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What do you technical pros think?

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What do you technical pros think?

Old 10-13-2010, 03:01 PM
  #11  
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Measure from the top axle to nocking point and from the bottom axle to the nocking point. It is not in the center of the string. If you put your loop or nocking point in the dead center of the string (which is where this tool sounds like it would put it) it is going to be at least an inch too low.

Last edited by bigbulls; 10-13-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:44 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by bigbulls View Post
Measure from the top axle to nocking point and from the bottom axle to the nocking point. It is not in the center of the string. If you put your loop or nocking point in the dead center of the string (which is where this tool sounds like it would put it) it is going to be at least an inch too low.
This is because everyone is set in thier own ways and have been going off the plunger hole as I have for along time. I just went to the garage and lasered the riser shelf of my Mathews Switchback XT, it was an inch off center, raised the laser a half an inch and it was perfect center. Now knowing this, my broadheads have to be turned so that they will not hit the shelf. I just lasered in the riser shelf of my PSE X-Force and the shelf was dead center, and it is a twin cam bow. I would think that the riser shelf should be dropped atleast 5/8 of an inch so that the bow can shoot an arrow with a broadhead perfect center?

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Old 10-13-2010, 06:15 PM
  #13  
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I would think that the riser shelf should be dropped atleast 5/8 of an inch so that the bow can shoot an arrow with a broadhead perfect center?
Correct, but the problem with doing this is that you would also have to lower the throat of the grip by the same amount. The grip on my destroyer is already a full inch below dead center. The farther you move the grip below center the less balanced the bow becomes. There has to be a compromise between the nocking point and throat of the grip.

This is why manufacturers like Bowtech and Hoyt have chosen to sculpt out the riser shelf instead of leaving it flat like most other manufacturers do. It moves the arrow closer to true center with out adversely effecting the position of the grip.

For general information..... the top edge of the shelf on my destroyer is dead center also. I couldn't position a nock or loop dead center of the string.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:23 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bigbulls View Post
Correct, but the problem with doing this is that you would also have to lower the throat of the grip by the same amount. The grip on my destroyer is already a full inch below dead center. The farther you move the grip below center the less balanced the bow becomes. There has to be a compromise between the nocking point and throat of the grip.

This is why manufacturers like Bowtech and Hoyt have chosen to sculpt out the riser shelf instead of leaving it flat like most other manufacturers do. It moves the arrow closer to true center with out adversely effecting the position of the grip.

For general information..... the top edge of the shelf on my destroyer is dead center also. I couldn't position a nock or loop dead center of the string.
Lots of good information here!! So no matter how perfect I want to tune a bow sometimes it won't be perfect.
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:52 PM
  #15  
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Well, you can certainly get a bow perfectly tuned... or at least as close to perfect as a human can get.
The bows just aren't going to be manufactured with everything perfectly centered and square. So you just gotta tune with this in mind.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:12 PM
  #16  
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Sorry travis but I have to agree with Bigbulls. Sure, getting hi-tech is great but there are places where it is simply not necessary. I fear you may be spending your time and effort (as well meaning as it may be) on something that can be done with a bow square - or even the naked eye to some people, to put in a nock set.
And in any event, the initial nock set is just to get you close anyway. Depending on your arrow spine there will probably always be some minute adjustments that must be made to the rest and/or the nock set to have you bow finely tuned to shoot both field tips and broadheads to the same POI.
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by travis_ranger2000 View Post
Lots of good information here!! So no matter how perfect I want to tune a bow sometimes it won't be perfect.

The closest way to get "perfect" is at full draw,you would be amazed how much goes on when a bow is drawn.Your laser tool is neat but try it in conjunction with a hooter shooter to see how much changes.Believe it or not,many bows centershot does not run down through the center of the limb bolts,many are just outside of that.There is induced torque from the shooter and cable guards.No matter how we try to eliminate it,we can't.A shoot through does come close.
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Old 10-15-2010, 06:04 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TFOX View Post
The closest way to get "perfect" is at full draw,you would be amazed how much goes on when a bow is drawn.Your laser tool is neat but try it in conjunction with a hooter shooter to see how much changes.Believe it or not,many bows centershot does not run down through the center of the limb bolts,many are just outside of that.There is induced torque from the shooter and cable guards.No matter how we try to eliminate it,we can't.A shoot through does come close.
This was the whole idea of the True Nock. This is true about the center shot, on these bows I square the "TRUE SHOT" by setting the laser with your limb bolt, and then sliding laser over to top cam or wheel, and it will run right down your string, if bow isn't real close and arrow whips, I will even square the "TRUE SHOT" to the top wheel or cam and it usually shoots without whipping. The "TRUE SHOT" will even allow you to draw an arrow and another person laser the arrow while at full draw, telling you what your arrow is doing at full draw.

Last edited by travis_ranger2000; 10-15-2010 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 10-17-2010, 11:50 AM
  #19  
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The cam and full draw are the best way to go imo.BUT,you still need to group tune(target setup) and broadhead tune (hunting setup) to ensure the absolute best tune to your own personal grip and shooting style.
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:10 PM
  #20  
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Kinda curious as to why you lasered your Mathews? The shop I worked out we were told by Mathews that you couldn't laser to find center shot... They recommended standing behind the customer at full draw to set the rest. We ended up using a ruler to set the rests close, and explaining how and why it was up to the customer to dial it in minutely...
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