Wahya

Welcome, it's good to see you posting with us.

First, lets get the important stuff out of the way. What brand and model bow did you buy? Do you know what woods it's made from?

Now the real important stuff. What type of string came with the bow? Is it dacron or one of the low stretch types of material? If it's dacron, is it fastflight compatible? What is your draw with the bow and what is the actual poundage at your draw? Are you right handed or left handed? Which is your dominant eye?

Several factors go into choosing the correct spined arrow for the bow you are shooting. The actual poundage at your actual draw, meaning that if you are pulling 29" with the bow, you would be pulling 50#, 30" would be 53# and so on. Well, within a pound or so. The cut of the riser has an affect on the spine you can shoot. For instance, a bow that isn't cut to or past center at the shelf, will take an arrow of weaker spine than a bow that's shelf is cut to or past center. The material of the string has an affect on spine too. A dacron string will take one spine and a bow that has a low stretch string like fastflight or 450+ or dynaflight can shoot an arrow about 5# heavier in spine at the weight your bow is pulling. If your release is less than perfect, an arrow heavier in spine can compensate and stabilize the flight of the arrow. The length of the arrow has a bearing on the spine of the arrow, but I'm sure that the proshop understands that one and compensated for the 30" length of the arrows you received. One thing that can't be relied on for picking the proper spine for a recurve is Eastons arrow chart, lol. It is notorious for recommending arrows that are 10# too heavy in spine.

As far as your hit and miss goes, welcome to traditional, no sights archery lol. The term certainly applies here, that practice makes perfect. Accuracy depends entirely on consistency of form. Get close to the backstop, leaving enough room for the arrow to clear the riser and shoot. Don't try for accuracy, but instead work on holding the bow the same way each time including how you grip it. Work on a steady bow arm, a consistent and solid anchor, a consistent draw and a consistent release. All of these things come into play for becoming accurate and if you work on them without worrying about the accuracy aspect of it, eventually as you back up some, you'll notice that your arrows start grouping together more and more and your accuracy will just fall into place.

Most of all, have fun with it.

Make em sharp and shoot em straight, or leave em home.