I searched the manufacturer's sites last night and saw what I think you guys mean. It looks as though the hand actually sticks up at a 45 degree angle while the shooter's forearm is perpendicular to the bow at the lowest point of the grip. I shot out back last night and tried it, but I didn't shoot enough to conclude it was consistent. The few groups I did shoot were nice so I'll revisit it next time out, especially since the pros obviously find it the thing to do. I do think I'll avoid the thumb behind the neck method of anchoring.

I also played with tiller for the first time last night since it seemed to be a prerequisite to micro-tuning. I backed the lower limb off 1/8th of a turn and it did seem to reduce the tendency of my aiming point to drop. I intend to watch this setting as well.

I'll be out back this afternoon playing with the PVC paper tuning rack I made last night. I'm still convinced I can get those elusive bullet holes! A friend from another board sent an email with what I consider a very good compilation of articles on bow tuning. This is the same friend who gets his Mathews to shoot identical groups at 25-30 yards with fletched and unfletched arrows. I'll post the text in a separate thread since I think it could of use to some people.

PABowhntr, like I said I'll be shooting tonight and you're more than welcome to stop by. I bought a Yellow Jacket broadhead target we can put through it's paces (I'm shooting field points into it and it seems fine).


Have a good one!

Fritz