I was woundering if anyone knows how to bare shaft tune ,
I have paper tuned my bow with fletched arrows , and it shoots perfect,
but with a bare shaft the back kicks to the right, anyone have any sugestions on the subject.

If you are trying to paper tune a bare shaft you must turn one full turn off the draw weight to compensate for the reduction in weight of the fletching. This should eliminate your side kick. Bare shaft tuning is more precise when shooting at a backstop along with fletched arrows. This will show you the results of how your arrow is flying not how it's coming off the bow.

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloa...ning_guide.zip
Download that, and unzip it. You will need adobe acrobat reader to read it. Get it here http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html
A abosolute wealth of knowledge on bare shaft and paper tuning

I have never heard of turning you poundage down to bareshaft tune, nor would I suggest it. Bare shaft tuning is really more for finger shooters but can be used with a release. It is a good way to determine if you have proper spine for your set up. I wouldn't be as concerned with whether the arrow kicks one way or another when shot, but more where it impacts the target in relationship to the fletched arrow. And remember there are no set rules with bare shaft tuning with a release. You may have to try the opposite to get things to work correctly. And I would suggest working on your nocking point first, then work on your windage.

When I bare shaft tune I take a fletched arrow and trim the fletching off, leaving the base of the fletch and the glue on the arrow. This helps retain the weight but get rid of the steering. With feathers you retain almost all of the weight since most of the weight is in the base any way.

Along with the easton tuning guide check out this link as well.

http://www.bowhunting.net/bobragsdale/ragsdale.html


Also remember that in order to do this sort of tuning you need to shoot pretty well to begin with. You need to be steady and have good repeatable form or you will be adjusting things to no end. If you can't shoot 5 fletched arrows in a close group you won't be able to shoot fletched and non fletched arrows together either since it is harder. Many don't take this into account before trying bare shaft or fine tuning. The truth is any bow can be shot well whether it is tuned well or not, it just depends on how well the person can shoot. Tuning only makes it more forgiving for slight errors in your release or form.

Good luck,
Paul

Bare shaft tuning is THE MOST precise method available at this time IF you know what you're doing. I'm not very interested in how my arrow is passing through paper at 5, 10 or even 20 feet. I'm interested in an arrow that flies perfectly when released and impacts the target with the knock and broadhead on the same course. How many people have shot a perfect hole in paper than try a broadhead and find it impacts high right. Paper tuning is a very good tool for center shot. After that you can use the paper elseware. As for turning the bow back one turn, try it before you bad mouth it. It's good enough for the Olympic Training Center I'm sure it should be a decent tool for those that think paper tuning is the cats a--.[:-]

I only say that because none of what I have read or heard about bare shaft tuning suggests turning the bow down before you start. Besides, once you are done bare shaft tuning, then turn the limb bolts up again you have changed the tune in some way. Either the tiller, nocking point, or dynamic spine. And you don't know if it was correct or not after doing it. If you leave the bases on the fletches the weight does not change enough to warrant it. And one full turn would be over compensating any way in my opinion, it would depend on the bow you have really. Like my bowtech is only 2 1/2 turns for a 10 lb weight range. You also change the FOC of you arrow as well if you take all the fletchings off, turning your bow down will not compensate for it.

And by the way I have tried it so I guess I can give my opinion on it then.

And I know some Olympic archers, one runs a local shop near me. To be honest they don't really spend all that much time tuning thier equipment because they know how to shoot. Most feel if you spend more than an hour or so on tuning you are just wasting your time. Form aiming and release are MUCH more important.

Of course if you are going to shoot animals with fixed blades I say spend as much time as you can until you get the results you are happy with.

And again remember, when using a release you can't go by what is listed in the tuning guides, you just have to experiment. The guides were meant for finger shooters. And with a release and a string loop things are even harder because the arrow flexes up and down not side to side. So spine issues may show up as high or low hits, not off to the side.

Paul

I never paper tune. When I set a bow up I bare shaft at 20 yards and adjust until both fletch and bare shafts group together. If you have an arrow scale, wrap tape on the rear of the bare shaft until the grains equal your fletched arrow. Of course the tape method will only work on fall away rests. It usually takes me about 20-30 minutes to tune my bows. I used this method last year and 2 days later took a state title with it and got my elk and turkey. IMO group tuning in this manner is the best way to get pinpoint accuracy. I have known guys to take weeks to get a bow tuned. As the year progresses I will check the tune of my bow by shooting bare shafts with my fletched arrows to see if I may have experienced any string stretch. It is a quick easy check that can be done anywhere anytime.