Glass Bedding.
08-30-2009, 07:37 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,600
You have to remove the screw before you set the barreled action down in the bedding compound, just the same as you would remove the action screws from any other gun. Rugers are indeed a little more difficult to work with than Rems, Win. and standard Mauser actions, but once you have done one or two, you will get the hang of it. The front screw length (the one that screws into the recoil lug) is 1.180" in overall length on the long tang 77's I've done. The action beds solidly on the flat behind the recoil lug and the rear tang area. Clearance is best achieved, I've found, by using a Dremel tool on the hardened bedding at the sides, in front of, and beneath the lug after the barreled action is removed.
I place the glassing material in the prepared stock and gently set the barreled action into postion. I then install the front and rear action screws with trigger guard and floorplate assy boss with the floorplate removed and tighten until I feel light resistance. This is when the front screw goes into position in the lug. Yeah, it's a little messy, and you sure best have plenty of release agent on the guard screws and in their receiving holes in the action, but it works and works well.
08-30-2009, 07:55 AM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,600
If you use a long headless screw in the action, and have weight on the top of the action to push the action down into the bedding, you do not use the floorplate in the bedding process. When the bedding sets up, you remove the screw with pliers before removing the action from the bedding. After cleaning up the action, the floorplate will fit using the normal screw through the hole in the bedding that the headless screw created in the bedding.
This way you don't use the any screws to pull the action. About 10 pounds of weight on top of the action pushes the action into place without uneven stress that can happen if the screws are tightened too much. I only use screws to pull the action down if I am putting in aluminum pillars.
This way you don't use the any screws to pull the action. About 10 pounds of weight on top of the action pushes the action into place without uneven stress that can happen if the screws are tightened too much. I only use screws to pull the action down if I am putting in aluminum pillars.
IT just occurred that you and I are talking about using two different methods here.....you are talking about using straight pin screws when bedding, and I have been talking about using stockmaker screws or the factory guard screws. You are correct in the fact that using your method will not work on the Rugers, but my method works well on them. Hope this clarifies it better, at least for me.....
08-30-2009, 09:35 AM
#15
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: S.W. Pa.-- Heart in North Central Pa. mountains-
Posts: 2,600
.......Yeah....Sometimes I read too quickly and miss a point. It's just that easy to do. As we've both agreed on, Rugers are a bit of a bear to do right. As for the floorplate, if you remove the hingepin connecting the plate to the anchoring boss the front guard screw goes thru and get that swinging plate out of the road, it does make things a bit easier...Good luck with the African. I don't envy you the job, but I'm sure it will get done just fine. One other thing I do is after removing whatever you used to align the front and rear guard screws with the action, be it the long headless method you like, or the stockmaker screw method I normally use, I drill out the screw holes in the stock that had the bedding compound around them so the action screws have clearance around them and don't bind...
01-18-2010, 04:03 PM
#17
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 240
You should really find a friend that has done it before and have him help you with the first one you do. On a Savage you'll need to put modeler’s clay in the grooves of the barrel nut or you will not ever get the barreled action out of the stock. The only tape I use on the barrel is towards the end of the stock to keep the barrel aligned in the barrel channel. I also like to use brownells release agent, some people have said Pam works well but I would stay away from WD-40. There is no reason to bed the trigger guard. This has no effect on accuracy. Also you want to get a dremmel tool or something like that and open up the area where the recoil lug is, mostly an area towards the butt end of the stock. I too have heard of people putting masking tape on the bottom, sides and front of the recoil lug. Personally I put two layers on the bottom of the lug and that’s it. The reason for that is in the event a little dirt gets in there this will give you a little clearance.
01-18-2010, 07:26 PM
#18
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: NY METRO AREA
Posts: 294
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthr...vy#Post3003214
Best description of a ruger bedding job I have seen. hope it helps.
Best description of a ruger bedding job I have seen. hope it helps.
