Bow Square Question
09-27-2005 | 09:38 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,131
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From: Indiana
Bow Square Question
I bought and had my bow "setup" at Gander Mountain.
To my eye, it did not appear that the nock was in the right place. Seemed that my arrow "tilted" down slightly. I bought a bow square today to check.
Shouldn't the nock be just below "Zero"? Meaning the top of the nock should be flush with zero? See attach photo of it's current position.
To my eye, it did not appear that the nock was in the right place. Seemed that my arrow "tilted" down slightly. I bought a bow square today to check.
Shouldn't the nock be just below "Zero"? Meaning the top of the nock should be flush with zero? See attach photo of it's current position.
09-27-2005 | 09:47 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,131
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From: Indiana
RE: Bow Square Question
The top of the nock should be 1/8th above zero? Even at 1/8th, my nock is still too high, correct?
ORIGINAL: MOTOWNHONKEY
No sir it should be about a eighth high.
No sir it should be about a eighth high.
09-27-2005 | 10:05 PM
#4
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
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RE: Bow Square Question
It depends on the rest you are using, the type of release, the way your nocking system is set up, etc...
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
09-27-2005 | 10:11 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
RE: Bow Square Question
My rest is the QuikTune 360 rest and I use a mechanical release.
As for the nock......I didn't ask for it. It was already on the string when I bought the Diamond bow. My assumption is he left it there and put the loop around it.
Should I just remove the brass nock?
As for the nock......I didn't ask for it. It was already on the string when I bought the Diamond bow. My assumption is he left it there and put the loop around it.
Should I just remove the brass nock?
ORIGINAL: bigbulls
It depends on the rest you are using, the type of release, the way your nocking system is set up, etc...
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
It depends on the rest you are using, the type of release, the way your nocking system is set up, etc...
I set up single cams about 1/8th to 3/16ths nock high. This is a good starting point. With your nocking system, single nock below your arrows nock and inside a loop, the pulling force is slightly below the arrows nock and in my experiance this causes your arrows nock to need to be even a little bit higher than normal.
If you loose that brass nock you got in there, cause it is doing absolutely nothing but robbing you of speed, I bet you that your arrows nock will sit right where the brass nock was and it will shoot even better.
Why would you still want a brass nock if you are shooting with a loop?
Oh yeah, you should be measuring to where the center of the arrow is not to the top or bottom side of the arrow. So if the bottom of the square is touching the prongs then you are measuring it wrong and it should be moved up a bit. The center of the shaft sits above the prongs.
09-27-2005 | 10:18 PM
#6
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
Likes: 0
RE: Bow Square Question
Yes, I would remove the brass nock, shorten up the loop, cause it will get long when you remove the brass nock, and start about 1/8th nock high.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.
09-28-2005 | 04:40 AM
#7
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,413
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From:
RE: Bow Square Question
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
09-28-2005 | 03:44 PM
#9
Fork Horn
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Big Bend,WI
RE: Bow Square Question
ORIGINAL: Straightarrow
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
The only way to know where the correct knocking point should be, is to tune the bow. Bow tiller will affect it greatly. You can change the knocking point to wherever you want just by adjusting the tiller.
09-28-2005 | 09:53 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
RE: Bow Square Question
The nock is now gone. I haven't shortened the loop yet. Will tackle that another day.
Discovered a problem with the cable today....it's showing some wear. I posted a thread about it. "Diamond Victory Cable Wear!!"
I also used their (sp?) chronograph. It clocked my arrows at 277fps. Is that decent considering my arrows weigh between 420-450gr?
Discovered a problem with the cable today....it's showing some wear. I posted a thread about it. "Diamond Victory Cable Wear!!"
I also used their (sp?) chronograph. It clocked my arrows at 277fps. Is that decent considering my arrows weigh between 420-450gr?
ORIGINAL: bigbulls
Yes, I would remove the brass nock, shorten up the loop, cause it will get long when you remove the brass nock, and start about 1/8th nock high.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.
Yes, I would remove the brass nock, shorten up the loop, cause it will get long when you remove the brass nock, and start about 1/8th nock high.
You idealy want just enough loop so that there is a small ammount of space between your release jaws and the back of the arrows nock when you are all hooked up.