GeneRagulsky

OK, I know that there are different opinions on paper tuning, but I want to paper tune my bow. I am shooting an 06 Switchback XT, 29" draw set at 65lbs. I Have a trophy ridge fall away rest.
Here is what I am having a problems with: On the paper, my point is entering to the right of the vanes. I have read and completely understand the Eastons how to tune manual, so I should know how to fix the problem. But none of that is working. Well it is but it is causing other things to go wrong. When I move the rest to get the "bullet" hole, I no longer have any clearance with the riser for broad heads, also I max out my sight adjustment and still need more.
I have shot Vapor 4000 and Easton Axis 340's. I can get both to tune, but then I still have the other problems.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Should have mentioned what prompeted this... When I am shooting, I can see my nock and vanes yaw to the left on the way to the target, they do snap back and enter the target straight, but I know they are bleeding off all sorts of speed and energy when they do.

uphunter15

Try tuning it the opposite way. Sometimes you have to do this in order to get the proper flight. I was told that by someone some time ago and I believe if you read the tuning guide it will tell you that somewhere also.

ijimmy

Excelent advise uphunter , I have found that to be vary true , You might try changeing tip weights allso , and one more thing , vary your shooting distance from the paper if you must paper tune [I dont] but have in the past . If you only shoot paper from one distance say 4 feet , then it tells you only what is happening at that distance . You could get a bullet hole at one distance and have horibale arrow flight , try 3 , 6 and 12 feet , if you get good flight at those various distances , hopefully your arrows will be straight flying from there on down range .

BGfisher

Next to last paragraph at the bottom of page 13. Although it petains to bare shafts fletched arrows still leave the bow the same way at very close range.

archer58

I hate to sound like a broken record, but w/ Mathews bow's Idler lean is the root of most bad tears and tuning difficulty.
I owned a SW and had the identical problem. It didn't rear it's ugly head till I tried to tune broadheads. fortuenately it's an easy fix.

At any rate make sure your axle to axle is exactly 31" on BOTH sides. A twist or two of the yoke on one side or the other should take care of it.
Next set your center shot at about 13/16'' and make necessary adjustments from there.
Your bow is a real shooter and I think this will fix u up.

KodiakArcher

Just one suggestion: quit torquing the bow. Two wrongs don't make a right. If you're torquing the bow and then compensating by moving the bow off of centershot it's not really solving the problem. Set the bow to centershot and work on your hand placement and shot follow-thru.

Olink

Paper tuning often tells you alot more about the shooter andarrows than it does about the bow.

Here's my suggestions. With a dropaway rest, I like to papertune with only bareshafts (I feel confident that fletch clearance won't be a problem.) I've never seen centershot be off much more than a 1/16" either way. If your tear is good and you are far from the published centershot, something else wrong. As suggested by someone else, check the idler lean. There is good thread about this on the Mathews forum. Next I would check arrows.With what you listed, you shouldn't have spine problems, but try rotating nocks. Sometimes a shaft will have a prominent spline and depending how it lines up with the nock it can give a bad tear.

If you still can't find the cause, look to yourself. Try some different grip/hand positions. Then try some different releases. I once learned a big lesson here. I was using a Scott Rhino release to paper tune, and had a left tear I couldn't get rid of. So I tried my Carter Quickie and TruBall Short N Sweet. Same left tear. On a whim Ipulled outmy Carter Evolution. Perfect bullet hole. Then I tried a TruBall 3D Thumb Pull. Perfect bullet hole. I went back to one of my wrist strap releases, and presto, the tear is back. So, with a wrist strap release, I had a tear, with a hand held release a perfect hole. The cause? When I shot with a wrist strap release, I placed my trigger finger tight against the body of the release and this must have been putting some torque on the system. I moved my finger out to the end of the trigger and the tear was gone.

Elkcrazy8

Bingo, When I used to shoot Mathews, this was the one issue that I learned real quick about, I would call mathews tech support and find out just what the idler wheel lean should be at rest. Some of the mathews are parallel and some are not. I remember on my LX, it had to be set so the line would bisect the string 4 1/2 to 5 inches down. I remember the legacy was straight. I haven't shot mathews for a few years so I don't know what the newer ones should be set at, but that could be solved with a simple phone call to Mathews.

If the wheel lean is off, it can also lead to early serving wear.

Take an arrow and run it on the flat side of the idler wheel and see what the arrow does in relation to the string. This will give you an indication of how much the wheel is leaning and if you are where you should be at or not.

For me tuning starts way before sending an arrow down range, one of the first steps is setting the bow to spec and adjusting any lean as needed when dealing with a static yoke. If it is out, you will never be able to tune the rest!!!!

TFOX

This is a rare thread because up to this point ALL info is spot on.


Olink,I believe the root of the bad tears with certain releases was facial torque.

I had the exact same problem whenI used a Tru Ball Chappy Boss.I have a well defined jawbone and this release would sit in behind it and would torque the string and even with a d-loop,cause a tear.

I found it one day while getting frustrated,I took the string off my face with the release and got a bullet hole and then put it back on my face and the tear came back.

gibblet

i really disagree w/ setting axle to axle equal on both sides of the bow at rest. i really disagree with it.(unless you've got a shoot thru cable system). while you can do a worse job setting your bow up than this, it would be tough. while mathews is giving you tricks to do w/ arrows and such - they're not telling you why. what you're trying to do w/ the idler is decrease horizontal nock travel on the one thing besides your rest that you can. if you set the bow up parallel at rest, your string will have the most amount of left to right movement (or right to left) throughout the shot that it can possibly have - unless you really screw things up.you shouldn't set it it perfect at full draw either - because you're on the other end of thedeal then.w/out tools and lasers - what you can do is set the bows ata perfect on both sides at rest - and thencount the twists/untwists to one side of the yoke necessary to acheive the string coming off the bows idler perfectly straight at full draw - and then split the difference. so if you had it perfect at rest, and you had to take 6 twists out of the right side of the yoke to get it perfect at full draw - then put 3 back in - this way your string has its least amount of horizontal nock travel across a center line possible. this is, as far as the idler goes, your bows most forgiving point. i wouldn't suggest drawing a single cam bow that's set perfect axle to axle on both sides, as sometimes the cable won't track properly on shorter ata bows, and the serving can get cut.