In my opinion, the difference in drag between broadheads, at 20 yards would be not be easily measured. Pay close attention to Len's Trilogy. I'd put a lot more emphasis on tuning the arrow if you want to see results like what we're talking about. However, all three are important. The only reason a properly aligned broadhead will plane more than another, is because the setup is not tuned correctly to shoot it.

Roskoe, I see you're from Colorado. So I would suggest you stay away from mechanicals because you are likely to be hunting larger critters like elk. I personally don't think they work well on bigger animals. (I used to use NAP Spitfire's). The therory is that the energy needed at impact to open the blades greatly reduces the penetration.

I am of the school that believes a well tuned bow . . . . etc, etc. However, I have never been able to do it! SO . . . every season I have to move my rest slightly from my foeld point setting to my field point setting.
I did switch to the two blade Magnus and was very satisfied. Very close to field points! I have heard the Crimson Talon's with their "Spin-Tite Airfoil Technology™" shoot dead on with field points. I will try some this season.

Otherwise, scratch your head and re-adjust your bow every year.

Well said Len

Slick tricks all the way..............

I got the slicks in the mail yesterday. You all make me wanna go out right now and KILL/HARVEST something!!

I agree with Len to a point , that being some bows just wont tune , especialy those with a cabel rod that sits far from the string

I have shot expandables, fixed blades, and field points all with the same accuracy. The only thing that I noticed is the fixed blades are affected some by strong windy conditions espicially beyond 20 yards.