Bullet holes really don't mean squat I can get almost any spined shaft to "bullet hole" out of my bow. A little properly induced torque and some tunning fiddling and its a bullet hole at a certain distance. You are at the very starting point of a real good tune. For a hunter the best bet is always the real deal - shoot and tune with your broadheads.

The correct shaft will show its "forgiveness" when the ole blades are up front.

Good Luck

Is the 6 grain per pound rule important? If so how is it important?

Zack, I never heard 6 gr. However shooting under 5 grains per pound can damage your bow.


Rack, I understand you can get any arrow to "bullet hole" with induced torque at a certain distance, but what about if it is doing bullet holes w/o any "help" at 6-8ft.

First I would ask are you 100% sure there is no help?

And even if there is no help - again it is just a starting point. Bullet holes with fletched field tips in no way dictates a good tune for broadheads. It may be it may not be. The same point goes to group tuning field points - it does not mean the bow is tuned for broadheads. FP's are so forgiving that awfull paper tears and flight can group super tight.

I am not saying that good holes through paper are bad - just don't assume "she is really tuned because I am shooting bullet holes"

IMO you have to tune with the head your gonna bring to the game. Plumb bob, horizontal line tune, group tune and get em real tight - then forget the paper.

The 6 gr per pound rule doesn't apply to very short draw shooters.It is the AMO spec and there is a list on bowjackson sight if anyone is interested in looking at it.



With the extremely short draw the power stroke on the bow is very short so the lighter spine arrows are most likely the best arrow for Zack.Even if you decide to go up a few pounds.Chances are you will need new arrows before they are too light on spine.It would be different if you were pulling 30" draw and had an overdraw on the bow,you would definately need the stiffer arrow then.




Slightly stiff arrows are great and maybe even up to one size stiff on a chart will serve you well but I have found that when shooting a target rig that I want a PERFECTLY spined arrow(right down the middle of the Archers Advantage program) and when using a hunting setup I want to be slightly stiff but still in the green,if I go beyond that I start to see that the arrows are a little to touchy and the forgiveness is gone.



Nuge,a slightly stiff arrow may bullehole but that really doesn't mean much.A very slight adjustment of the rest may result in a bullethole but the centershot isn't perfect and the bow will not shoot as well in your hands as it could.It is actually better to have a slight tear with an overspined shaft and still have centershot set properly(group tuning should achieve this).This will be more forgiving and group better for the shooter.

What bow are you shooting and what is the IBO rating on that bow? Also if your draw length is 26.5, your arrow will probably be at least a good inch shorter.

If your really set on keeping your arrows at 26.5 then I'd get the lighter spined arrows. However, if you feel your going to up the weight later down the road, then I'd just get the 5575's and have them cut a couple of inches longer. That way they should spine good with the lower wieght, and further down the road when you do up the weight you can just cut them down to get the right spine.

You might want to check the charts at www.huntersfriend.com
I myself, shoot 35-55 GT Pro LItes and have not had any trouble shooting them from 55 to 65 lbs out of my Bowtechs. They hold very well and you must look at the charts to see what I'm referring to on the balance.