GMMAT

I don't know the proper terminolgy (spelling)....but is it the "berger" holes?

Reason I ask is....I'm getting fletching contact (with my rest)at the position my arrow is in relation to these holes. It's admittedly minor....but my rest isn't allowed to drop completely out of the way. It's hitting the shelf and remaining in the path of the fletching.

If I raise the rest......it's goingto change everything. I'll need to re-set a nocking point....and that will bring my arrow above the holes. I also will, naturally, have to re-sight.....but I should, in theory, negate the rest/vane contact.

Correct?

Anything "special" about raising the horizontal plane of the arrow over these holes? Or....are they simply "a" guide?

Thanks.

brucelanthier

I use it more as a guide although there is probably a critical limit as far as how high you would want to go.

Just so we are speaking the same language, centershot refers to the center of the shelf or the left/right aspect of the shaft in relation to the riser. We are talking about nock heighth/level in this case.

mobow

Jeff, I think most bows generally like to be about 1/8" above center. Having said that, what rest are you using, and is there any way you can rotate the nock to keep the vanes from making contact?

GMMAT

OK. I'm with ya.....I was just saying center shot....because this is a part of the process. You are correct, though!

I'm using the QAD Ultra. And no.....I can't rotate the vanes any more than I have (currently with cock vane "out".....perpendicular to string) and not have "some" clearance issues. If I rotate it it differently than it is, now....I get contact with the cables.

The only thing I can think of is......raise the rest to allow it to fall completely out of the way. That, of course, will require me to re-set my nocking point......which will require me to re-set everything.

Am I on the right track?

YooperMike

Hey Jeff, I just went to Limb Driver from my QAD. I was having the same issues as you (exact issue) actually. I tried with it above the berger, but I had to go quite a ways, and it just didn't look right. I loved my QAD, but I am happy with the limb driver and no contact. The cables were a problem for me too, I wish there was perhaps a shorter cable slide to keep them closer to the cable guard, even like an 1/8" would make a difference I think.

brucelanthier

That is what I would do. I thought you were using feathers this year?

GMMAT

I was going toBruce....but I got an offer I couldn't refuse.....lol.

txjourneyman crested and fletched some arrows for me. They are awesome....and I'm gonna make 'em work.

I'll reset the nocking point and rest. I'll report back.

Mike I love the QAD....and didn't like (for me) the limbdriver. Different strokes....and I know a LOT of guys who swear by the LD.

Kanga

Jeff.

What cable slide are you using?

If it is the standard BT one then change it to a Hicks teflon slide that will give you more clearence and you should be then able to shoot cock vane up.

I usually set my nock height so the arrow is in the top 1/2 of the berger hole.

GMMAT

Yes it is the standard BT cable slide.

Can I get the one you mention from Lancaster? If so....(and bear with me....lol) will pulling my cables to the side (even as slight as this may be) effect the "level" of my arrow (raise or lower my nocking point)?

Carpmaster

I had the same issue with Blazers on my new Black Ice with a TT Shakey....I refletched with 4" QS and am barely squeaking by now...I will be picking up some 4" Helical feathers before season....