Rangeball,
It will be easier to determine left and rightnocks or up or down nocks if you are shooting at a rigid target like styrofoam. What you see from your shooting position will be determined by your own eye and therefore will be subjective. I try to give advice that others can duplicate. I don't measure tiller with a ruler. I do count turns on the limb bolt top and bottom and call it even enough to start tuning. There is always room for improvement unless every shot results in a "Robinhooded" shaft! I do post more detailed bowtuning information than most people. I change my own strings and cables and the relationship between tiller and nocking point adjustments does exist. I find that life is easier when I can adjust things with a wrench then when I use pliers. The Easton tuning guide shows one way, I use another, but both will work. I believe in using an experimental method that can be replicated. It has worked on my last dozen bows. If someone else wants to use an obsenely high nocking position they will probably have to adjust their tiller differently in order to get the bow to shoot straight. My experience with the whisker biscuit has been that even tillered bows will shoot real well with the arrow nocked at 90degrees. My own hunting arrows are Beman 340s, 31"long with 125 Magnus heads and they are fletched with three straight 3" feathers. The old style biscuit was not wearing the fletching. The new B-2 biscuits are softer than the old ones. The brown fibers are .007" in diameter and the black fibers are .010" in diameter. Even though there are probably more bristles in the new biscuit it shoots faster than the older biscuit. I'm not privy to what the new bristles are made of but I think they are of a different blend of material then the old ones. Hope this helped someone. Good luck hunting!

What I do, is very similar to Arroman, with a little difference. I set my string nocks, so the arrow is at 90 degrees to the string. I then adjust tiller, (to get a good vertical paper tear), by adjusting my limb bolts. Once in the field, group tuning, I usually move my string nocks a turn or two to tweak my groups. I could just as easily tweak my vertical adjustment by further tightening or loosening a limb bolt, an 1/8 turn at a time.

I have read where you can fine super tune a single cam for better nock travel by group tuning while making small adjustment to tiller. I haven't tried it, but may the next time I tune a single cam.

"Important things to Remember about tiller. 1. It general it doesn't matter on the performance of the bow. 2. Once set, the only time it matters is when it changes. 3. THE TILLER IN THE TOP LIMB SHOULD ALWAYS BE SET EQUAL TO OR MORE THEN THE BOTTOM LIMB." Larry Wise

"Tiller should never be less on the top, or more then 1/8 inch short on the bottom" Randy Collins

An even tillered bow shooting the correct spine arrows needs very little adjusting to shoot well. Nocking the arrow at 90degrees helps to eliminate nockpinch when shooting with fingers and also helps to eliminate torque on the arrow when using a release. this is especially helpful when shooting a shorter axle to axle length bow. Good luck hunting!

Couldn't be farther from the truth. A full containment rest such as the WB will actually amplify any slight arrow flight problems.

I think having an arrow inside a containment rest will definately show any deiciencies in shooting form because the arrow is still on the bow for the extra amount of arrow travel till it leaves the rest. The straightening effect of the whisker biscuit effects all of the fletchings simultainiously which would have a corrective effect or possible "false tune" but an untuned bow and rest are simply an untuned bow and rest regardless of the make of the bow or the make of the rest. Any bow will shoot best with the correct spine arrows. The best position for a rest can be different than the centerline of the bow. Grips are not always centered on the bow and cableguards will not always have the same amount of tension on them from one bow to the next. Balancing drawlength, braceheight, axle to axle length and hoping the cams are in correct time and the string and cable are adjusted correctly it seems tiller may be the one thing that we can get real close to perfect before dialing in some of the other variables.Good luck hunting!