Bow Square Question
#11
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,413
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From:
FYI, This option doesn't work on single cam bows.
http://domino.htcomp.net/ragsdale.nsf/aac7d56ca8fd884b852563be00610639/1bc90d86d7a36b9f862569d2001ab9e3?OpenDocument
#12
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From:
Also download a copy of Easton's tuning guide at
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
There is a lot of good information in it.
277 fps is more than adequate for hunting.
http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/
There is a lot of good information in it.
277 fps is more than adequate for hunting.
#13
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
Likes: 0
[blockquote]quote:
ORIGINAL: Straightarrow
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
[/blockquote]
FYI, This option doesn't work on single cam bows.
ORIGINAL: Straightarrow
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
[/blockquote]
FYI, This option doesn't work on single cam bows.
Tiller affects the nock point location just as much on a single cam as it does on duals or hybrids. I got a single cambow 'set up' at a pro shop some years ago. It was shooting bulletholes in paper even though the nock was 3/4" BELOW square. I took it home, adjusted tiller properly, and afterwards it was shooting bulletholes with the nock perfectly square.
Pistol Pete, tiller refers to the bow, not to the arrows. It's the measurement taken from the belly side of the limbs at each end of the riser to the string. On a single cam bow, or any other bow where the top wheel is a different diameter than the bottom one, you have to stretch a string across both axles and measure to that.
For a starting point, the measurement should be the same on each end of the riser. Then, if you wish, you can fine tune the tiller to make the bow ride level in your hand during the draw and shot.
To do that, you hold the bow out and pull straight back on the string. Watch the sight. If it wants to pull up, you take a half turn off the top limb bolt or add a half turn to the bottom limb bolt, or both. If it wants to pull down, take a half turn off the bottom limb, add a half turn to the top limb, or both. Keep at it until the sight stays put as you draw the bow. It'll make the bow draw smoother, it'll have less recoil when you shoot,and hold it'll hold steadier as you aim.
Of course, you'll likely have to readjust your nock point afterwards.



[8D]
