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Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

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Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

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Old 05-12-2003, 11:13 PM
  #1  
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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Default Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

I have been haveing a time trying to get my arrows to fly consistantley at 50 yards. I am useing a platinum premier rest and a conquest pro by Mathews. The arrows I have been tring are the goldtip 3d pro.3555 at 28" with a 80 grn tip 3" fletch. I have tried every thing. I started with the arrow set pefectley to the string and perfecley level to the knocking point. I have paper shot it and adjusted the paper tere to be slightly high1/4 to 1/2 inch. This is what I read in tuning and shooting your 3-d bow by Larry Wise. I have even tried different weighted feild points with no avail. I have even adjusted the rest from left to right and back again to see if this would help the groups. I have changed my set up because I have been drawing at 70lbs and wanted to try to back off a little and go to a lighter arrow. the set up I had worked fine and I got good groups with it. Im talking grape fruit size groups at fifty( I know thats not as good as you guys shoot but good enough for me). The problem is Im no a kid any more and get tired pulling 70 lbs after 40 or so rounds. should I go with a different arrow ? or should I try adjusting the weight till the groups come back ? I am pulling around 60 to 65 pounds now. any suggestions are appriciated thanks again for your help. PS if you have a suggestion on a good arrow set up that will work with what I am trying to do I would appriciate that too. THANKS A LOT!
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Old 05-13-2003, 06:49 AM
  #2  
Fork Horn
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Woodhaven, Mi USA
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Default RE: Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

As a quick guess, you are wwwaaaayyyy under spined. Without knowing your draw length or you speed for this arrow, as I ran your info thru Archers Advantage program and you would have to have a draw length of about 20" for this arrow to work. As a reference my son shot his conquest last year with a 29" draw, 63# with a gold tip 5575 at 27" with an 85 grain tip to get spined correctly.
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Old 05-13-2003, 07:57 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ionia Mi USA
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Default RE: Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

Buckeye, IMN23D hit it on the head. I shot that arrow last year and with a 30" draw I had to shoot 57# with a 50 grain PDP point for total arrow weight of 285 grains. This was with my old Clearwater. The lighter tip will add a little to your spine stiffnes.

Good luck.

PE3D
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Old 05-13-2003, 08:57 AM
  #4  
Fork Horn
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: ashland ohio USA
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Default RE: Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

After you have tried everthing, find somebody with a hooter shooter. This will make sure that its not the bow or setup. Trying a stiffer spin arrow should help but also take a look at your limb pockets! Remove your limbs and see how tight the pockets are to the riser? Then shim them so there is no slop. This should help tighten up your group down range. Check your timming on your cam (YES SOLO' S NEED TIMMED) ask your pro shop or call Mathews about the timming proceedure. Good luck and GOD BLESS!!
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Old 05-13-2003, 10:54 PM
  #5  
Giant Nontypical
 
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Default RE: Need some suggestions from the pro' s bow arrow tuining

I agree with the others that the spine is most likely the problem but I would like to add a little something.


When shooting real light arrows at longer distances(above 40 yards imo).Fletching is real critical.A light arrow does not liked to be slowed down too fast.It becomes unstable and groups start to open up as a result.3" vanes may be slowing the arrow down just a little too fast and causing some problems but the case here is most likely spine.When you get your poundage right or get the right arrows,try to use some 1.75 vanes.This may help.I also prefer an foc above 10% with carbon for longer shots.Provided it will still allow the spine to be correct.



I know most are thinking this is a load of crap but it is in the Easton tuning guide.

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