Mounting A Scope???
#1
Thread Starter
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: grove city oh USA
hey guys i have a remington 700 adl and it has a bushnell sportsman on it right now i have a leupold vx-2 with the mounts and rings. Im pretty much a rookie and im wondering is it easy to mount the leupold stuff on ?? please help thanx
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
From: Garfield NJ USA
Just make sure you have the proper rings for the mounts and the scope. As far as positioning it goes you'll have to use trial and error for eye relief and for positioning the reticle, secure the rifle in a rest and aline the cross hair on an object that you know to be square, a window sill should do. You should be able to close your eyes and raise the gun to shooting position, open your eyes and have a full sight picture.
#4
Just make sure to mount the scope as far forward in the rings you can and still get the full sight picture through the scope (without black rings around the sight picture). That way you are less likely to get 'bit' by the scope during recoil.
Other than that I would recommend sanding the inside of the rings with some 200 grit sandpaper so it gets a good grip on the scope then make sure you get it somewhat snug (but not all the way). Then take it out to the range and practice throwing it up to your sholder like you're going to shoot and make sure the reticle posts are lined up right. After doing that several times and adjusting you should have it close enough to tighten it down all the way. I use locktite on my screws on my gun just to be sure. Just don't get them so tight you'll never get them off again.
Other than that I would recommend sanding the inside of the rings with some 200 grit sandpaper so it gets a good grip on the scope then make sure you get it somewhat snug (but not all the way). Then take it out to the range and practice throwing it up to your sholder like you're going to shoot and make sure the reticle posts are lined up right. After doing that several times and adjusting you should have it close enough to tighten it down all the way. I use locktite on my screws on my gun just to be sure. Just don't get them so tight you'll never get them off again.
#5
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
From: RIO RANCHO NEW MEXICO USA
BFLEM55,
I don't think mounting a scope is very difficult. There are a few tricks that help. First, read the directions. This is the procedure I follow. Remove all screws from holes that will be used for the mounting and degrease with alcohol and Qtips the screw holes in the top of the action. Degrease the scope base, scope base screws and base windage screws using alcohol and a clean cloth. I prefer the one piece base but the two piece base is mounted pretty much the same way. Either way, you will have two different length of screws, or perhaps three lengths. The shortest screw goes in the front action hole. With a one piece base, the longest screw goes into the rear of the base. With a two piece base, there should be two long screw that go in the rear base. After the middle screw is snug, check to be sure the entire base is in full contact with the action. With the base degreased, mount the base/s with the screws just snug, not tight. Next degrease the scope rings. Use a smooth 1" pipe or bar and mount the rings on it. Tighten the front ring but keep the rear ring loose enough to turn on the bar. Turn the front ring into the hole for it and align the bar with the axis of the rifle. While mounting the front ring, move the rear ring into its alignment with the windage screws. At this point I determine if it is necessary to raise the rear ring in order to get it onto the base, or if the rear ring is above the base. If either of these conditions exist, turn the front ring 180 degrees and relocate the rear ring on the bar/pipe and fit it to the base. The rear ring should sit on the base without up or down torque on the bar. Install the windage screws and tighten the ring screws, check to be sure the top half of the rings are aligned with the bottom half. If they are not turn the top of the ring 180 degree or swap as necessary to correct any misalignment. Now leave the rings on the bar, remove it from the base. I donot like the tool provided to tighten the trox screws so I use a T-15 size bit. Remove the base. Now comes the locktite. On the scope base only, I use the red locktite, even if it means I can't take the base off again. This red lock tight will only give you about five minutes to get akk the screws tight. If everything has been checked, this is more than enough time. Apply the locktite and snug the screws. Start tightening the screws, starting from the front to the rear. The screw should be just as tight as you can get them by hand. Donot use a wrench. Position the rings on the base again. DONOT locktite the windage screws, YET. Center the windage adjustment of the scope, and place it in the rings. Square the reticle to the rifle. DONOT locktite the rings, YET. When you go out to get a rough zero on the scope, make any elevation adjustments that are necessary. MAKE ALL WINDAGE ADJUSTMENTS WITH THE BASE WINDAGE SCREWS. Once the windage is close, locktite the base screws with the Blue locktite one at a time so as not to change the windage adjustments you've made. Give the Blue locktite about 15 minutes to start to dry and finish your sighting using the scope adjustments. Do not put oil on the outside of the rifle for at least 24 hours. If you are satisfied with the level of the reticle, there is a locktite that is intended to be used on screws that have been tightened. Put the rifle in a horizontal position, scope down, and apply this type of locktite to the bottom of the ring screws and allow 24 hours for it to set. Be sure all screws are tight, but donot use wrenches to over tighten. I hope that this is of some help. Good luck.
BigBob .30-06
I don't think mounting a scope is very difficult. There are a few tricks that help. First, read the directions. This is the procedure I follow. Remove all screws from holes that will be used for the mounting and degrease with alcohol and Qtips the screw holes in the top of the action. Degrease the scope base, scope base screws and base windage screws using alcohol and a clean cloth. I prefer the one piece base but the two piece base is mounted pretty much the same way. Either way, you will have two different length of screws, or perhaps three lengths. The shortest screw goes in the front action hole. With a one piece base, the longest screw goes into the rear of the base. With a two piece base, there should be two long screw that go in the rear base. After the middle screw is snug, check to be sure the entire base is in full contact with the action. With the base degreased, mount the base/s with the screws just snug, not tight. Next degrease the scope rings. Use a smooth 1" pipe or bar and mount the rings on it. Tighten the front ring but keep the rear ring loose enough to turn on the bar. Turn the front ring into the hole for it and align the bar with the axis of the rifle. While mounting the front ring, move the rear ring into its alignment with the windage screws. At this point I determine if it is necessary to raise the rear ring in order to get it onto the base, or if the rear ring is above the base. If either of these conditions exist, turn the front ring 180 degrees and relocate the rear ring on the bar/pipe and fit it to the base. The rear ring should sit on the base without up or down torque on the bar. Install the windage screws and tighten the ring screws, check to be sure the top half of the rings are aligned with the bottom half. If they are not turn the top of the ring 180 degree or swap as necessary to correct any misalignment. Now leave the rings on the bar, remove it from the base. I donot like the tool provided to tighten the trox screws so I use a T-15 size bit. Remove the base. Now comes the locktite. On the scope base only, I use the red locktite, even if it means I can't take the base off again. This red lock tight will only give you about five minutes to get akk the screws tight. If everything has been checked, this is more than enough time. Apply the locktite and snug the screws. Start tightening the screws, starting from the front to the rear. The screw should be just as tight as you can get them by hand. Donot use a wrench. Position the rings on the base again. DONOT locktite the windage screws, YET. Center the windage adjustment of the scope, and place it in the rings. Square the reticle to the rifle. DONOT locktite the rings, YET. When you go out to get a rough zero on the scope, make any elevation adjustments that are necessary. MAKE ALL WINDAGE ADJUSTMENTS WITH THE BASE WINDAGE SCREWS. Once the windage is close, locktite the base screws with the Blue locktite one at a time so as not to change the windage adjustments you've made. Give the Blue locktite about 15 minutes to start to dry and finish your sighting using the scope adjustments. Do not put oil on the outside of the rifle for at least 24 hours. If you are satisfied with the level of the reticle, there is a locktite that is intended to be used on screws that have been tightened. Put the rifle in a horizontal position, scope down, and apply this type of locktite to the bottom of the ring screws and allow 24 hours for it to set. Be sure all screws are tight, but donot use wrenches to over tighten. I hope that this is of some help. Good luck.
BigBob .30-06
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: WESTERN PA
After you get your optics clamped securly to your weapon, pick a spot on a wall about 25 feet away, pull the bolt out and sandbag the rifle so that you can see the spot on the wall through the bore, make sure the rifle is anchored and does not move while you adjust scope crosshairs to meet the point you see through the bore. You have just boresighted your rifle<img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle> Start out close at the range, 25 yards then move out. if your dead zero at 25 your 100 yd adjustments should be minimal.. Good luck..
ALL DAY, EVERY DAY,IN THE WOODS...
ALL DAY, EVERY DAY,IN THE WOODS...




