Blazer Vanes or QAD LD Rest Problems, what should I do?!?
08-05-2009, 07:26 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Allegany County Maryland
Posts: 1,977
why not DIY it ?
In my opinion, looking at the second pic where the launcher is ****ed I think your arrow is pointing upwards, meaning you need to move the rest up or lower the nocking point. Second of all, the pull cord si set too high on your cable and that's making it drop too slow. I am shooting a fast bowtech airborne 82nd with a QAD and blazers and it works fine.
This is probably the best link about the subject;
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tech...away-rest.html
If not try contacting QAD , they are very helpful !
Frank
Belgium
In my opinion, looking at the second pic where the launcher is ****ed I think your arrow is pointing upwards, meaning you need to move the rest up or lower the nocking point. Second of all, the pull cord si set too high on your cable and that's making it drop too slow. I am shooting a fast bowtech airborne 82nd with a QAD and blazers and it works fine.
This is probably the best link about the subject;
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/tech...away-rest.html
If not try contacting QAD , they are very helpful !
Frank
Belgium
I think you meant raise nock point or lower rest right? I am not sure what you mena by the pull cord is too high?? If I set the pull cord any lower it yanks the launcher into full 90degree position about mid draw??
I might be missing something though?
Last edited by WesternMdHardwoods; 08-05-2009 at 07:33 AM.
08-05-2009, 07:29 AM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Allegany County Maryland
Posts: 1,977
I'm glad you found that link so I didn't have to Frank!
WestMD:
Just by looking at the picture from the 'shooter perspective' of your loaded arrow... I'd say your center shot is off quite a bit. Pictures can be quite deceiving though. I agree with Frank as well... that it looks like you are nock low... while this won't effect left side contact with the riser... it will definately effect arrow flight. If your Martin is a single cam, it should be set up plum or 1/16 to 1/8 nock high (and that is the measurement from the bottom of the arrow... not the bottom of the nock! The nock and the bottom of the arrow are often at least 1/16th different from each other!).
There are two timing marks on the rest body and thumbwheel. When you draw the bow, you should see those marks come into alignment about 1-1.5" before your are at full draw. No more than 1.5"! I like to tie mine in place, but you can certainly use that clamp to the same end.
WestMD:
Just by looking at the picture from the 'shooter perspective' of your loaded arrow... I'd say your center shot is off quite a bit. Pictures can be quite deceiving though. I agree with Frank as well... that it looks like you are nock low... while this won't effect left side contact with the riser... it will definately effect arrow flight. If your Martin is a single cam, it should be set up plum or 1/16 to 1/8 nock high (and that is the measurement from the bottom of the arrow... not the bottom of the nock! The nock and the bottom of the arrow are often at least 1/16th different from each other!).
There are two timing marks on the rest body and thumbwheel. When you draw the bow, you should see those marks come into alignment about 1-1.5" before your are at full draw. No more than 1.5"! I like to tie mine in place, but you can certainly use that clamp to the same end.
I will check the centershot when I get to shoot again. The timeing marks line up, that was the first thing I checked? I also checked the timing last night and actually have the rest popping up at about the last 1/2" or better on draw??
08-05-2009, 05:18 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
What Frank is talking about is moving the timing cord down like 1/8" (or less even). You can even just take a Bic lighter and kiss the drop cord... you'll see it move a bit..... it will take the slack/shrink out of it. That will get that rest coming taught a bit sooner. 1/2" before full draw is probably too late. But I still don't think thats necessarily your issue. Make sure you index your odd vane up.
Read that set-up I wrote that Frank posted a link too... its got over 30 pictures of what I'm talking about.
08-05-2009, 07:42 PM
#14
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Allegany County Maryland
Posts: 1,977
What Frank is talking about is moving the timing cord down like 1/8" (or less even). You can even just take a Bic lighter and kiss the drop cord... you'll see it move a bit..... it will take the slack/shrink out of it. That will get that rest coming taught a bit sooner. 1/2" before full draw is probably too late. But I still don't think thats necessarily your issue. Make sure you index your odd vane up.
Read that set-up I wrote that Frank posted a link too... its got over 30 pictures of what I'm talking about.
Read that set-up I wrote that Frank posted a link too... its got over 30 pictures of what I'm talking about.
08-05-2009, 11:05 PM
#15
Spike
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Barbour Co. West Virginia
Posts: 90
I am gonna do something I haven't done many times over the years, but I am gonna disagree with Swamp that the centershot is out. I say this as evidenced by the pins in relation to the string, aligning them would put the rest real close to center. It is just how it is being held in the picture.
Are all your arrows having clearance issues? If so, are the nocks all turned the same way?
I think you have two issues. You have a rest not getting out of the way fast enough....with this I agree with the two above. However, I also think that if your nocks are all aligned like this one...you need to turn them so that the **** fletch is more straight up. The fletch you say is hitting is turned downward. If the rest isn't getting out of the way, this will make it more pronounced.
This is why I simply don't like the QAD, never did. I know it can be a fine rest, but not for me. Trophy Takers and WB's are my fav's.
Are all your arrows having clearance issues? If so, are the nocks all turned the same way?
I think you have two issues. You have a rest not getting out of the way fast enough....with this I agree with the two above. However, I also think that if your nocks are all aligned like this one...you need to turn them so that the **** fletch is more straight up. The fletch you say is hitting is turned downward. If the rest isn't getting out of the way, this will make it more pronounced.
This is why I simply don't like the QAD, never did. I know it can be a fine rest, but not for me. Trophy Takers and WB's are my fav's.
08-06-2009, 01:06 AM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Where the ducks don't come no more
Posts: 4,420
I am gonna do something I haven't done many times over the years, but I am gonna disagree with Swamp that the centershot is out. I say this as evidenced by the pins in relation to the string, aligning them would put the rest real close to center. It is just how it is being held in the picture.
Are all your arrows having clearance issues? If so, are the nocks all turned the same way?
I think you have two issues. You have a rest not getting out of the way fast enough....with this I agree with the two above. However, I also think that if your nocks are all aligned like this one...you need to turn them so that the **** fletch is more straight up. The fletch you say is hitting is turned downward. If the rest isn't getting out of the way, this will make it more pronounced.
This is why I simply don't like the QAD, never did. I know it can be a fine rest, but not for me. Trophy Takers and WB's are my fav's.
Are all your arrows having clearance issues? If so, are the nocks all turned the same way?
I think you have two issues. You have a rest not getting out of the way fast enough....with this I agree with the two above. However, I also think that if your nocks are all aligned like this one...you need to turn them so that the **** fletch is more straight up. The fletch you say is hitting is turned downward. If the rest isn't getting out of the way, this will make it more pronounced.
This is why I simply don't like the QAD, never did. I know it can be a fine rest, but not for me. Trophy Takers and WB's are my fav's.
Hey I respect your opinion as much or more than anyone's dry... just like customers callin' on the phone... its dang hard to diagnose anything you don't have in your hands.
WMD:
Absolutely take what DR wrote seriously. He knows his stuff and has been doing this WAY before I was even a twinkle in my daddy's eye.
My only other question is.... you say when you index odd vane up.... that you have a vane 'basically' touching your closest cable..... is it actually touching or hitting? Or does it look like its going to when you eyeball it?
One other little thing to try too that I've found has worked often with the Hunter models (that are prone to bounceback)... trying sliding the whole rest forward about 1/4" or so. I can see you have it set back just a bit... so you have some wiggle room. Slide it foward until you can just fit a credit card between it and the riser shelf. Just loosen the berger and set screws... slide it up and re-tighten, making sure the works are still level.
08-06-2009, 07:29 AM
#17
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Allegany County Maryland
Posts: 1,977
[quote=SwampCollie;3401079]Hey I respect your opinion as much or more than anyone's dry... just like customers callin' on the phone... its dang hard to diagnose anything you don't have in your hands.
WMD:
Absolutely take what DR wrote seriously. He knows his stuff and has been doing this WAY before I was even a twinkle in my daddy's eye.
It is not touching but I dont have enough room to slide a paper towel through what gap is there.
I will try this after I re-check and make sure my left/right is good and see if I still need to move my nock high a little more?!?
Thanks
WMD:
Absolutely take what DR wrote seriously. He knows his stuff and has been doing this WAY before I was even a twinkle in my daddy's eye.
My only other question is.... you say when you index odd vane up.... that you have a vane 'basically' touching your closest cable..... is it actually touching or hitting? Or does it look like its going to when you eyeball it?
One other little thing to try too that I've found has worked often with the Hunter models (that are prone to bounceback)... trying sliding the whole rest forward about 1/4" or so. I can see you have it set back just a bit... so you have some wiggle room. Slide it foward until you can just fit a credit card between it and the riser shelf. Just loosen the berger and set screws... slide it up and re-tighten, making sure the works are still level.
Thanks
08-06-2009, 08:05 PM
#18
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HENDERSON KY USA
Posts: 6,634
I'm glad you found that link so I didn't have to Frank!
WestMD:
Just by looking at the picture from the 'shooter perspective' of your loaded arrow... I'd say your center shot is off quite a bit. Pictures can be quite deceiving though. I agree with Frank as well... that it looks like you are nock low... while this won't effect left side contact with the riser... it will definately effect arrow flight. If your Martin is a single cam, it should be set up plum or 1/16 to 1/8 nock high (and that is the measurement from the bottom of the arrow... not the bottom of the nock! The nock and the bottom of the arrow are often at least 1/16th different from each other!).
There are two timing marks on the rest body and thumbwheel. When you draw the bow, you should see those marks come into alignment about 1-1.5" before your are at full draw. No more than 1.5"! I like to tie mine in place, but you can certainly use that clamp to the same end.
WestMD:
Just by looking at the picture from the 'shooter perspective' of your loaded arrow... I'd say your center shot is off quite a bit. Pictures can be quite deceiving though. I agree with Frank as well... that it looks like you are nock low... while this won't effect left side contact with the riser... it will definately effect arrow flight. If your Martin is a single cam, it should be set up plum or 1/16 to 1/8 nock high (and that is the measurement from the bottom of the arrow... not the bottom of the nock! The nock and the bottom of the arrow are often at least 1/16th different from each other!).
There are two timing marks on the rest body and thumbwheel. When you draw the bow, you should see those marks come into alignment about 1-1.5" before your are at full draw. No more than 1.5"! I like to tie mine in place, but you can certainly use that clamp to the same end.
08-06-2009, 09:17 PM
#19
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Allegany County Maryland
Posts: 1,977
The pics are decieving i probably have a good 1/4" there worth of loop! i actually wish it could be shorter, but then I know I would have problems there!!