Adjusting limb bolts
#1
Is it OK to shoot a bow that has the limb bolt(s) tightened down all the way? I had to adjust the tiller on my bow and in order to do so I tightened the bolts down all the way. I then had to back the top bolt out 3/4 of a turn to get the tiller correct. Am I risking damage to the bow or injury to myself leaving it like this?
#5
That OK, in fact all bows will shoot their peak performance at their peak draw weight. By screwing the limb bolts in all the way puts you at peak or slightly over peak which is OK. My bow draw weight is 60lbs and I am set at 62lbs. Take your bow to someone who has a draw weight scale and see what you draw weight is. If you have a deer scale used fro weighing deer you can use that.
good luck
good luck
#7
ORIGINAL: JeffB
How are you measuring tiller Jeramy?
Regardless, having the bolts all the way in is fine if tiller is OK.
How are you measuring tiller Jeramy?
Regardless, having the bolts all the way in is fine if tiller is OK.
I measured the tiller 2 ways. First, I used a regular bow square off the string and measured top and bottom. This showed a 1/8" difference. Taking advice from another thread I also too a straight edge and lined it up with the axles on the outside of the e-clips. I then used the bow square from that straight edge and measured. I received the same measurement ... tiller was 1/8" off.
I was going to leave it as is but after reading the owners manual it mentioned that 1/8-1/4" is enough to cause problems so I decided to tinker. Normally I'd just get in the car and run to the shop to have them deal with it. However in reading some posts through this forum I felt this was something I could take care of myself.
After taking the measurements it was time to adjust the limb bolts. Since I had never turned them before I had no idea how far they were already backed out so I decided to tighten them up all the way and start from there. With both limb bolts tightened down I re-measured the tiller. There was still a difference, maybe a hair or two under 1/8". I backed the top limb bolt out 1/2 a turn and re-measured. I was down to about 1/16" difference. I backed the top limb out another 1/2 turn again and re-measured which turned out to be too much. So I tightened down 1/4 on the top limb and now the tiller is dead on. (Or at least very very close)
I never touched the bottom limb so it's still tightened down all the way. The top is backed down 3/4 of a turn. My nock point is now approx. 1/8" lower so I need to re-adjust that today.
#8
Jeremy,
As everyone has already said, having the limb bolts tightened all the way is fine. The problem I see with your post is that you just tightened the limb bolts all the way from the start. This definatley increased your draw weight. If your bow was tuned properly before, it may not be now. Your arrows may not be spined correctly. The extra draw weight may affect how you draw/shoot also. It's better to gradually increase your draw weight and tune your bow accordingly with each increase. Check your draw weight now and then see if you have the correct arrows. If you don't, I would suggest you back it off a few pounds until next year when you can buy new arrows and tinker with the bow. If the arrows are OK, shoot the bow while trying to maintain correct form. If the draw weight is too high, back it off for now.
Steve
As everyone has already said, having the limb bolts tightened all the way is fine. The problem I see with your post is that you just tightened the limb bolts all the way from the start. This definatley increased your draw weight. If your bow was tuned properly before, it may not be now. Your arrows may not be spined correctly. The extra draw weight may affect how you draw/shoot also. It's better to gradually increase your draw weight and tune your bow accordingly with each increase. Check your draw weight now and then see if you have the correct arrows. If you don't, I would suggest you back it off a few pounds until next year when you can buy new arrows and tinker with the bow. If the arrows are OK, shoot the bow while trying to maintain correct form. If the draw weight is too high, back it off for now.
Steve
#9
Thanks Steve. 
I did take the time to re-tune the bow after changing the draw weight. The bow was set at 67lbs before but now it's pulling 71lbs. I honestly can't feel a before/after difference in the weight. I adjusted the nock point and made a change to my centershot as I noticed uneven wear on the tubing on my 2 prong rest. Right now it's shooting great but I will be paper tuning it this weekend to ensure it's ready to go for the hunting season.
I'll be picking up some new shafts this weekend. The current Beman shafts that I have are borderline for proper spine. I'm going to bump up to the next size.

I did take the time to re-tune the bow after changing the draw weight. The bow was set at 67lbs before but now it's pulling 71lbs. I honestly can't feel a before/after difference in the weight. I adjusted the nock point and made a change to my centershot as I noticed uneven wear on the tubing on my 2 prong rest. Right now it's shooting great but I will be paper tuning it this weekend to ensure it's ready to go for the hunting season.
I'll be picking up some new shafts this weekend. The current Beman shafts that I have are borderline for proper spine. I'm going to bump up to the next size.




