texasaggiebowhunter

THANKS PAB, I HAVE THOUGHT OF SHOOTING A HEAVIER POINT BUT I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING SO GOOD LATELY I DIDNT WANT TO FIX WHAT AINT BROKE

riverknight007

there are charts out there for selecting broadheads, but it also depends on your fletching and fps, going to a pro shop that really knows what they are doing is probably the best way to do it. Make sure you find a shop that will give what is right for you, even if it is the cheapest one there. I have learned that the more expensive new broadheads are not necessarily any better than the old standby. Once you get a broadhead style you like just play a little with the weights ntil you find what fits you best. I have played around a lot with broadhead styles going from 2 to 3 blade broadheads to various mechanical broadheads and finally came back to 2 blade fixed broadheads. Accuracy and not size is the key because if you hit a deer in the liver with a 1.5" mech. broadhead it will take much longer to die, if at all than a 1" broadhead through both lungs. Consistncy is the key and for my that is 100 gr. First Cut 2-blade fixed broadheads. You can narrow it down, but it eventually gets down to just some guess and check.

riverknight007

there are charts out there for selecting broadheads, but it also depends on your fletching and fps, going to a pro shop that really knows what they are doing is probably the best way to do it. Make sure you find a shop that will give what is right for you, even if it is the cheapest one there. I have learned that the more expensive new broadheads are not necessarily any better than the old standby. Once you get a broadhead style you like just play a little with the weights ntil you find what fits you best. I have played around a lot with broadhead styles going from 2 to 3 blade broadheads to various mechanical broadheads and finally came back to 2 blade fixed broadheads. Accuracy and not size is the key because if you hit a deer in the liver with a 1.5" mech. broadhead it will take much longer to die, if at all than a 1" broadhead through both lungs. Consistncy is the key and for my that is 100 gr. First Cut 2-blade fixed broadheads. You can narrow it down, but it eventually gets down to just some guess and check.

PABowhntr

True, but then again we are only talking about picking up a half dozen 125 grain field points and screwing them into your arrows....temporarily if the results don't justify a change.

Straightarrow

I'm guessing that you are "shooting so good" using the broadheads that you hunt with. If not, then it's a whole new ballgame when using broadheads. Fixed blad broadheads fly straightest with heavy tips on arrows that are spined correctly, or a bit stiff. The only reason most don't want an FOC over 15% is that the arrow trajectory tends to fall off too rapidly on very high FOC arrows. The heavier tip, tends to pull the arrow on line, resisting side forces. Lots of drag, (read: 5" helical feather), helps to let the tip direct the arrow. When using a fixed blade broadhead, which will have the tendancy to plane off line, higher FOCs can be very helpful.

riverknight007

I agree with straightarrow if you have a broadhead on the tip it helps a lot to put some drag on the back end to stabilize the arrow. I shot with regular plastic fletching then switched to synthetic feathers and noticed a huge jump in my broadhead accuracy. I would definitely recommend synthetic feathers to resist damage from weather. I have shot them in snow, rain, heat and extreme cold and the synthetic feathers have always worked very well for me in all conditions with broadheads.

Orions_Bow

I like to shoot for a certain FOC - 10-13%. As such I have found that on most carbon arrows a 125 grain broadhead with 4 - 4" vanes falls right into that range.