Here' s my quandry, if I set my cams in sync at rest then when I pull the bow back they dont break over & bottom out at the same time. To get them to bottom out at the same time I twisted some cables and made it happen but when the bow is at rest the cams are not in sync (top cam is more advanced).

1. When initially setting the cam timing should you set them so they' re in time at rest or at full draw?

2. Neither of the above Cargo, your bow has a weak limb do this....

3. None of the above....

Cargo,
Was the bow initially in synch at rest and also at full draw right out of the box? I' m assuming that you are following the timing marks on the cams.........you are assuming that they we' re drawn correctly at the factory?
For right now forget the drawn on marks, and use the cams themselves for at rest measurements. Find a land mark that you can relate to on each cam and measure that landmark in relation to another static object on the bow (limb fork edge etc.)

Try that and see what you find.

I bought the bow used and the guy originally had it at 26 inch draw. There are some timing marks on the cams with a magic marker and they were centered when I got the bow. I' m not sure if those were from the factory or from the guy who owned it.

I have some real good landmarks on the cams like the seem where the draw length module meets the cam. From that I can see that the cams at rest are out, but when I draw the bow they both bottom out at the same time. I' m not sure if that' s indicative of a problem or thats just the way it is. When I use a good landmark to put them in time at rest they dont bottom out at the same time, the top cam is late. Should I just set them in time at rest and creep tune from there? Creep tuning is VERY difficult with this bow.

This cut from the Bowtech manual on Dual Cam timing.

" TIMING BowTech dual cam bows are factory synchronized with the cables hitting
the mod walls at the same time, at full draw."

I think I' ll start with that.

Cargo, the cams are synched at full draw at the factory.

Measure the tiller on each limb and if needed make adjustments so they are equal. Then sync the cams at full draw. I just made a drawing board to draw my Duallys to almost full draw. I used a hand winch and a turnbuckle for fine adjustments. I' m going to fine tune the cam synchronization by serving the yoke area of the buss cables as needed. If you pinch the " Y" of the yoke, you' ll see that it slightly moves the cam. Sync them at full draw with an arrow on the string, or just a nock, and your release for best results. I' ll try to post a pic or get someone to do it for me when I' m done with it. The cost is less than $20.00.

All good advice here

WWAG gave the barebones of it with:

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Also I' ve found that it' s best to NOT synch using the cable loop end to make adjustments. Use the Split harness on the other side (i.e. if your top cam needs work, do it at the split on the bottom). Make an even number of twists on each side of the split harness, to avoid messing with cam lean.

Go to Archerytalk.com and look for " Dually Tuning Made Easy" where I' ve posted some pics of the tuning board.

When I " supertune" my 2 cams I generally wind up with the top cam firing just ahead of the bottom cam. Not enough I can really feel it when I come to full draw, just a little. You might want to do that before you get them timed exactly and then have to redo things.