cbanman

I am attempting bare shaft tuning for the first time and I am having some trouble. I started by paper tuning and couldn' t get rid of nock high right problem so I decided to try the BS tuning. My bare shafts are hitting way low and left at 15 yrds. According to Easton I should start by moving my nock point down and this hasn' t helped. Now my arrow has a distinct upward aim as it sits on the rest and I cant move sights up any higher to compensate for this. My nock point is obviously too low. Any ideas on how to help the problem would be appreciated. I am shooting a Reflex Denali at 66 lbs with Goldtip 5575 arrows and 75 gr points. 29 in draw and a D-loop. The rest is a GKF shootout with the lower prongs of the fixed screw type (no give to them) as the springy ones were LOUD. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Danny45

The only thing I can think of is that your nock point started out too low, and lowering it only increased the problem. Return your nock point to it' s original position and start moving it up in 1/16" increments. You may have been having the arrow kick up off the rest causing the high tear.

c903

1. Put your nock back at recommended height to start.
2. Now shoot a FLETCHED shaft. If still nock-high, raise your nock in small increments. Your shaft may be leaving nock-low and clipping your rest. Consequently, you will be mislead into lowering your nock. Keep raising your nock in small increments until nock-high stops or you see you nocking point is now becoming too high.
3. If you reach what you believe is max nocking height but problem does not go away, put your nock back at recommended height.
4. Check for fletch clearance problem on rest. Rotate your nock to correct clearance if contact is occurring.

If all of the above is correct and nock-high tear still remains, the problem may be what I suspected from git-go. Your rest is too stiff. Apparently, according to what you have said, your rest is solid and has no give at all. A too stiff rest can be notorious for causing nock-high flight.

As for the right tear, if it is consistent I suspect that your shaft spine is too stiff. Does your shaft @ draw weight and length actually allow for a 75-grain head?

cbanman

C903

I had the same thoughs about arrow spine so I tried adjusting draw wt. up and down with no change. I also tried a 100gr point with the same results. I' ll start with the nock point and see if moving it up works. If not I' ll put my old rest on and see if that helps.

c903

I once had the same problem. I could not stop a nock-high entry even though I almost completely dismantled my bow and retuned it several times. I started blaming the new bow.

I finally sat down and mentally went through all the possible causes. I finally discovered the problem was the tension adjustment on my rest. A very slight adjustment solved the problem.....after a week of frustration.

Not saying that your problem is definately the tension on the rest, but if you are using a mechanical release on a centershot rest, I would not be surprised to find that rest tension is the culprit. Also, if it is, and you start to see the nock-high entry disappear but not entirely, now play with your draw-weight.

However, nock-high caused by shaft spine usually indicates a weak spine. I would think that a 75 grain head on your shaft @ your draw-weight/length would not cause a weak spine issue. But then, carbon shafts appear to have a mind of their own. [:@]

Arthur P

Have you checked to make sure your tiller is set equal on both limbs?

AKDoug

I have found the GT 5575' s to be too weak in spine for my single cam Newberry at 65# with a 28" arrow. I bought 6 new 7595' s and man do they work better.

cbanman

AKDoug,
No kidding? What grain tip do you shoot? I actually found a problem with my rest after a bit of tinkering and got it to shoot a bullet hole today. Bare shafts and fletched arrows were hitting very near the same mark at 15 yrds. I may back the poundage down a bit to see if that helps a little more.

AKDoug

I only shoot 100' s. Yep, I doubted it too, but I' m getting more consistency out of the stiffer shafts. The pro shop I go to says that in their experience the spline of the GT' s is on the weak side and that most of the hotter new bows compound the problem. Same thing happened with my Bemans. I have a batch of 400' s that I couldn' t tune, but the 340' s were just fine.

cbanman

Thanks for the help eveyone. I think I got it figured out. My rest angle had moved causing my arrows to kick out of it. I straighted things out and I' ve got the bullet holes back.