WBowhunt

I have been bowhunting and shooting archery for over 20 years now and will admit. I am slow to try new things. Once something works I just stick with it. For most of my shooting years I have shot fingers, but a couple years ago a friend convinced me to try a release ( Caliber jaw style ) I noticed a improvement in my groupings from the consistent release. So for the last few years ( about 4 ) I have been shooting this style release, but have always had an issue with punching the trigger. I have tried mentally to stop. But can not seem to beat it. I do OK for a while, but seem to end up right back into thie routine of jsut jammin' the trigger once I settle. It is not affecting my accuracy to the point where I a missing the target or Game, just not as conssitent as I would like to be. I have read allot about target panic and this issue. And one thing repeatidly mentioned, was using a release that uses back tension instead of a trigger. What I have not been able to figure out is how it works. I do not want to really sink $60 or more into a new release without understanding how it works. I have read the articles, but was hoping I could someone who uses it to put it in plain english.. Any advice would be appreciated.

Dens228

I can't comment on the back tension because I've never used that type of release. I also started using an index finger mechanical release a few years ago. This spring I switched to a handheld thumb release and shoot much better. Just another option for you.

Rack-attack

Plain english and back tension do not belong in the same sentence..............LOL

But I will try.........

The reason for a bt release is to take the firing mechanism out of the conscious mind. Our brains cannot do two conscious things at the same time - so if you can eleminate the fireing end and just focus on the aiming (holding) end - the game gets a bit easier.

The other aspect of a bt release is that the shot is a complete surprise. When you do not know when the shot is going to go off - you cannot anticipate it, you cannot flinch, dab,duck, punch and all the other fun things that happen with a trigger

The two major types of bt releases are the swivel and the thumb bar release.

The swivel (true backtension) release has no trigger - the release is fired as it rotates a cam around and into a dump - that fires it. The slow rotation that is used is caused by an increase in tension from your middle back muscles. This rotation is very small and when done correctly and repeatedly can become subconciuos.

The thumb bar release is fired in the same manner - but the release is rotated down into your thumb that is anchoring the bar - this rotation pushes the thumb bar down and the release fires. Its important to note that to fire this release correctly you do not push your thumb into the trigger - you rotate the release into your thumb.

There is a long learning curve to shoot these releases correctly - After 1.5 years of seriously shooting a hinge I can only now say that the release end of my sequence is truely subcinscious.

These releases are a great way to learn how to shoot well. they WILL teach you to hold and will show any form problems.

good luck

rick_reno

My groups got incredible improvement when I switched to a release vs. fingers about 6 yrs ago.

Len in Maryland

While the backtension method of shooting will most often improve one's skill level, does it apply to your type of shooting needs? I know ofsome tournament shooters who can properly utilize BT when hunting, but it is a HARD thing to master for tournament, let alone hunting.

And many think that it is strictly a release. It is not. Wrist releases can be used with BT style/form quite easily. Many think that BT releases can't be punched. They can.

As I stated in a thread concerning draw length, questions must be answered about the application before any advice can be properly given/applied.

I teach many of my customers back tension with their wrist/hunting releases. I also teach them form issues that, when coordinated with many other applicable issues, cuts down on target panic concerns and allows for various alternative shooting styles.

WBowhunt

Thanks for the feedback. I quess I have some thinking to do. As with anything in Archery and bowhunting. There is no easy answer.

Len In Maryland... As far as application. I have a few.... I shoot with friends all summer long. We some 3D shooting, but we do allot of games that require the shooter to pick a spot instead of just shooting at a bullseye. Games such as we Draw a Tic- tac toe board with either 3 or 4 in' squares and then take turns shooting the squares. First to get three in a row win's.. We have Drawn up a modified Cricket board ( As in Darts ) and play that or 301. I also get out to local farm and hunt ground hogs as much as I can. My version of stump shooting for yardage estimitation.. Plus the farmer likes getting rid of the ground hogs and I have land to hunt come season. Which is ultimately the bonus round to shooting a bow for me. ... So in a nut shell. My application is target, Fun 3D (no Competitions ) critter hunting and Whitetail.
I seem to have my biggest issue with my release in the target forum. I settle the pin and try to slowly squeeze the trigger. looking for the surprize. but as mentioned I don't think I can do two things at once well. I either get the suprize but am off on the target. Or I am inconsistently on the target, but punching the trigger.
Thanks again

nodog

I have found that using my second knuchkel instead of my first eliminates punching. It does take more strenghth to pull the bow because you don't use your trigger finger (the middle is used) behind the trigger to pull it so you aren't using the muscles in your arm connected to it to pull.

This is a good site.
http://bwarchery.ninjado.com/secrets.htm