The rifle shot well this weekend and am satisfied with it. I will be reloading my own cartriges in the near future. This is why I am asking for the list of equipment. A friend of mine is reloading for me now but I would wrather do it myself.

Just forget I asked, it seems that asking questions around here is just an invite for someone to grill you.

Vapodog, I couldnt agree more. So many more half inch groups live here than on the range. Heck, I cant get better than 2 inch group from a laying down position at 100 yards. I dont think its the ammo that keeps my groups spread out, it is me. Anyway, I am of the opinion that most rifles are pretty accureate and load recipie has a bunch to do with accureacy, but the shooter must get it close to start! EJ

Stone Cold - If your friend already reloads for you, and you are satisfied with how it shot this weekend, then talk with your friend about what equipment he uses to reload that ammunition for your rifle, and then duplicate the loads. I have read some books dedicated solely to bench rest shooting. I can't remember the last one, but it was titled "How the Benchresters Do It," or something like that. (for those out there that might have it, it is about 500 pages long, and kind of green/blue/black in color, soft bount). Anyway, that book is loaded with information that you would not be able to gather over the internet in a lifetime of trying. Handloader's Digest 18th Edition has an article dedicated to that also, "Are Benchrest Loading Techniques Worth the Trouble?" That article pretty much determined that it wasn't worth the effort for hunting grade ammunition.

Now, I ask you some more questions. And, don't get mad because I am, you started this thread, and people suggested some equipment that you would need, and you want us to "forget you asked," when we are trying to help you determine if it would be worth it for you to reload for "match grade ammunition."

So, here goes:
What is the primary intention of the rifle? What is your definition of"match grade?" The reason I ask - that Sendero will probably shoot 1" groups all day long every day with a handload that can be produced with an RCBS Rock-chucker kit, and a set of calipers and a Stoney-Point guage to get the bullet within, say .010" of the rifling. (heck, even .020" would probably work fine). So, do you plan to shoot matches with this rifle? Or do you just want a really accurate hunting rifle? Rockfish1 gave you a good list of equipment on top of a standard reloading kit that you would need to reload for maximum accuracy. But you have to really be wanting to spend the money. Also, if you are wanting to make a match rifle, you had best stick with match bullets, and plan to work up two loads if you want to use that gun for hunting also, which means twice the development, and twice the money in components, and twice the time involved. Now, you might get lucky, and get that RUM to shoot some 140 Nosler Partitions (a quality deer bullet in that cartridge, IMO), really good, and it will kill deer, but a 175 grain match bullet will be a very poor choice for deer at the velocities the RUM can produce!

Don't take all that the wrong way, but you asked, and I gave my opinion, and quite honestly, I know of some people that load for matches (USPSA 3 gun shoots, and single pistol shoots), and use nothing more that standard RCBS, Dillon (a little more expensive, but not overly priced), and other quality gear, without the REALLY fancy, smancy doo-dads that will get the neck of a chamber within .000001" of round, and do just fine!

Here's a listofequipmentI use. I hopethis is helpful to you. And BTW, in my earlier post I was assuming you were using the term "match gradehandload" as a manner of speaking to mean substantially better thannormal accuracy. You don't have the rifle to achieve true competitive match grade accuracy, butwith it you may be able to achieve a level of accuracy that's quite acceptable to you.It may (and probably will) require some more accuracy tweeks, though.

Here's what I use:

Press: Forster Co-Ax
Seating dies: Redding Competition Micrometer or Forster Ultra
Full length dies: Forster or Redding
Neck die: Lee Collet neck die
Primer pocket uniformer: Sinclair
Flash hole deburrer: Sinclair
Concentricity gauge: Sinclair
Neck turner and thickness gauge: K & M
Trimmer: Wilson
Case neck deburrer: Wilson
Scale: Redding No. 2 Master beam scale
Powder trickler: Redding
Calipers: Starrett
Priming tool: RCBS APS hand primer
Case Lube: Imperial wax (this isn't needed when using the Lee neck die)

*Note: Some dies (like the Redding Competition seater)for longer cartridges like yours may not work with the Forster Co-Ax press. So be advised.

There's probably something I left off. If I think of it I'll add it in another post later. I hope that sort of gives you an idea of what's involved as far as equipment is concerned. You can even buy better, but then you're getting into high dollar (and more obscure) equipment made for competitors and with the limitations of your rifle, I don't see how it could be worth it.

If you want to learn more about extreme accuracy I suggest you buy one of the books available from Sinclair Int'l.

Stone Cold, about special equipment you need for match grade reloads.... I would first start with some well made basic equipment and try some load combinations. You might be able to satisfy your accuracy requirements without spending too much money. Like a race car, the money and effort you spend getting better performance seems to increase exponentiallyas compared to the results.You could very quickly reach a point, even with solid, basic reloading equipment,where the gunis the limiting factor in your quest formatch grade ammo.

About what procedures makes match grade ammo.... compatibility and concistency.Only experimentationcan prove what combination of bullets, powder, primers, seating depth, etc. your rifle willshoot best.(It may help to set a goal for yourself, you could wear out a barrelor chamber before you tried all the possible combinations!)Of course when you find what works, being able to load consistently is the key to accurate ammo.

A good starting place for equipment is Sinclair International, andI have foundboth Sierra and Nosler to make some very accurate bullets.

OK, Guys,

My comment above has nothing to do with your comments or this thread. I posted another thread about my day of shooting and it seems that I was grilled and basically called a liar just because of my shooting capabilities. These few guys upset me enough to the point of not wanting to ask for any more help. If you want to see what I was talking about go to my other thread.

Thanks and sorry for the generalized statement.

Charlie Brown,

The gun is now being used for hunting and shooting at the range. I wanted a match grade hunting load or at least the closest I could get. My current shooting club is installing a 600 and a 1000 yard range and I would like to shoot on these ranges also with this rifle basically to see what it would do. If I decide to shoot matches in the future I will most probably have a custom rifle built.

Thanks

In that case then, get a standard reloading set, duplicate the loads your friend loads for you, and go shooting. It is not likely that you will be taking 600 or 1000 yard shots at a live game animal, so you aren't going to NEED that much accuracy. Punching paper is a lot different than shooting at a live game animal, and ethics, morals, and respect for the animals come into play. Heck, I even shoot my .223 at 500 yards at sillouettes, for the fun of it. And thats with an out of the box H&R