bare shaft tuning
#11
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 5,293
Likes: 0
From: Blissfield MI USA
This is also on eastons website, or on the package of most broad heads I think.
Basically you start by screwing on a broad head to an arrow you know is good. Then you check to make sure the head and insert are square. You don't want any wobble when you spin it. Why your at it look at the nock while it's spinning. You don't want that to wobble either.
Then you find a suitable broad head target. Don't use a bag target, it will ruin it and you may not be able to get the broad heads out of it. Providing they don't pass thru it. Then you shoot a broad head tipped arrow in the target first (learned that lesson the hard way
). After that shoot a field tipped arrow or two aiming a the same spot you aimed at with the fixed blade head. Do this a few times to make sure things are consitant and you were aiming well.
If it is off adjust your rest and/or nocking point to bring them together. I suggest starting with your nocking point, then your center shot. Try not to change both at the same time. If you can't them to come together, or you had to throw your bow way out of tune to do it you most likely have torque or form issues or your arrows are not spined correctly for your set up. Or you have a bad arrow. Try it with different arrows.
It is basically a lot like bareshaft tuning, you just use a fixed blade instead.
DO NOT SHOOT A BARE SHAFT WITH A BROAD HEAD ON IT! This can be vary dangerous since the arrow may have very erratic flight.
Paul
Basically you start by screwing on a broad head to an arrow you know is good. Then you check to make sure the head and insert are square. You don't want any wobble when you spin it. Why your at it look at the nock while it's spinning. You don't want that to wobble either.
Then you find a suitable broad head target. Don't use a bag target, it will ruin it and you may not be able to get the broad heads out of it. Providing they don't pass thru it. Then you shoot a broad head tipped arrow in the target first (learned that lesson the hard way
). After that shoot a field tipped arrow or two aiming a the same spot you aimed at with the fixed blade head. Do this a few times to make sure things are consitant and you were aiming well.If it is off adjust your rest and/or nocking point to bring them together. I suggest starting with your nocking point, then your center shot. Try not to change both at the same time. If you can't them to come together, or you had to throw your bow way out of tune to do it you most likely have torque or form issues or your arrows are not spined correctly for your set up. Or you have a bad arrow. Try it with different arrows.
It is basically a lot like bareshaft tuning, you just use a fixed blade instead.
DO NOT SHOOT A BARE SHAFT WITH A BROAD HEAD ON IT! This can be vary dangerous since the arrow may have very erratic flight.
Paul
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
ORIGINAL: r33h
So what is the best way to broadhead tune? The only tuning process that i am familiar with is paper tuning...
So what is the best way to broadhead tune? The only tuning process that i am familiar with is paper tuning...
Once you have a straight setup, shoot a group of broadheads, and then shoot a group of fieldtips same wight. First fix you vertical problems first by adjusting nock position or rest, check out the guide. Then if your grouping the BH's to the left, raise the poundage on your bow, or use heavier BH. BH to the right of feild tips, lower the poundage decrease tip wieght. This all assumes your papertuned to bullet holes.
I like to BH tune all the way out to 40 yards.
#13
I haven't shot through paper in years. The only method that I use is bareshaft tuning for hunting or target. It is a great method for compound shooters to tune their gear. Like others have said, make sure your spine is correct. One you get your feild tip bareshafts right on the money, your broadheads shoot be shooting like darts and impacting the same spot.




