huntmup

I've finally decided to start learning about building arrows - I've watched it done a TON and I'd like to be able to repair my 3d vanes as needed thru the season - SO...

I bought a Bitz - LW Helical

1) The Bitz has 3 'spots' on it - how do you fletch a 4 vane arrow with it? (spot/3d is 3 vane hunting is 4)

2) How do you strip Bohning dip from arrows (have a few dozen I'd like to re-fletch to learn & play with but they are crested...)

3) Once stripped can you just dip the arrow in rubbing alcohol to 'clean' it, then let it dry, then fletch it?

4) How can you tell what degree helical the jig is set for? Is there 'too much' helical? (using drop away rest - contact isn't an issue)

Thanks!



Aim small miss small

AK

Good for you man! You bought the best with a Bitz.

1) Changing from 3 to 4 fletch is just a matter of threading in/out the allen screws on the nock index.

2) Strip the fletchings off with a pocket knife or commericial stripping tool, then use a rag and acetone or laquer thinner to strip the crown and cresting. Complete removal may or may not require soaking in a vase full of acetone for a couple of hours. Done this with aluminum arrows.

3) Already taken care of in step 2.

4) Trial and error. Use fletch tape (or any other double stick tape really) to temporarily mount fletchings, but DON'T push down hard on the fletchings to seat them. Put the arrow on your bow to see how they clear your rest, then peel the feathers off and make adjustments as necessary. Use the index marks on the jig for a reference.

5) Have fun!

Here's a few that I've done. From left-right, they include arrows of: white pine (pheasant arrows), western larch, douglass fir, and laminated birch.

huntmup

SWEET!!!!

AK - I'm assuming acetone is the best substance to use for cresting removal then..??

I see the circles around the arrow on the cresting - at the start and at differnet intervals through crest - do you have an arrow spinning machine to do this? Which do you use?

Also - for carbons AND aluminum arrows - what's the best way to cut off the shafts??

Tnks!


Aim small miss small

pdq 5oh

huntmup, unless you want to invest in cut-off saw, have a shop cut your shafts. They must be cut square to get good flight, especially with broadheads.

Phil.
&quot;Could you guys be quiet, my dad's trying to shoot.&quot;<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

huntmup

Phil - that then brings me to another question....

The shop cutoff saw (that I saw) holds the nock on one end & you slide the other end in to, and through a cut-off wheel on a grinder looking device.

BUT - when you do this you actually are cutting the arrow at a slight angle - insert the insert & only PART of it is touching the true end of the arrow (you can see silver insert on the *other* side of the arrow).

To me, it should be set up similar to our portable saw mill we used on the farm. The mill has a deck (shelf) on which you place the log (arrow shaft in this case) then the entire deck rotates into the blade, providing a square cut.

Are most cut-off saws/decks set up like the one I SAW or like I think it should be??

The one I SAW has cut many a shaft and I've never had alignment issues - I always assumed the length of the insert fixed the alignment and the fact that there was a slight angle on the cut was irrelevant.



Aim small miss small

The Mouse

I will try to answer the saw/shaft alignment question. It is true that the shaft is at a slight angle when being cut. But, if the arrow saw is properly set up, you are only cutting through about 1/3 of the diameter of the shaft at a time and must rotate the shaft to get a complete and burr free cut. By rotating the shaft you are cutting a certain length through all 360 degrees of arc. This creates a perpendicular cut and the insert should fit perfectly flush.

If you used a chop saw motion rather than a partial cut rotation, chances are good that you would leave a burr or cause a splintering on carbon shafts.

HuntingNet Member since Spring 2001

huntmup

Mouse this one does only cut in about 1/3 - then you rotate the shaft to cut the rest - but where that original 1/3 cuts in isn't quiet the same as the rest of the end - but like I said - it's done thousands of shafts without problem...

Thanks for all the info!



Aim small miss small

The Mouse

Curious. I just took a look at my Apple A-1 arrow saw. My abrasive blade is relatively new having only cut a couple of dozen arrows to length. I don't see how it would be possible for the first 1/3 of the cut (on my saw anyway) to be different than the rest. My shafts are cut completely perpendicular and the inserts are completely flush. When I cut, I insert the shaft and then rotate it making two or three complete turns.

If my blade was too small in diameter, then I could see where the approach angle to the cut would sufficient to cause a bias cut. Just guessing here, but I would check to make sure that the blade isn't too worn down. You said the saw had made 1000's of cuts so is the blade original? Ideally, you want the cut to be as perfect as possible because the insert may not be able to make up for any bias in the cut.

I'm new to arrow building myself having just a year or so under my belt and am learning new things all the time. I hadn't thought about the cut angle issue until you brought it up.

HuntingNet Member since Spring 2001