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Glass Bedding.

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Glass Bedding.

Old 08-28-2009, 04:17 PM
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Default Glass Bedding.

What kind of material is best to wrap the barrel with when you set it into the bedding? I read tape but what kind of tape? I dont want to screw up the barrel. Masking tape? Will the sticky come off on the barrel?
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Old 08-29-2009, 04:47 AM
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:20 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I know my questions are elementary. I have read that I should put release agent all over the gun and action. I also read that I may want to practice with silly putty as my epoxy untill I get it down right and then use JB Weld or the epoxy that is included with the bedding kit when im ready. Is one better than the other? I guess I need to bed the trigger gaurd as well. Also, I know to ruff up the area where the bedding will go but do I need to remove any wood from the stock? How thick should the layer of bedding be? I am assuming that the barrel will be a tad higher and this will also lift the trigger since its attached to the barrel......so will this effect the trigger pull or finger placement? Sorry for all the questions, I figure that what I can learn by asking, the less I have to learn the hard way.
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:56 PM
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Old 08-29-2009, 04:10 PM
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I am going to practice on an old JC Higgins .22 then, my buddy has an old Savage in 30.06 that he said I could practice on untill I get good enough to bed both my Rem. 700s. One is 30.06 BDL and the other 22-250 SPS. The 30.06 has a wood stock. The stock is nice and pretty so I wanted to get a composite stock for it and bed it. The 22-250 already has a composite stock. What about the silly putty to practice with?
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Old 08-29-2009, 05:07 PM
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I would think that painter's tape with release agent would work fine, and should leave little to no residue when removes. If you do get residue, try either WD-40 or Goo Gone. Just be generous with the release agent so you don't glue your action into the stock.

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Old 08-29-2009, 05:46 PM
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Old 08-29-2009, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Duval View Post
I have never heard of anyone practicing. It is really a straight forward process that is easier to do than to explain. One thing that I like to do with rifles that have action screws that are attached 90 degrees (straight down) from the action is to get bolts with the appropriate screw threads from the local hardware store, cut the heads of the bolts off, and insert them into the action before bedding. This makes life easy for the bedding process because you can insert the action into the stock with the bolts already attached and simply put weight on top of the action to keep it in place until the bedding sets up. If you can do this, you will get a stress free bedding job and will not have to dig a small ball of epoxy out of the hole in the action when you are finished. If you don't do this, you have to run the action screw up through the epoxy to pull the action down into the stock until the bedding sets up (what a pain). This will not work on a Ruger with it's angled action screw, but it will work beautifully on your Remingtons.

Actally, it will work on a Ruger. I've done lots of them that way. As far as tape on the barrel, I have used black plastic electrical tape for years. I usually put 3-4 layers of tape on the barrel. And don't forget to cut clearance in the stock at the sides, bottom and the front of the recoil lug as well. You need the extra clearance because you need to tape off the sides, bottom and front of the recoil lug. When you remove the barreled action from the bedded stock, the back of the recoil lug is the only part of it you want in contact with the stock. Personally, I perfer to use stockmaker's screws available from Brownell's and probably Midway as well. It saves a lot of wear and tear on the actual action screws and they are one heck of a lot easier to remove after the bedding has hardened. They also help pull the barreled action firmly in place, and push the excess bedding compound up and out of the way. Don't forget to tape off the entire stock to back past the pistol grip with masking tape, and coat it with paste wax. It's amazing where the compound can run to. Tape everything you don't want the compound in and on, because once it sets, it's gonna be hard to get it off or out of. Remember to coat your trigger guard/floorplate assy. with release agent well also. It's also much easier to do this job with the trigger assy. removed, which isn't that big of a deal.

Last edited by Pawildman; 08-29-2009 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Added information
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:54 AM
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:19 AM
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