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Recoil chart.......

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Recoil chart.......

Old 06-04-2011, 07:09 AM
  #11  
Typical Buck
 
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The firearm design, weight, balance, materials and how it fits you are all factors in felt recoil.

Chamber pressure is one factor in a snappy recoil. Chamber pressure is more noticeable in handguns. Try shooting and comparing the felt recoil in the same magnum firearm of the following using the same bullet weight.

.38 Special vs. .357 Mag fired in the same .357 mag revolver
.44 Special vs. .44 Mag fired in the same .44 mag revolver

Then look at the difference in the chamber pressures.

You will need different firearms for the following, unless you have a model with interchangeable barrels. Use the same model if possible. Compare full power non+P loads with the same bullet weight in the following.

.45 ACP vs. .40 S&W

Chamber pressure is not the only factor, but it is one of the factors.
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:49 PM
  #12  
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From the site above: http://huntamerica.com/recoil_calculator

Was surprised how much the recoil numbers go exponentially.
Here's a few of my rifles with the recoil numbers and comments on how they "feel":

22LR - RE = 0, RV = 1 Nothing

270 - RE = 13, RV = 9 Ok, pleasant to shoot off bench all day.

7.5x55 - RE = 18, RV = 11 Still Ok off bench but not really pleasant for long periods.

8x57 - RE = 20, RV = 12 I'm reaching for a towel to fold-up over the butt stock!

9.3x62 - RE = 31, RV = 15 Numbers don't seem to describe this recoil.
This one will hurt you off the bench. Its broken 2 scopes and put 13 stitches over my eye! I don’t notice the recoil hunting but my shoulder will be noticeably sore that evening.

458WM - RE = 61, RV = 22 A beast!!!
First time off the bench, recoil jarred front sight loose, front swivel ripped my hand and tore up one of my sand bags. Also, had a headache for rest of the day. Shooting game, I notice maybe recoil but the muzzle jump WILL get my attention and shoulder WILL hurt afterwards!
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Old 06-04-2011, 04:26 PM
  #13  
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As I recall, thats why alot of safari class magnums have the front sling swivel on the barrel, instead of on the stock, so it wont tear you up.
Im getting about 46ft lbs for recoil energy and 18 fps for recoil velocity for my 300RUM according to that. My 375H&H, Im getting slightly less energy but same recoil velocity. I can shoot the 375 alot in comparison to the 300, which I can shoot a fair amount. My 45/70 comes in at 38ft lbs for RE and 18fps for RV. Its a pretty nasty hit too. From all of that, what I can tell you is, the closer, or further over 3000fps bullet speed you go, and the lighter the rifle, the faster the recoil pulse will actually be. The 375, with a mild 2500fps, and a decent weight, 8.5lbs or so without a scope, some go 9lbs, its going to absorb some of that fast pulse, and turn it into more of a steady push that you can learn to manage very well. Now my 45/70, its not a high velocity gun, and is only throwing a 350gr slug out. The difference I will say on it is, its fairly light for that heavy of a bullet, so it throws it back at you before it gets moving. Only real way you're going to know how guns kick is to shoot them, and lots of experience.

Last edited by streetglideok; 06-04-2011 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 04:35 AM
  #14  
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streetglideok wrote:
As I recall, thats why alot of safari class magnums have the front sling swivel on the barrel, instead of on the stock, so it wont tear you up.
You are correct, some do - some don't but should!

After that 1st session w/ my 458, I had the barrel cut back 3", the front site reinstalled and the front swivel moved from the bottom of the forearm to the front tip. See:

BEFORE


AFTER
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Old 06-05-2011, 05:07 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by RaySendero
You are correct, some do - some don't but should!

After that 1st session w/ my 458, I had the barrel cut back 3", the front site reinstalled and the front swivel moved from the bottom of the forearm to the front tip. See:

BEFORE


AFTER
Nice rifle Ray!
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:25 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by RaySendero
You are correct, some do - some don't but should!

After that 1st session w/ my 458, I had the barrel cut back 3", the front site reinstalled and the front swivel moved from the bottom of the forearm to the front tip. See:

BEFORE


AFTER
How funny Ray, thats my rifle, in 375! Same color laminated model 798. I think the 26" barrel is a tad too long myself, and have thought of cutting it back a couple of inches myself. How much did it cost? I did see they made a limited run of the 798s in 458, with a 22" barrel and walnut stock. When I bought my 375, they had several in 458. I nearly bought one, but as you found, I thought they were too light for that caliber, so I went with 375. I should say that IMO, 375 class guns are good in the 8.5-9lb range for handling. 416's, Ive yet to figure their ideal weight, but 9-9.5? And the 458s, a nice heavy barrel, and nearly 10lbs or so.

Also will add, I lapped my action to smooth it out some. Now it feels like it should.
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Old 06-05-2011, 03:42 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by streetglideok
How funny Ray, thats my rifle, in 375! Same color laminated model 798. I think the 26" barrel is a tad too long myself, and have thought of cutting it back a couple of inches myself. How much did it cost? I did see they made a limited run of the 798s in 458, with a 22" barrel and walnut stock. When I bought my 375, they had several in 458. I nearly bought one, but as you found, I thought they were too light for that caliber, so I went with 375. I should say that IMO, 375 class guns are good in the 8.5-9lb range for handling. 416's, Ive yet to figure their ideal weight, but 9-9.5? And the 458s, a nice heavy barrel, and nearly 10lbs or so.

Also will add, I lapped my action to smooth it out some. Now it feels like it should.
WOW - Where to start?

The Rem 798 is a control round feed Mauser action. I purposely customized that rifle to be an easy carry-around DG stopper. When the front site came loose I also noticed how little barrel thickness was left at the end with that light contour. Was concerned that any drop or rough use could dent the end of the barrel. So cutting 3" off the barrel killed 2 birds - 23" was much easier to carry and the barrel thickness at the end was doubled.

Your right the recoil is horrendous with the rifle weghing just under 8 Lbs. But remember, that's was the concept for the rifle - Easy carry. It will kick the snot out of ya, but on the other hand so will whatever is coming at you - so take your pick!

Unlike shooting my other rifles, it took me a lot of practice to learn the firm both hands grip while pulling it toward me into my shoulder technique. Sighted in at 50 yds its also back dead on at 100. I can hit a milk jug at 50 and follow-up hitting another one at 25 now.

As far as cost; the barrel cut, sight drilled & reinstalled, swivel moved & the original hole plugged, plus the bolt jeweled - Well you would either laugh or cry. I get inexpensive gunsmithing - so can't help with what it may cost you.
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:55 AM
  #18  
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Perhaps you need the chamber cut for the LOTT,lol. You could load it down closer to 45/70 loads, but it will still kick. Compared to the model 70 safaris, these barrels are light. Being a smaller bore, mine has more metal on it then yours though. Havent had, wait, havent shot mine with a sling on it yet, guess I better soon, and see if it tries to bite me. Notice the rough machine marks inside your action? Lil JB bore compound, and some boredom fixed that. Not real thrilled with the sights, thinking of a lower powered scope to put on top of it for this fall. Have an itch to take it elk hunting.
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