Techniques for a Beginner
11-19-2002, 11:58 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Grand Bay, AL
Posts: 181
Techniques for a Beginner
Alright guys, I got my bow off layaway and I absolutely love it! And the salesman quickly outfitted me with a glove, arrows that he said were properly spined (I have no knoledge of how to test) and a stringer. All at 25% off since I was the first Traditional customer he had in a while and hoped I came back (which I assured him was certain since he is the only shop in my area). My only problem is that I am not very consistent. Tom, the salesman, was a very knowledgeable shooter from what I discerned and said he would be happy to give me some pointers on shooting if I ever made it back but it was raining that day and I haven't had the chance to go back as of yet.
I have gotten to the point that I can hit a 6" circle at 10yds and a 10" circle at 15yds pretty commonly but my consistency is questionable at best. On one set of six, I can group all the arrows in the six inch circle (10-13yds.) and then on the next set I may miss the target altogether. And this has no progressive pattern, as in the longer I shoot, the worse I get. On the Contrary, I can shoot and hit, miss, miss, hit, hit, miss, hit, hit. Get the picture? I am just curious as to what proper form would be for a beginner trying to get the basics down? I definitely am more comfortable with a one over hold as opposed to three under. I am anchoring in the corner of my mouth with my middle finger. Should I cant the bow? If so, 45, 60, 75 degrees?
Here is the technical info that may help in discerning my problems. I am 6'3" with quite a span, my bow is a 62" Takedown recurve with a 47lbs@28" draw weight. I am shooting 30" spined for a 45-50lbs with 125gr. field points. I have only had the bow for about a week, and I am aware that the major improvements will come with time, but I just feel that I am missing something here. I will cherish any information you can part with and I will do my best to put it to use.
I apologize for rambling but just consider it insider information on my biography.
Thanks again
"Clutz by Nature, Hospitalized by Fate..."
Pyral
I have gotten to the point that I can hit a 6" circle at 10yds and a 10" circle at 15yds pretty commonly but my consistency is questionable at best. On one set of six, I can group all the arrows in the six inch circle (10-13yds.) and then on the next set I may miss the target altogether. And this has no progressive pattern, as in the longer I shoot, the worse I get. On the Contrary, I can shoot and hit, miss, miss, hit, hit, miss, hit, hit. Get the picture? I am just curious as to what proper form would be for a beginner trying to get the basics down? I definitely am more comfortable with a one over hold as opposed to three under. I am anchoring in the corner of my mouth with my middle finger. Should I cant the bow? If so, 45, 60, 75 degrees?
Here is the technical info that may help in discerning my problems. I am 6'3" with quite a span, my bow is a 62" Takedown recurve with a 47lbs@28" draw weight. I am shooting 30" spined for a 45-50lbs with 125gr. field points. I have only had the bow for about a week, and I am aware that the major improvements will come with time, but I just feel that I am missing something here. I will cherish any information you can part with and I will do my best to put it to use.
I apologize for rambling but just consider it insider information on my biography.
Thanks again
"Clutz by Nature, Hospitalized by Fate..."
Pyral
11-19-2002, 01:23 PM
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: California
Posts: 600
RE: Techniques for a Beginner
Welcome, it's good to see you posting with us.
First, lets get the important stuff out of the way. What brand and model bow did you buy? Do you know what woods it's made from?
Now the real important stuff. What type of string came with the bow? Is it dacron or one of the low stretch types of material? If it's dacron, is it fastflight compatible? What is your draw with the bow and what is the actual poundage at your draw? Are you right handed or left handed? Which is your dominant eye?
Several factors go into choosing the correct spined arrow for the bow you are shooting. The actual poundage at your actual draw, meaning that if you are pulling 29" with the bow, you would be pulling 50#, 30" would be 53# and so on. Well, within a pound or so. The cut of the riser has an affect on the spine you can shoot. For instance, a bow that isn't cut to or past center at the shelf, will take an arrow of weaker spine than a bow that's shelf is cut to or past center. The material of the string has an affect on spine too. A dacron string will take one spine and a bow that has a low stretch string like fastflight or 450+ or dynaflight can shoot an arrow about 5# heavier in spine at the weight your bow is pulling. If your release is less than perfect, an arrow heavier in spine can compensate and stabilize the flight of the arrow. The length of the arrow has a bearing on the spine of the arrow, but I'm sure that the proshop understands that one and compensated for the 30" length of the arrows you received. One thing that can't be relied on for picking the proper spine for a recurve is Eastons arrow chart, lol. It is notorious for recommending arrows that are 10# too heavy in spine.
As far as your hit and miss goes, welcome to traditional, no sights archery lol. The term certainly applies here, that practice makes perfect. Accuracy depends entirely on consistency of form. Get close to the backstop, leaving enough room for the arrow to clear the riser and shoot. Don't try for accuracy, but instead work on holding the bow the same way each time including how you grip it. Work on a steady bow arm, a consistent and solid anchor, a consistent draw and a consistent release. All of these things come into play for becoming accurate and if you work on them without worrying about the accuracy aspect of it, eventually as you back up some, you'll notice that your arrows start grouping together more and more and your accuracy will just fall into place.
Most of all, have fun with it.
Make em sharp and shoot em straight, or leave em home.
First, lets get the important stuff out of the way. What brand and model bow did you buy? Do you know what woods it's made from?
Now the real important stuff. What type of string came with the bow? Is it dacron or one of the low stretch types of material? If it's dacron, is it fastflight compatible? What is your draw with the bow and what is the actual poundage at your draw? Are you right handed or left handed? Which is your dominant eye?
Several factors go into choosing the correct spined arrow for the bow you are shooting. The actual poundage at your actual draw, meaning that if you are pulling 29" with the bow, you would be pulling 50#, 30" would be 53# and so on. Well, within a pound or so. The cut of the riser has an affect on the spine you can shoot. For instance, a bow that isn't cut to or past center at the shelf, will take an arrow of weaker spine than a bow that's shelf is cut to or past center. The material of the string has an affect on spine too. A dacron string will take one spine and a bow that has a low stretch string like fastflight or 450+ or dynaflight can shoot an arrow about 5# heavier in spine at the weight your bow is pulling. If your release is less than perfect, an arrow heavier in spine can compensate and stabilize the flight of the arrow. The length of the arrow has a bearing on the spine of the arrow, but I'm sure that the proshop understands that one and compensated for the 30" length of the arrows you received. One thing that can't be relied on for picking the proper spine for a recurve is Eastons arrow chart, lol. It is notorious for recommending arrows that are 10# too heavy in spine.
As far as your hit and miss goes, welcome to traditional, no sights archery lol. The term certainly applies here, that practice makes perfect. Accuracy depends entirely on consistency of form. Get close to the backstop, leaving enough room for the arrow to clear the riser and shoot. Don't try for accuracy, but instead work on holding the bow the same way each time including how you grip it. Work on a steady bow arm, a consistent and solid anchor, a consistent draw and a consistent release. All of these things come into play for becoming accurate and if you work on them without worrying about the accuracy aspect of it, eventually as you back up some, you'll notice that your arrows start grouping together more and more and your accuracy will just fall into place.
Most of all, have fun with it.
Make em sharp and shoot em straight, or leave em home.
11-19-2002, 03:06 PM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 57
RE: Techniques for a Beginner
As a relative newcomer to traditional let me give you one KEY word to start with. PERSISTANCE. If your anything like me, you will experience emotional ups and downs as your shooting progresses, regresses, then comes screaming back. Whenever you find yourself getting frustrated, back-off immediately and get back to 10 yards or less and work on the basics. Above all, pay attention to your bow arm and equal back tension between your bow arm and drawing arm. I just revisited this aspect of my shooting today at lunch and found that I've become pretty lazy. I'll be keeping myself at 10 yards for a week or so now as punishment. Basically, I'm guilty of letting my drawing arm "drive" the bow around. To me, a good "follow through" is when I find my bow arm right where it started, and the palm of my hand still resides next to my jawbone...just no string left in the fingers.
Follow through is where I fall short myself and I think maybe people take "follow-through" literally as a verb when actually it means; "don't move until the arrow hits home"
As for your question of canting, I tend to not cant my bow during standing target practice, but find it works well for me for shooting short range on 3D targets or from a stand. The angle isn
't that severe, maybe 15-30 degress? There is no specific formula and the choice is yours. Problems is, there are so many choices...you'll have to try a few different things along the way and find what works best for you. Don't be afraid to try different techniques and equipment (like stiffer arrows <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> and above all, keep it fun.
I would suggest Fred Asbells "Instinctive Shooting" book which brought me from 3 under gap shooting to 'instinctive'. Try not to take any one author too seriously. Take what they write as great advice and give it an honest try. Somethings will work for you other things maybe not.
Any questions? <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Follow through is where I fall short myself and I think maybe people take "follow-through" literally as a verb when actually it means; "don't move until the arrow hits home"As for your question of canting, I tend to not cant my bow during standing target practice, but find it works well for me for shooting short range on 3D targets or from a stand. The angle isn
't that severe, maybe 15-30 degress? There is no specific formula and the choice is yours. Problems is, there are so many choices...you'll have to try a few different things along the way and find what works best for you. Don't be afraid to try different techniques and equipment (like stiffer arrows <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> and above all, keep it fun.
I would suggest Fred Asbells "Instinctive Shooting" book which brought me from 3 under gap shooting to 'instinctive'. Try not to take any one author too seriously. Take what they write as great advice and give it an honest try. Somethings will work for you other things maybe not.
Any questions? <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
11-19-2002, 06:04 PM
#4
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bloomingdale Ohio Ohio, USA
Posts: 49
RE: Techniques for a Beginner
Great advice from Wahya and True Position. If you don't get the results you're looking for with instinctive shooting, I suggest developing your own aiming system. Some people are great instinctive shooters but for some, an aiming system of some sort such as gap or point of aim give faster results. You still have to practice and use
proper form. For me I bring my arrow to anchor then tilt my head slightly forward in the direction of the arrow and aim down the shaft. I for one am not good at instinctive shooting. Good luck and
have fun.
proper form. For me I bring my arrow to anchor then tilt my head slightly forward in the direction of the arrow and aim down the shaft. I for one am not good at instinctive shooting. Good luck and
have fun.
11-19-2002, 10:56 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Grand Bay, AL
Posts: 181
RE: Techniques for a Beginner
I will try and answer a few of your questions about my questions.
Let's start with the bow, I have no clue as to who made the bow and neither did the salesman which I thought was kinda sorry on not knowing what they are selling. I will describe it to the best of my ability without giving any pics: A 62" Takedown recurve that looks almost like a splitting image of the Martin Hatfield. It does have inscribed on the riser "Wesley Horne" and on each limb "#8647" with an "H" insignia under the number. I am unsure as to whether this was the customer or maker, but maybe you guys can help me with that one? Instead of the hex head, allen wrench limb bolts, it has knurled knobs that are hand adjustable. I nor the salesman are aware if the bow is capable of using a Fast-flight. And he outfitted it with a (so he says) Dacron string, although it is a Black and White twist that looks exactly like the Fast-flight on my compound! I am a SouthPaw which is one of the reasons I kinda jumped on the sale of the bow. It is not very often to find a LH in the used rack... As for the dominant eye thing, I got that covered. In the sixth grade I had an accident and had to have my lense replaced and can no longer focus with my right eye. So only my left eye truly "WORKS" in the technical sense of operation.
I kinda figured the accuracy part would come with time invested. But I am still curious about the consistency thing. Nonetheless, I am still happy with the purchase and oncoming foray. However, I am still eager for your knowledge and any tips you can give me. Thanks for all the replies you have given me so far and keep them coming if I don't drain you too much.
"Clutz by Nature, Hospitalized by Fate..."
Pyral
Let's start with the bow, I have no clue as to who made the bow and neither did the salesman which I thought was kinda sorry on not knowing what they are selling. I will describe it to the best of my ability without giving any pics: A 62" Takedown recurve that looks almost like a splitting image of the Martin Hatfield. It does have inscribed on the riser "Wesley Horne" and on each limb "#8647" with an "H" insignia under the number. I am unsure as to whether this was the customer or maker, but maybe you guys can help me with that one? Instead of the hex head, allen wrench limb bolts, it has knurled knobs that are hand adjustable. I nor the salesman are aware if the bow is capable of using a Fast-flight. And he outfitted it with a (so he says) Dacron string, although it is a Black and White twist that looks exactly like the Fast-flight on my compound! I am a SouthPaw which is one of the reasons I kinda jumped on the sale of the bow. It is not very often to find a LH in the used rack... As for the dominant eye thing, I got that covered. In the sixth grade I had an accident and had to have my lense replaced and can no longer focus with my right eye. So only my left eye truly "WORKS" in the technical sense of operation.
I kinda figured the accuracy part would come with time invested. But I am still curious about the consistency thing. Nonetheless, I am still happy with the purchase and oncoming foray. However, I am still eager for your knowledge and any tips you can give me. Thanks for all the replies you have given me so far and keep them coming if I don't drain you too much.
"Clutz by Nature, Hospitalized by Fate..."
Pyral
12-03-2002, 05:17 PM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Stockton NJ USA
Posts: 119
RE: Techniques for a Beginner
The previous posts give great advise. Distance really amplifies small inconsistencies in form.
Although few people do it, I am a big advocate of blank bale shooting. This is point blank distance shooting with your eyes closed. Start all shooting sessions with 6-12 shots this way and you will be better able to self diagnose the causes of bad shots.
I may get flamed for suggesting this one. Drawing 47#s is not unreasonable but it will take time to work up to shooting say 3 dozen shots per practice session without fatique taking a toll on accuracy. My suggestion is to buy an old round wheel compound bow (wood riser of course!) and shoot half your session with it. A 60# bow will give you a 30-35# holding weight. You can buy one on eBay for $50. After you get really good, sell it on eBay for $50. The only reason I don't suggest another recurve at 30-35# draw is the cost (used price $100 and up).
Have fun!
Although few people do it, I am a big advocate of blank bale shooting. This is point blank distance shooting with your eyes closed. Start all shooting sessions with 6-12 shots this way and you will be better able to self diagnose the causes of bad shots.
I may get flamed for suggesting this one. Drawing 47#s is not unreasonable but it will take time to work up to shooting say 3 dozen shots per practice session without fatique taking a toll on accuracy. My suggestion is to buy an old round wheel compound bow (wood riser of course!) and shoot half your session with it. A 60# bow will give you a 30-35# holding weight. You can buy one on eBay for $50. After you get really good, sell it on eBay for $50. The only reason I don't suggest another recurve at 30-35# draw is the cost (used price $100 and up).
Have fun!
