Need some advice...
04-24-2008, 09:11 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Need some advice...
ORIGINAL: LittleChief
I know I should wait, and I also know there are less expensive heads that'll do the job. I sure love the looks of those Silver Flames, though. I may still talk myself out of spending that kind of money for just broadheads when I could get a dozen decent arrows and decent broadheads for the same price.
Where do you go to get heavier field points??? 125 grains is the heaviest I can find without special ordering. So, I guess the next question is who can I orderthem from?
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
I definately say the wieght system is the way to go to tune the arrow to the bow. I just think I would hold off on ordering the BH yet and try field points instead. I got a set of FP's from 100-250gr just for the testing. also, you just can't beat a good magnus head.
I definately say the wieght system is the way to go to tune the arrow to the bow. I just think I would hold off on ordering the BH yet and try field points instead. I got a set of FP's from 100-250gr just for the testing. also, you just can't beat a good magnus head.
Where do you go to get heavier field points??? 125 grains is the heaviest I can find without special ordering. So, I guess the next question is who can I orderthem from?
04-24-2008, 09:51 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
RE: Need some advice...
Thanks, BC. Here's another question. I have a couple dozen 29 inch GoldTip 5575's that I can't use with my compound. Would it be possible to use their weight system and put enough weight on the front end to decrease the spine to an acceptable level for my 55# longbow? The shafts only weigh 9.3 grains per inch (270 grains). I mean something like an insert (16 grains)two 50 grain weights and a 125 grain broadhead, all on the front and maybe 20 grains or so on the back for a healthy FOC % and a total unfletched arrow weight of around 530 grains?
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
04-24-2008, 10:08 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Spring Grove, Pa. USA
Posts: 2,120
RE: Need some advice...
You could use 50gr or 100gr brass inserts.That'll give you the weight you're looking for plus weaken the spine.And you can still use the 125gr heads and have 225gr up front
04-24-2008, 10:40 PM
#14
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin/Michigan
Posts: 9,679
RE: Need some advice...
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
Thanks for the heads up Shultzster........that's the only one of my crop that I am somewhat unfamiliar with at the moment other than they fly great and are sharp as heck. The 125gr Stingers are in the #1 position anyway.
Also I think I might modify my Snufers a bit too.......I was shooting them the other night and dropped one low on a 30 yard shot and hit the "leg bone" on my 3D target. The tip was rolled over beyond recognition so I simply filed it off and turned the long skinny point into a sharp chisel style.
It actually looks pretty good.
ORIGINAL: Schultzy
Be carefull with them Steelforces. I've seen to many of them break inside a deer for me to use them.
ORIGINAL: Matt / PA
I could never justify that much for a broadhead....they're beautiful and sharp and all that but there are PLENTY of extremely well made sharp heads on the Market that you could get a bunch more of for much less$$.
Pull the bleeder blade off the Muzzy 220gr Phantoms for a 200gr solid as a rock 2 blade head at a fraction of the cost. Sharp too.
I have Magnus Stingers and Steelforce premiers for the Longbow, and Muzzy Phantoms and Magnus Snuffers for the recurves........I absolutely don't want for any other broadheads.
I would pick a stinger or a Phantom over the Silver Flames everyday because IMO they'll do everybit as good of a job without damage to the head and you could spend the extra money on some more arrows.
I could never justify that much for a broadhead....they're beautiful and sharp and all that but there are PLENTY of extremely well made sharp heads on the Market that you could get a bunch more of for much less$$.
Pull the bleeder blade off the Muzzy 220gr Phantoms for a 200gr solid as a rock 2 blade head at a fraction of the cost. Sharp too.
I have Magnus Stingers and Steelforce premiers for the Longbow, and Muzzy Phantoms and Magnus Snuffers for the recurves........I absolutely don't want for any other broadheads.
I would pick a stinger or a Phantom over the Silver Flames everyday because IMO they'll do everybit as good of a job without damage to the head and you could spend the extra money on some more arrows.
Also I think I might modify my Snufers a bit too.......I was shooting them the other night and dropped one low on a 30 yard shot and hit the "leg bone" on my 3D target. The tip was rolled over beyond recognition so I simply filed it off and turned the long skinny point into a sharp chisel style.
It actually looks pretty good.
Matt, I'm sure your well aware that Magnus has the best Customer service the is, you should of sent that head back to them, they would of sent you new ones! Last season my buddy rolled the tip on one of his and they sent him an entire pack of replacement heads for the one he sent in, pretty good deal if you ask me!
04-25-2008, 04:47 AM
#15
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
RE: Need some advice...
I sure love the looks of those Silver Flames, though.
Everything I've heard about SF broadheads has been positive, except the price. No doubt they will do the job--but do you "need" them? I don't think so. One of the least expensive heads on the market is Ribtek, and I love 'em. Initially I figured they would be a good head for rabbit hunting, due to the price, but I've learned they are super tough, sharpen well, hold an edge....what's not to love? I got almost 8" of penetration on a 6-point that weighed 165-175#......almost 8" of penetration into the hard-packed DIRT that is, after the arrow passed through the deer. He went maybe 35 yards and crashed. They do work well on bunnies too.
I like Wensel Woodsman's, if you can figure out the sharpening trick. I don't have it mastered, but I got mine sharp enough that when I shot a small pig in GA, it passed through so fast I thought I'd missed. Found the pig, never found my arrow (hunting from the ground).
I haven't tried them on a live critter yet, but I'm liking the Ace broadheads--and they get rave reviews. Bought a pack for my son to use for his first deer, whenever that chance arrives. Got myself a pack also, and hope to get a chance to properly "field test" them next season.
Magnus has a stellar reputation for customer service, and one of my best friends swears by them--he's killed gobs of deer with them.
You'll even see the occassional post or magizine article about folks killing deer with sharp rocks--seems the Indian's did just fine with those.
My point being is you can spend a lot on gear, but you don't HAVE to spend a lot. Paying 2-5 times as much doesn't mean you are getting a product that's 2-5 times better. I know with some things you will usually get what you pay for (wood arrows and strings come to mind). However, some products are marketed more towards fooling the hunter rather than doing a better job in the woods.
The POC arrows you have will do just fine as long as you do your part. Whitetails aren't tanks--an arrow that flies straight (no wobble) with a VERY sharp broadhead put in the right spot will take it down quickly--the deer won't know the difference.
Chad
04-25-2008, 05:58 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Need some advice...
ORIGINAL: LittleChief
Thanks, BC. Here's another question. I have a couple dozen 29 inch GoldTip 5575's that I can't use with my compound. Would it be possible to use their weight system and put enough weight on the front end to decrease the spine to an acceptable level for my 55# longbow? The shafts only weigh 9.3 grains per inch (270 grains). I mean something like an insert (16 grains)two 50 grain weights and a 125 grain broadhead, all on the front and maybe 20 grains or so on the back for a healthy FOC % and a total unfletched arrow weight of around 530 grains?
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
Thanks, BC. Here's another question. I have a couple dozen 29 inch GoldTip 5575's that I can't use with my compound. Would it be possible to use their weight system and put enough weight on the front end to decrease the spine to an acceptable level for my 55# longbow? The shafts only weigh 9.3 grains per inch (270 grains). I mean something like an insert (16 grains)two 50 grain weights and a 125 grain broadhead, all on the front and maybe 20 grains or so on the back for a healthy FOC % and a total unfletched arrow weight of around 530 grains?
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
04-25-2008, 06:23 AM
#17
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Dover, PA USA
Posts: 5,497
RE: Need some advice...
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
As long as they have the gold tip insert you can can screw the wieghts in the front, and you need the install the nock adaptor in the back.
ORIGINAL: LittleChief
Thanks, BC. Here's another question. I have a couple dozen 29 inch GoldTip 5575's that I can't use with my compound. Would it be possible to use their weight system and put enough weight on the front end to decrease the spine to an acceptable level for my 55# longbow? The shafts only weigh 9.3 grains per inch (270 grains). I mean something like an insert (16 grains)two 50 grain weights and a 125 grain broadhead, all on the front and maybe 20 grains or so on the back for a healthy FOC % and a total unfletched arrow weight of around 530 grains?
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
Thanks, BC. Here's another question. I have a couple dozen 29 inch GoldTip 5575's that I can't use with my compound. Would it be possible to use their weight system and put enough weight on the front end to decrease the spine to an acceptable level for my 55# longbow? The shafts only weigh 9.3 grains per inch (270 grains). I mean something like an insert (16 grains)two 50 grain weights and a 125 grain broadhead, all on the front and maybe 20 grains or so on the back for a healthy FOC % and a total unfletched arrow weight of around 530 grains?
Is this possible? It'd sure save some money. Or.... I could just save you guys the headache and myself a lot of money and shoot the 495 total weight POC shafts that I've already got as JimPic suggested.
I LOVE the GT weight system.
04-25-2008, 07:46 AM
#18
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
RE: Need some advice...
ORIGINAL: LBR
"Looks" have cost a lot of folks a whole lot of money--especially bowhunters.[:@]
Everything I've heard about SF broadheads has been positive, except the price. No doubt they will do the job--but do you "need" them? I don't think so. One of the least expensive heads on the market is Ribtek, and I love 'em. Initially I figured they would be a good head for rabbit hunting, due to the price, but I've learned they are super tough, sharpen well, hold an edge....what's not to love? I got almost 8" of penetration on a 6-point that weighed 165-175#......almost 8" of penetration into the hard-packed DIRT that is, after the arrow passed through the deer. He went maybe 35 yards and crashed. They do work well on bunnies too.
I like Wensel Woodsman's, if you can figure out the sharpening trick. I don't have it mastered, but I got mine sharp enough that when I shot a small pig in GA, it passed through so fast I thought I'd missed. Found the pig, never found my arrow (hunting from the ground).
I haven't tried them on a live critter yet, but I'm liking the Ace broadheads--and they get rave reviews. Bought a pack for my son to use for his first deer, whenever that chance arrives. Got myself a pack also, and hope to get a chance to properly "field test" them next season.
Magnus has a stellar reputation for customer service, and one of my best friends swears by them--he's killed gobs of deer with them.
You'll even see the occassional post or magizine article about folks killing deer with sharp rocks--seems the Indian's did just fine with those.
My point being is you can spend a lot on gear, but you don't HAVE to spend a lot. Paying 2-5 times as much doesn't mean you are getting a product that's 2-5 times better. I know with some things you will usually get what you pay for (wood arrows and strings come to mind). However, some products are marketed more towards fooling the hunter rather than doing a better job in the woods.
The POC arrows you have will do just fine as long as you do your part. Whitetails aren't tanks--an arrow that flies straight (no wobble) with a VERY sharp broadhead put in the right spot will take it down quickly--the deer won't know the difference.
Chad
I sure love the looks of those Silver Flames, though.
Everything I've heard about SF broadheads has been positive, except the price. No doubt they will do the job--but do you "need" them? I don't think so. One of the least expensive heads on the market is Ribtek, and I love 'em. Initially I figured they would be a good head for rabbit hunting, due to the price, but I've learned they are super tough, sharpen well, hold an edge....what's not to love? I got almost 8" of penetration on a 6-point that weighed 165-175#......almost 8" of penetration into the hard-packed DIRT that is, after the arrow passed through the deer. He went maybe 35 yards and crashed. They do work well on bunnies too.
I like Wensel Woodsman's, if you can figure out the sharpening trick. I don't have it mastered, but I got mine sharp enough that when I shot a small pig in GA, it passed through so fast I thought I'd missed. Found the pig, never found my arrow (hunting from the ground).
I haven't tried them on a live critter yet, but I'm liking the Ace broadheads--and they get rave reviews. Bought a pack for my son to use for his first deer, whenever that chance arrives. Got myself a pack also, and hope to get a chance to properly "field test" them next season.
Magnus has a stellar reputation for customer service, and one of my best friends swears by them--he's killed gobs of deer with them.
You'll even see the occassional post or magizine article about folks killing deer with sharp rocks--seems the Indian's did just fine with those.
My point being is you can spend a lot on gear, but you don't HAVE to spend a lot. Paying 2-5 times as much doesn't mean you are getting a product that's 2-5 times better. I know with some things you will usually get what you pay for (wood arrows and strings come to mind). However, some products are marketed more towards fooling the hunter rather than doing a better job in the woods.
The POC arrows you have will do just fine as long as you do your part. Whitetails aren't tanks--an arrow that flies straight (no wobble) with a VERY sharp broadhead put in the right spot will take it down quickly--the deer won't know the difference.
Chad
I know you and Matt areright. Of course I don't need the Silver Flames. I really need to start remembering that I'm retired and drawing a little over half my basic pay and not the full active paycheck.[:@] I'll take the advice offered and get the Gold Tip weight system (if I can find it) and set up the 5575's I already have. 3555's would be closer to the right spine, but would leave me with a lighter arrow. I want that heavier arrow with a big FOC %.
If that doesn't work out, I won't waste much money, and I'll still have the dozen cedar shafts. I just have to find a good glue-on 125 grain 2 blade head with a 1" to 1 1/8" cutting diameter.
04-25-2008, 08:21 AM
#20
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Tennessee
Posts: 2,333
RE: Need some advice...
Thanks, Chad. I'll probably need it. The only GT dealer in my area (pro shop) gives me grief for shooting a longbow. He doesn't carry any trad gear, and even though shooting the longbow has improved my compound shooting, he insists that if you shoot trad and compound, you'll never be good at either. I already know that's a load of crap.