mrfritz44

You're in the same boat I was recently. I came off an old Hoyt with a 30" draw length and wondered if I'd shrunk when they told me I needed a 29 or shorter. These new bows are very touchy when it comes to draw length and the right feel. Get that anchor set and be sure of it before you do any tuning. It'll keep you from chasing your tail regardless of what type of tuning you prefer.

Fritz

BTW, here's some good, balanced reading if you're getting into tinkering:

http://forum.hunting.net/asppg/tm.as...ticles&#545619

Montanarchery

I'm not sure I understand this method of group tuning? I've never had a problem with different left and right at different yardages. My group tuning is to shoot a 6 arrow group at 40 yards with numbered arrows so that if I let loose of any questionable shots (form or aiming) I can discount that arrow. First I'll look at the width of the group and start adjusting the left-right on the rest until i've got it as narrow as I can. Then I'll go to the heighth of the group, not worrying about where the group is hitting, and adjust the up-down on the rest. Once I have my groups as small as I can get them, I then start sighting in. I start at 30 with one or two arrows at a time and once I am in the dot there move back to 40 and shoot groups and adjust sight according to group center. Then do the same at 50 and your dialed in. I've found that the farther you sight in at the more acurate you are at short yardages, 20,30 yards. I also practice alot out to 60 yards and you wouldn't believe how much that helps at the short yardages. Ever since I started tuning this way I quit paper tuning also. Way better results with group tuning.

Arthur P

The 'group tuning' that we were talking about is usually called 'walkback tuning' in my neck of the woods.

muzzyman88

I feel that paper tuning has its place. I use it for one thing, elevation tuning. I try to get my high tear under control this way. Left and right tears don't concern me too much so long as they are not enormous. After I get a level tear left or right, I go to group or walk back tuning to do the rest. Works every time. I don't think a 5lb increase is going to get those results.

Group tuning is my bet at what cures it.

mrfritz44

I'll paper tune and then head out with an allen wrench to the range to make minor adjustments, if needed. After a good paper tear, however, I've almost always gotten good visual arrow flight at the range. By good visual arrow flight I mean that you can shoot an arrow from 40 or 50 yards and watch a very still nock arc downrange. The flight is distinctive in that the nock actually seems brighter because you can focus on it in the absense of any movement.

My hang up on paper comes from the fact that I don't usually have to make adjutsments after I paper tune. My groups are tight, broadheads hit the same, and I know that any shot that doesn't hit the dot was a result of a bad release. The key I've found to paper is knowing when to discount shots based on how your release feels. You've got to build a good "dataset" before you make any adjustments or you just chase your own tail.

I guess that's why most articles about paper tuning begin with a disclaimer that goes something like, "some people swear by it, while others curse it".

Now if I could just get that back tension thing down[:@]!

Fritz