Struggling with Broadhead Choice
#11
Giant Nontypical
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I like the way Zwickey does their bleeder blades. Little flaps punched out of the ferrule, folded out and sharpened. They don't break off and hide in the meat like razorblade bleeders can.
I think if I wanted to shoot a 3-blade screw-in, I'd just go with a 125 Muzzy. Flat stone that trocar tip to razor sharpness and it's exactly like a cut-on-contact head.
I think if I wanted to shoot a 3-blade screw-in, I'd just go with a 125 Muzzy. Flat stone that trocar tip to razor sharpness and it's exactly like a cut-on-contact head.
#12
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Nontypical Buck
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From:
ORIGINAL: Arthur P
I like the way Zwickey does their bleeder blades. Little flaps punched out of the ferrule, folded out and sharpened. They don't break off and hide in the meat like razorblade bleeders can.
I think if I wanted to shoot a 3-blade screw-in, I'd just go with a 125 Muzzy. Flat stone that trocar tip to razor sharpness and it's exactly like a cut-on-contact head.
I like the way Zwickey does their bleeder blades. Little flaps punched out of the ferrule, folded out and sharpened. They don't break off and hide in the meat like razorblade bleeders can.
I think if I wanted to shoot a 3-blade screw-in, I'd just go with a 125 Muzzy. Flat stone that trocar tip to razor sharpness and it's exactly like a cut-on-contact head.
Why so?
#13
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
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Because I said so.
[8D]
I have not used Razorcaps, so I'm not saying Muzzy is better. However, I've used Muzzy heads at sub-50 lb draw weights and they performed well, so I'm recommending something based on what I know has worked for me in the past.

[8D]
I have not used Razorcaps, so I'm not saying Muzzy is better. However, I've used Muzzy heads at sub-50 lb draw weights and they performed well, so I'm recommending something based on what I know has worked for me in the past.

#15
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Inverness, MS
I went out and shot my Magnus heads last night..... At first they were grouping about 5 inches to the right...... I expected that b/c I knew my arrows were a tad weak. I went back in, and cut just under and inch off and then glued them back on. Went back out and those things were flying like darts....... I don't know if this is possible, but I think my broadheads were flying better than field tips........ I'm cocked, locked and ready to rock!!!!
Come on October 1!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Come on October 1!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#16
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Nontypical Buck
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From:
I assume you are using tapered glue on heads? What shafts? I assume wood of some sort.
How hard was it to arrive at the right spine with woodies for the head weight you wanted to shoot?
How hard was it to arrive at the right spine with woodies for the head weight you wanted to shoot?
#17
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Inverness, MS
I'm using cedar shafts. And yep they are tapered.
Man I'mnot really up to date on the technical stuff. I just told the guy I was buying the arrows from what weight bow I was pulling and I asked him to leave the arrows a couple of inches long so I could make adjustments. I guess I just got lucky, only had to make one adjustment to get them grouping with field tips.
I just ordered 500 Ramin dowels from Altas. I plan to make a spine tester and get a grain scale. These dang cedar arrows are just too expensive and too fragile.
Man I'mnot really up to date on the technical stuff. I just told the guy I was buying the arrows from what weight bow I was pulling and I asked him to leave the arrows a couple of inches long so I could make adjustments. I guess I just got lucky, only had to make one adjustment to get them grouping with field tips.
I just ordered 500 Ramin dowels from Altas. I plan to make a spine tester and get a grain scale. These dang cedar arrows are just too expensive and too fragile.
#18
Giant Nontypical
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It's no harder to get the correct spine woodies than it is for aluminum. Wood shafts are cataloged by spine range for a 28" draw. Like a 60-65 would be the right arrow to try for a bow drawing 60-65 pounds at 28". Make up a couple of arrows full length and shoot. If they act weak - which is what you want at this point - then cut a half inch off and try again. Keep shooting and cutting until the arrows are the right spine for your bow.
If the arrow winds up spining up shorter than you want to shoot, then you go up to 65-70 spine shafts and do the process again. If the arrow winds up longer than you want to shoot, then you drop down to 55-60's and try them.
I don't have the luxury of being able to cut my wood arrows down. When I find some shafts long enough, I taper the nock end, taper the front end and that's my arrow. So, I have to figure out what spine I need before I buy shafts. I have to know what my draw weight is at my draw length.
I know my arrows will have to finish out a minimum 31 1/2" to back of point. For each inch past 28", you add 5 pounds. At 31", I add 15 pounds. Then another 5 pounds for the extra half inch. So, for my 50 pound bow, I need 65-70 spine shafts.
Of course, if your arrows are shorter than 28", you reverse the process. Subtract 5 pounds per inch. So, you shoot a 60 pound bow and use a 26" arrow - you'll likely wind up with a 50-55 spine.
Here's a link to AMO standards. Got a whole lot of useful info on it, including a wood arrow spine deflection chart. It's in PDF format, so you need Adobe Acrobat to open it. http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/AMO/AMOStandards.pdf
Texasarchery.org has a whole lot of great stuff on it. Click on "Documents" in the side menu.
If the arrow winds up spining up shorter than you want to shoot, then you go up to 65-70 spine shafts and do the process again. If the arrow winds up longer than you want to shoot, then you drop down to 55-60's and try them.
I don't have the luxury of being able to cut my wood arrows down. When I find some shafts long enough, I taper the nock end, taper the front end and that's my arrow. So, I have to figure out what spine I need before I buy shafts. I have to know what my draw weight is at my draw length.
I know my arrows will have to finish out a minimum 31 1/2" to back of point. For each inch past 28", you add 5 pounds. At 31", I add 15 pounds. Then another 5 pounds for the extra half inch. So, for my 50 pound bow, I need 65-70 spine shafts.
Of course, if your arrows are shorter than 28", you reverse the process. Subtract 5 pounds per inch. So, you shoot a 60 pound bow and use a 26" arrow - you'll likely wind up with a 50-55 spine.
Here's a link to AMO standards. Got a whole lot of useful info on it, including a wood arrow spine deflection chart. It's in PDF format, so you need Adobe Acrobat to open it. http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/AMO/AMOStandards.pdf
Texasarchery.org has a whole lot of great stuff on it. Click on "Documents" in the side menu.
#19
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Nontypical Buck
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From:
Thanks Art.
One thing I noticed is your discussion doesn't include point weight? Surely correct spine has to take whether a person is shooting 125 or 200 grain tips? Doesn't point weight affect the spine one should buy before the fine tuning begins?
One thing I noticed is your discussion doesn't include point weight? Surely correct spine has to take whether a person is shooting 125 or 200 grain tips? Doesn't point weight affect the spine one should buy before the fine tuning begins?
#20
Giant Nontypical
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Yeah, I neglected to mention that, didn't I....[&:] Start off with 125 grains as standard point weight. Add or subtract 5 pounds in spine needed per 25 grains difference in tip weight.




