and she is starting to get the message that if she doesn't get the grip right, then shooting a bow is more painfull than fun.

mrfritz44

Not sure which way you mean I should rotate.......is that a high or low grip? I'm also experimenting with different grips and anchors, including the "thumb behind the neck" anchor point technique.

I'm stopping by the hardware store on my way home to get some PVC for a permanent paper tuning setup. Based on some advice from a semi-local archery nut I met last year I'm going to try a bare shaft paper tune at close range, then see where that takes me. It's a technique I used years ago with a much slower bow, and despite my initial thoughts about it, I hear it still has application with today's faster bows. It apparently takes extremely fine adjustments to get it right. TFOX, you also seem to have faith in it.

This guy swares he can get an arrow to hit fieldpoint true regardless of broadhead size so I'll give it a try.

Thanks for all the comments so far!

Fritz

TFOX

Generally speaking,the thumb behind the neck is a bad idea and if you are easily getting your thumb behind your neck,then there is a good chance your draw is a bit too long.Like I said generally speaking.Some have succes doing it but most will peak out with their ability before they should when using this method.



I mean using a low wrist method.You will not be able to get your wrist completely rotated perpendicular but you should rotate your wrist to move your fingers away from the grip.You should also keep the hand and fingers relaxed.Trey to find pictures of the pros.Most of them have real good hand position.Most bow web sites have pictures of their pros.At least Hoyt does.


This kind of stuff is really hard to understand over the net but you can get some starting points.



I think getting your own paper tuner can be a help but use it as a learning tool as much as anything and don't put too much emphasis on bulletholes untill you have a greater understanding of just how much the shooter can affect the reading.

PABowhntr

Fred,

I know what TFOX is referring to and can show it to you when we get together next time.

mrfritz44

I searched the manufacturer's sites last night and saw what I think you guys mean. It looks as though the hand actually sticks up at a 45 degree angle while the shooter's forearm is perpendicular to the bow at the lowest point of the grip. I shot out back last night and tried it, but I didn't shoot enough to conclude it was consistent. The few groups I did shoot were nice so I'll revisit it next time out, especially since the pros obviously find it the thing to do. I do think I'll avoid the thumb behind the neck method of anchoring.

I also played with tiller for the first time last night since it seemed to be a prerequisite to micro-tuning. I backed the lower limb off 1/8th of a turn and it did seem to reduce the tendency of my aiming point to drop. I intend to watch this setting as well.

I'll be out back this afternoon playing with the PVC paper tuning rack I made last night. I'm still convinced I can get those elusive bullet holes! A friend from another board sent an email with what I consider a very good compilation of articles on bow tuning. This is the same friend who gets his Mathews to shoot identical groups at 25-30 yards with fletched and unfletched arrows. I'll post the text in a separate thread since I think it could of use to some people.

PABowhntr, like I said I'll be shooting tonight and you're more than welcome to stop by. I bought a Yellow Jacket broadhead target we can put through it's paces (I'm shooting field points into it and it seems fine).


Have a good one!

Fritz

mrfritz44

Just an update to my own thread. I figure I'll respond to myself with what happens so that if someone else has similar experiences they can relate.

Bare shaft paper tuned last night for about 2 hours in the basement (wife "loved" it - again!) from a range of 7 yards with bullethole end results.

My rest went up about 1/8" and 1/4" right! I think it paid off so far since out back my rightward drift at long range disappeared. I could also shoot 3 inch groups at 20 yards with bare shafts - they were about 3 inches high. At 30 yards with a bare shaft I'm hitting 6 inches high and 6 inches right with 9 inch groups. I still have some work and will be out at some point bare shaft paper tuning from longer ranges. The shafts are also hitting tip high/tail low. I've gotta read the Easton chart to figure out what this means, but I think I may have the rest a little high.

My goal is to group bare shafts well out to 30 yards. The changes in rest position are getting very finicky and you almost have to look for lines within the line to positively affect flight. I almost wish I had gotten the micro-adjustable Drop Zone now that I'm at this point.

Fritz

PABowhntr

Fred,

I missed this until just now. I could have stopped down. PM or email me the next time as I am more likely to catch it.

Have you paper tuned or group tuned with fletched arrows since beginning the bare shaft tuning process? Just curious.

Yes, the microadjustable rests come in very handy if you know you are going to be doing alot of tinkering with your setup.

mrfritz44

It was almost dark last night before I got outside and in 15 minutes I had to readjust my sites and try the bare shafts. I did manage to shoot fletched arrows from 20 and 40 yards briefly to confirm I wasn't doing more harm than good.

At 20 yards I was able to consistently hit a two inch dot. From 40 (in the dark) I grouped about 4 inches - that with one shot that I felt like I had pulled (I was only able to get one 3 shot group off). I plan to do alot more regular shooting tonight and Lonnie will be out as well. I may have talked him into paper tuning his bow .

Fritz