I know what it is, and I've looked on easton's bow tuning guide to find out how to do it, but I was wondering if anyone knew an easier way to find it.

set the bow on your leg and look down the string and line it up in the center of the riser then look down at your arrow,it should be in the center off the shaft.

One way to determine if you have the optimal centershot is to do the walkback method. Put up a small target at the top of the target butt and sight your bow in to hit the x on it. Then drop a plumb bob line down so that it lines up with the X on the target . This will give you a straight line up and down from the center line. Then step back to 30 yards and shoot an arrow still using your 20 yard sight . Then step back to 40 and shoot an arrow at the target still using your 20 yard sight. You go back as far as you can and still be hitting on the target butt. Then you look where the arrows landed in relation to the left or right of the plumb bob line. If the arrows track to the left of the string as you go back move your rest in small increments ,1/32 of an inch,to the right . Then go back to 20 yards and resight your bow to hit dead center again and proceed to do the walkback shots till your arrows are hitting in the same plane. You may have to do this several times till you get them hitting on the same plane but when they do you will have found the optimal center shot for the bow and arrow combination you are using.

Very good response.

Easy-Eye makes a lazer that will find center shot in less than a minute, costs $90 though...

That's about how I do it.

Eye-ball it with the riser like one person mentioned, and then use the walk back method described above to fine tune the centershot.

Centershot on a Mathews is 13/16 from riser(roughly)--good starting point.Just try moving your rest in small increments left or right.

Problem with eyeballing to the center of the riser is that very very few bows have the string in the center of the riser. It's always offset to the left (right handed bow) about 1/8". That's for the dynamic center. Of course then you have single cam bows that the string angles from left of center at the bottom cam to the center at the idler wheel.

Walkback method does work very well in almost all applications, though.

Can you first site your bow on the "X" with your 10 yard pin then move on to 20 and 30 yards still using your 10 yard pin or do you have to start at 20 yards? I didnt know if the distance of where you start made a difference or not. This is in reply to what archer 2 stated. Thanks.