crutch

Hello,

Question on how far broadhead should be past end of rest at full draw. I have been shooting a quick tune 1000. Just was wondering on these types of rest should you have the broadhead out passed your hand in case the arrow slips off?

The reason I ask... My arrow at full draw is about 3-1/2" passed the end of the rest prongs (not counting the broadhead). Its about 2" passed my hand. If I cut 2 inches off my arrows I would be 1-1/2" passed prongs and the BACK of broadhead would be even with the front of my hand still. I think this shorter length would help in speed and accuracy.

I shoot a High Country Carbon four runner. 28-1/2" draw length, 62 lbs draw weight, Carbon CX400 arrow, thunderhead 85grain broadheads, release,quicktune 1000 rest.

What could I expect by getting 2 inches cut off...yes, no,maybe so[&:]
Maybe I need a new rest
thanks guys.

waltwittman

you can shoot your arrow right up to the rest, but if you are having problems w/ the arrow falling off your rest or you think that it may and will hit your arm i would recommend staying w/ what you've got... i shoot mine right up to the rest and have had no problems along w/ others that i know.

nodog

Keep the head in front of your hand is the way I do it and recommend it to be. What do you think you'll gain? I can say it won't be much at all and not enough to benefit the use of needing less pins.

BobCo19-65

Personally, I'll never shoot an arrow with a fixed broadhead that isn't just past my knuckle on my bow arm.

ijimmy

With you specifications , Id say you would benifit greatly by cutting 2 inches off of your arrows , thouse arrows are underspined for your aplication at that length , shortining them 2"s would improve the situation greatly , allthough you may still be slightly underspined at 28 1/2 "s

crutch

Thanks guys,

I really haven't had any problems with the arrow falling off the rest. Thats why I was considering cutting two inches off. Just wanted to make sure I was going to benifit from doing so. The"Back" of the thunderhead will still be just past the knuckles at full draw.

ijimmiy, What arrow would you select for this set up so that the spine is correct? I have only shot the CX400 and seem to really like them.

Thanks for the help!!

gzg38b

WRONG! Those arrows are WAY OVER spined for that setup. Check Carbon Express arrow selection guide and run the numbers. He should be shooting CX200's, not CX400s. CX400's are some of the stiffest arrows CX makes. With a 62 pound bow and an 85 grain point you are already overspined and cutting 2" off would only make it WORSE.

You can shoot CX400's at 28" just fine - IF you are drawing 82 - 87 Pounds of adjusteddraw weight.

(go to www.carbonexpressarrows.com and download the arrow selection guide.)

nodog

Past the knuckle is the way I have them. Just as long as it's not going to cut you or grab a glove.

Paul L Mohr

You didn't say how long your arrows are, but from the sounds of it you are shooting full length arrows, or darn close to it. I show you being slightly stiff with that set up.

You have to keep in mind you are shooting a longer than needed arrow and you have to take that into account when using a chart or online calculator. Most have choices for shooting an overdraw (shorter than normal arrow) but not for shooting a longer arrow. They base your draw length off the arrow length, so if you give it a longer than normal arrow length they assume you have a longer draw length. And most arrow charts are crap anyway. There are way too many factors involved in picking an arrow spine than just arrow length and draw length.

You could cut your arrows to 28 inches and use a 125 grn tip. This would give you about the same spine, a little stiff. Plus it would give you more FOC. Wouldn't do much for your speed though. However you really wouldn't gain that much by cutting your arrows down anyway. Not enough that you would notice in my opinion.

Also another benifit is with carbon arrows the longer they are the worse tolerances they have. I full length carbon arrow will usually not meet specs because I believe they are measured at 28 inches. They will also be more prone to going bad sooner. Most serious shooter that use carbons cut material off both ends of the shaft since the ends of a full length carbon are not that great from what I understand. The only problem is if you did this you would most likely need to refletch your arrows.

I would suggest a CX300 at 28 inches with a 125 grn tip. They would spine very well and give you great FOC. Speed would be about the same as your current arrows.

I show the 200's being pretty weak at 28 inches even with a 85 grn tip. And unless you are shooting feathers the FOC will be pretty low as well. They would also be pretty light. In order to get the 200's to spine correctly you would need to shoot them at 24 inches.

This is based on the OnTarget2 software. The Carbon Express website does indeed list a 200 or 250 shaft. I would err on the side of the stiffer shaft if it were me. If know how fast your bow will shoot with a specific weight arrow and tell me what you have on your string I can be more accurate with the calculations. That way I can match the software to your exact set up. Chances are it will come out the same though, or close.

Paul

Paul L Mohr

Ok crutch I just read your PM and I think you are measuring your draw length wrong. I'm going to describe how to measure it and have you do it again for me. This will give us a good idea of what your actual draw length is. I'm not concerned right now with what your over all arrow length is, just your AMO draw length for that set up.

You can check your AMO draw length by drawing an arrow and having someone mark the arrow right above where your hand touches the grip. This is usually lined up with the hole you use to mount the rest. It's called the berger button hole. This is also the same place you would measure brace height from. With your arrow marked leave it on the string and put a tape measure under the arrow touching the string and measure to the mark. Add 1.75 inches this. That is your AMO draw length.

Your proper AMO arrow length is stated as 1 inch past where your arrows contact your rest. However this is assuming your rest is set up in the conventional spot. Most new drop a ways are not. The correct position for your rest would put the point where your arrow contacts your rest directly over your grip. The same point you should have marked your arrow at. Again it should be somewhere close to your berger butten hole. This is the most forgiving place for rest placement because it minimizes torque variances on the arrow at full draw. Most people shoot 1 or 2 inches of overdraw now. So your correct AMO arrow length should figure up to be 3/4 of inch less than your AMO draw length.

THIS is the length the charts and online calculators use. So if you don't have the correct arrow length it will throw them off because they think you have a different draw length since they never even ask for your actual draw length.

Sooo, once you figure this parameter out get back with me. A quick question, is your current rest set up the way I described above? You said it was a quicktune 1000, if I remember correctly this is a fairly simple prong rest, so it should be set up in this way. If it's not I suggest making it so.

I also need to know what your actual peak draw weight is right now. Not what the bow can go to, but what it's set at right now. And it would be great if you knew how fast it would shoot a specific weight arrow and what you have on the string like type of peep, brass nock/string loop.

If you can post a pic of the rest on the bow for me. If it's a big pain in the butt it's not that important really.

Good luck,
Paul